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Chase H.Q. DX Restoration

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Kaizen088 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Kaizen088 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Chase H.Q. DX Restoration
    Posted: 29 Apr 2017 at 5:30am
This cab is going to be a long term restoration, what I'd like to do with this thread (if permissible) is keep updating this first post and add relevant quotes from other members as I go.
I think it will make it much easier to follow.

So here it is, my Chase H.Q. DX, I had played Chase H.Q. on console and in arcades etc a bit as a kid and had always wanted to own a cockpit cabinet.
When I saw this for sale I jumped on it, it had been up for sale for at least a month and a few people passed on it for obvious reasons...
I knew I would have my work cut out for me and even just getting it home on my own was a huge task in itself.

I bought this cab off another Aussie Arcade Forum member in July 2015.


As soon as I got it home I set about stripping the base section apart.








By 3am the job was done.




Back up at 9am and into it, a quick trip to Bunnings with a sample piece to match the base colour as best I could to a Spraypak can and grabbed some sandpaper.


The moving section that the car mounts on has been painted top and bottom, I pretty happy with the colour.





The base has been straightened as best as possible and painted underneath, I'll get the top side of it done tomorrow.




The wiring looms and nylon slides have been refitted and ready for the motor assemblies to be refitted after I reco them later this week.




So far I've spent over 24 hours labour on it, I've set a goal of having it completed within two months but want to have the hardware side of it done in two weeks.


Before and after of the underside of the base.

A little bit of progress was made on the base today, it's hard to get much done with an hour of daylight. 
It's had a re spray at some stage so there was twice as much paint to remove on the top side.
I'll take it back to metal, prime and fill and apply 3 full coats of paint. 


The piece that the coin mech sits on is missing on the other side, I'll have to get a new one fabricated.



Job done.
Prime and fill then paint in a couple of days.
I manged to find some spare time late last night so I set about swapping all the ROMs from the original board that was corroded to another Chase HQ DX board that had standard ROMs in it.
Once cleaned and reassembled I plugged it in and it fired up the video is fine but there's no sound.
I've double checked the pinout which I believe is correct and tested the speaker at the board so I'll have to do a bit more investigating.


I finished prepping the top of the base.
The tube and chassis have been cleaned and I'll get to testing that as well.

August 2015

Not a lot of progress this week with short days and cold weather.
I primed and painted the base section today and started refitting some of the parts.




All going well I should be ready to plug in and test the whole thing next weekend.

I finished work early and got in a solid 6 hours work on the cab.
There was a heap of small jobs that needed doing like removing broken bolts, replacing rusted bolts, wiring repairs etc.
You gotta love the quality crimp job done with bull nose pliers.


Wires have now been soldered. 








Both halves of the base section are now together. 

I'll now turn my attention to the rest of the wiring harness, power supply and PCB's etc.
I tested the PCB the other night so it went back in its cage and installed in place.


The wiring on the top has been sorted with all boards cleaned, installed and connected.


A new 50 pin ribbon cable made up.
There were a few cut wires that needed repairing and the 12v regulator board for the motor controller driver board had to be rewired and mounted.

The monitor and control panel fitted.



The original speaker was rotted so I fitted a used speaker from a cab I parted out.




With the cab top section completed I started to look at how I could lift the top section on and off without needing top bug other people to give me a hand to lift it.
I decided to sling the front from the overhead support beam using ratchet straps and rest the rear on a table frame which sits just above the base section.



I still need to straighten the pins for the rollers (above right).

Well after putting 30 hours into this thing since Friday afternoon I finally got to the stage where all wiring had been checked and repaired where necessary. All wiring checked again.
I switched the power on and BAM!


The next big challenge was getting the Taito Drive Logic CPU working with the two DC ALM Motor Controllers, the brake release switches are working and the boards seem to be working/powering up.
I'll get to work on it once I've sorted out the broken rod ends and ball joints that connect the car to the base section.

I spent the last 10 hours troubleshooting the Motor fault.
First I started by tracing the 40v drive motor power supply and all checked okay (44.4v) where it should be so I turned my attention to the servo motor driver boards.
The horizontal board 5A fuse had blown but the Vertical (15A) wasn't blown when I picked up the cab, my guess is that this was the original fault that caused the cab stop a decade ago.
When I first powered the cab up it blew both fuses on the 40v supply on each servo board.
With brake released on the vertical motor it took a little force to turn it by hand, once it started moving it freed up instantly so I'm hoping that the seized motor was all that was causing the 15A fuse to blow, it's common for the brake friction plates to hold when not used and or been wet.
Focusing on the Horizontal board I checked the MOSFET Transistors as these often blow on Electric Forklifts (similar electrics).
One of the MOSFET's was shorted between S & G, I removed it from the board and confirmed it was faulty.
Altronics have them so I'll see if they're open tomorrow/today (Ekka Show Public Holiday).
This would definitely have blown the fuse so I'll replace all 4 on the board and retest.
I've ordered some replacement opto's from RS so they'll arrive in the next day or so as well.
I'm pretty happy with the progress being made, I've now logged over 50 hours labour on the beast.
It'll be well worth the effort to get it fully working.

I just picked up the 4 new MOSFET Transistors for the Horizontal Servo Motor Controller, I'll fit them shortly.
I also found these home security LED strobes in red and blue so I grabbed a pair of these. They light up when you have caught up to the bad guys car in the game.
One new MOSFET installed and the fuse for the Horizontal Servo Motor is no longer blowing. 
I removed the Vertical Servo Motor and the motor and brake tested okay.
I'm still waiting on the opto's to arrive, hopefully they are causing the Stop Error.
I had a quick game and and tested the strobe light output, the lights start flashing when you catch up to the bad guy so that's another win.
I've ordered 4 new 40107 ICs for the motor driver boards whic are ready for pick up tomorrow. 
I'll replace the one I think is suspect on Saturday and see how it goes.
The rest will also be replaced for peace of mind.
I picked up the new CD40107 chips this afternoon and replaced the two on the vertical motor driver board. 



Plugged it in an the fuse no longer blows and the motor runs at top speed in one direction, when you pass a piece of card through the top opto pickup the motor slows.

I can't run it with the drive belt connected until I get a new ball joint to connect the plywood body to the motion table.


I'll pick that up on Tuesday.

I had a visit from     [MENTION=3]Berty[/MENTION] on the weekend which motivated me to get back to work on this project. I decided to blanket change all the IC's and surprisingly nearly all were avaliable fron Jaycar. So I go into the Jaycar store at Woolongabba and get served by the 'Assistant Store Manager'. I give him a list of the IC's I needed, eg. (4x4011 8x4049 etc) and he goes "These aren't our part numbers.." I say to him "No..those are the parts, you'll have to do your job and look up the part numbers." as he's looking them up he says "Hex buffer...whatever that is..." and this is the guy that is managing the store??
Anyways.. rant over.
So I carefully extracted all the IC's on the vertical driver board last night.


I soldered the new sockets in tonight and fitted the new IC's.


Then went downstairs and plugged the boads back in, switched it on (no smoke), and the vertical motor spins as part of the self test. Woohoo!!
One step closer, I'll do the horizontal driver board tomorrow and test that side of it. 
It can't complete the self test without all the opto sensors which are on their 40 day journey from China (I knew I should have paid the $260 freight to get them here within a week). Hopefully I can get this behemoth up and running soon.  :D

Still having issues...

I found a spare Chase HQ PCB on Highway's website that has a DX top board with the extra chips for the motor drivers.
It was sold as not working and plugged it in and got a Ram error. 
The original game board still works but its good just to have a spare board.

April 2016

I last looked at this six months ago and have made little progress since.
I had limited tech gear and limited board repair skills.
A lot has changed in the last couple of months and I feel I have the necessary skills and equipment to bring this classic piece of history back to it's former glory.

Armed with my two new programmers I decided to dump the ROMs as the two unique DX ROMs haven't been dumped into MAME yet.

I spent the whole night (gave up around 3am) investigating each board, reading and verifying as many ROMs as I could and working out which goes where and with what set.
I have two DX boards with Japanese Audio, one that was a DX but was converted back to Upright (this is the one I bought in the post above).
The original PCB is a write off with severe track rot.
The other is an Upright PCB and has the English ROM set, it's in the best condition out of all of them.
I plan to get it fully working as a UP PCB with the chasehqj ROM set then swap the DX ROM and add the extra components once it's working correctly.

The DX PCB Label number is K9100187A.

The Upright Label is K1100375A.

All boards are exactly the same and have the same part number under the label.
The only differences I could find at this stage is that B52-128 at IC29 is not in either the English or Japanese MAME set and there is the addition of the four TTLs, three resistor arrays and a 50 pin ribbon cable connector.
The Motor Controller CPU board also has a ROM on it at IC18, I dumped it and will upload the files later.

I gathered the two Japanese ROM sets and fitted the to the two PCBs.

If I set Dipswitch A bits 1 & 2 on the game will try to check the motor controllers and CPU PCB (they've been left off for the moment).

This Eeprom went into the board with the 50 pin Ribbon Connector.



One board was working when tested  a month or two ago and it booted up and ran okay, a small glitch in the title screen where it says CHASE H.Q. but that can wait until later.
I plugged the other board in and  got a red background and 'Color Ram Error'.
A quick google search suggested that the TMM2063's at [2] and [3] have been failing quite a lot and cause the 'Color Ram Error", thank you   [MENTION=1983]Womble[/MENTION].
My original PCB from the cab had Fujitsu MB8464A-80L-SK chips in it, the board had severe track rot so I decided it will give it's life up and become a chip transplant donor. Dead
At least a part of it can still live on in the cab... 
So I cleanly removed the chip at [2], fitted a socket and replaced it with one from the donor board.
It made no difference so I replaced the one at [22] and  when I powered the board back up I got a mustard coloured background and the same 'Color Ram Error'.
I planned to replace all four rams with sockets anyway as they seem to fail quite a bit.
I socketed [3] and [23] and put another two donor Fujitsu rams in place.
The PCB now passed the Color Ram part of the self test but then came up with 'Could be MPU Ram' then booted into the game.
The colours are wrong in certain places, lines across the screen instead of characters, you can see the car and there are some blanking issues however it does coin up and run...
I swapped layers across and determined that the MPU Ram issue is on the top board and the blanking issue is related to the bottom board (just a guess using logic).
I've only just pulled the schematics out and have started to get familiar with it.
I found the pinout for the 50 pin ribbon connector which is a major step forward in working out what I should be getting between the Game PCB and Motor Controller CPU PCB.


I'm guessing the pins M1-M19 are address and data lines, left side is all grounds except for M-A, that just leaves pins M20-M21-M22-M24.
I've had a look at the 50 Pin Connector with the Logic Probe and tabled the results in the pic below.
The board was set to DX (DIP-A Bits 1 & 2 ON) and bit 3 ON for Self Test Mode.
The Motor Controller CPU PCB was not connected.
The 'DIP Switch Initial Error' was expected as the ribbon cable was disconnected.
I wanted to establish what the Game PCB was doing during self test first.



Here's a video of it running the Self Test with the settings above.



From the results I'm fairly confident that there are no issues on the outward communication between the Game PCB and Motor Controller PCB.

I've been doing a bit of research on how the motor controller system works on the Chase HQ DX cab and noticed a common occurance through the Taito Diver cab range starting from TOP Speed.
For the DX version of Chase HQ the are some components that need to be fitted for it to work in a DX cabinet.
There are four TTL's, a 50 pin Ribbon Cable Connector, three Resistor Blocks and I believe it needs a unique ROM as well (yet to be confirmed).
The Top Speed DX cabinet is exactly the same as Chase HQ which it preceded so it's more than likely that they converted a lot of Top Speed DX cabs to Chase HQ as there is not a single picture of a Top Speed/Full Throttle DX except for the flyer.
I wanted to see if I could run the PCB from my Top Speed Upright in the Chase HQ DX cab.
While looking at the similarities of the boards I also noticed a few more Taito Driver games missing similar components.
They include Chase HQ SCI, Super Chase, Air Inferno and Night Striker...probably a few more as well.

What I've noticed is that they all seem to have the same options on the PCB to add the 50 pin ribbon cable connector and the four TTLs etc.

I'm hoping to be lucky enough to find one of these that has some more info on the DX version that what is available for Chase HQ.
The schematics on some of these boards have sections referring to the Motor Address and Data lines etc which is almost identical to the Chase HQ schematic.
Does anyone has any info/experience relating to any of these games(especially cockpit and DX versions). 
What I'm most interested in is finding images or schematics of the motor controller PCB's connected to the 50 pin ribbon cable connector.


Super Chase:



Night Striker:



SCI:



TopSpeed/Full Throttle:



Air Inferno:


I removed all the opto's form the accelerator(3), brake (3), vertical axis position [T] (3) verical axis speed/direction (2), horizontal axis position [Y] (3) and horizontal axisspeed/direction, a total of 16 opto's are required.
I had three different types of opto interrupter, the factory ones are P1200, two 542N's I was given that I was told would work in the cab, then there's the stack of SX4009-P1 that I bought from RS Components which were supposed to cross reference.

I needed to confirm each opto's pinout was the same and that they were working correctly so I pulled a 4 pin CD ROM audio connector from an old PC and wired it up at a 4.5vDC battery pack and my logic probe.
I tied the two end wires together [V], coneected them to B+ and assigned the black one [G] to ground and the yellow one [O] goes to the output (logic probe tip).
This gave me a pinout of V-G-O-V or if you flipped it you got V-O-G-V.

I can now easily plug in any configuration opto and test it.
Though the three different types I have look the same the are all different.
The original factory one will output high when the is no interruption and drop low when a card is passed through the sensors.
The N542's have a different pinout but work in the same manner.
I found with the SX4009-P1 the voltage dropped to a percentage of Vcc.
I doubled the input voltage to 9v and that doubled the output.
They don't work with the Chase HQ cab.

Testing of the P1200's



Testing the N542's


So after testing I end up with 15 usable tested and working opto's out of the 16 required.
There was one that had sustained impact damage and was giving no output when tested, I gave it a little twist and it gave an output so I decided to try to repair it rather than wait weeks for a replacement to come.



There was at least two broken tracks and a possible third.


When you look at the top side of the PCB you can see it has been bent near the middle and came close to snapping.


I removed some mask to expose the copper trace, laid a cut lead down from a trimmed component and soldered it over the break in the track.
The one near the resistor was fixed by building a solder bridge between it and a neighboring component on the same track.
Everything was reflowed and reassembled.


It tested fine so now I have 16 confirmed working opto's refitted back in the cab.

With the opto's now confirmed working I turned my attention to this sensor that is located on the right rear corner of the cab and it's mounted to an extension plate.
I'm missing the extension plate on the left hand side and from what I can work out there should be one on each corner on the left hand side as well.
There doesn't seem to be on on the right front side.





I've Googled these and came up with enough info to tell me what they are but that's about it.
From what I understand they are 'Dark State' and don't need a reflector.




I traced all the sensor wiring and it looks like there should be four Projectors and four Detectors.
They are a paired unit so it originally had four EX3-M3D's and four EX3-M3P's.
The wiring has eight lines of 12v supply and four (outputs from the Detectors) inputs to the Drive Logic CPU PCB.

The output is LO in normal state (-2.8mv).


When the beam is interrupted it goes to a HI (4.08 volts).



Simply this means I just tie them all low and the CPU should think all is good.
I'll check the resistance to ground through the Detector (and add a resistor between the output line and ground if needed) when in the on state.
I'll also check whether I need to tie the signals to ground through something similar to a POR or just hard wire them directly to ground?

I don't like my chances of these popping up on Ebay, I already searched with no luck, no luck on Yahoo Japan either.
They were discontinued in 2001.
The cab will be used at home so I don't see the need to have to source them, I'll just tie the four input lines to ground.

I spent around 50 hours on it this long weekend, I feel I'm very close to getting the motion working.
I've separated the pieces and laid the plywood section that the PCB's go in over a table frame that I can move around if needed.




I removed the black moving section on top as there's nothing needed on it to test the motion, it'll get stripped back and repainted before going back on.

The wiring is now all laid out so there is easy access to all connectors, motors and switches.
One of the biggest challenges I faced when testing was not being able to quickly move around the cab to take voltage, continuity and logic measurements etc.

I also added 250W of fluorescent lighting overhead so I could see what I'm doing.


My Chase HQ originally had an 8700 barrel fitted to the coin box turret.


It's still able to be rebuilt and I wanted to keep it with the cab so I was hoping to find a key or get a copy made if I can.





Edited by Kaizen088 - 03 May 2017 at 4:54am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fire10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 1:28pm
WOW WOW WOW Great job mate
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kaizen088 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2017 at 10:35am
Originally posted by fire10 fire10 wrote:

WOW WOW WOW Great job mate

Cheers mate, this cab had been neglected for a long time and there are so many little wiring and tidy up jobs that need to be completed before I can continue with testing the motor controllers.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2017 at 8:17pm
Yeah! great stuff! Clap


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Parts WTD: Any Dino King / LnB / MushiKing Spare Parts!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kaizen088 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 11:41am
Great news... I have managed to locate the original Taito Service Instructions and Parts Catalog for the DX Version of Top Speed.
It has all the info on the motors and sensors.
I should see it around Wednesday next week.
I'll leave the motor controller side of things until then and do a bit more on the restoration of the controls and hardware.
The monitor chassis has died, the flyback is on it's way out.
it's an MS7-20L and can't be repaired, I have it running through an LCD at the moment while testing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bods Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 1:22pm
Originally posted by Kaizen088 Kaizen088 wrote:


Great news... I have managed to locate the original Taito Service Instructions and Parts Catalog for the DX Version of Top Speed.
It has all the info on the motors and sensors.
I should see it around Wednesday next week.
I'll leave the motor controller side of things until then and do a bit more on the restoration of the controls and hardware.
The monitor chassis has died, the flyback is on it's way out.
it's an MS7-20L and can't be repaired, I have it running through an LCD at the moment while testing.


Awesome did you get from we know who

Another question for you on this cab, Pedals? Switches, pots or Optical?

Can't remember now what sort of pedals the Top Speed upright machine had, but the Steering wheel was cheapo Optical one compared to the Chase HQ cabs which are more complex design with the 2 different degree of wheel turn options

The Upright Chase HQ only has Accelerator Pedal, most Taito Drivers are the same, the Cockpits usually have Brake added as well but when I got mine I was shocked to find the Pedals are only Switches and not Pots like Sega and Atari

Now the Continental Circus is same on the upright, one pedal and Switch but the Cockpit has 2 pedals but they are Optical, not like the wheel though, there like a 2 or 3 stage variable sort of setup I think. Which makes me wonder how you get the right acceleration on Circus as if you get it right you whizz off faster than all the other cars

So wondered if they had done anything interesting with the pedals in this or are they just Switch ones too
WANTED! Buggy Boy Junior Rear Seat. Continental Circus Cockpit Lower Rear Light Plexi and more space
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kaizen088 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 2:11pm
Originally posted by Bods Bods wrote:



Awesome  did you get from we know who 

Another question for you on this cab, Pedals? Switches, pots or Optical?

Can't remember now what sort of pedals the Top Speed upright machine had, but the Steering wheel was cheapo Optical one compared to the Chase HQ cabs which are more complex design with the 2 different degree of wheel turn options

So wondered if they had done anything interesting with the pedals in this or are they just Switch ones too


No it was from a guy here in Australia, I was talking to him about another matter and I though it wouldn't hurt to ask if he had one for a Chase HQ, he said no and I thought well what about Top Speed.
I was blown away when he said yes and it has all the motion schematics.
I don't think there ever was a manual for Chase HQ that included the motion schematics.
Chase HQ was more than likely a conversion of Top Speed/Full Throttle cabs already in service and possibly retro fitting of remaining unit at the factory.

Here's a pic of the front page of the manual...

How cool is that!!




The DX cab has Accelerator and Brake pedals.
Each one has three optos.
I was going to have a look at my Top Speed cab on the weekend so I;ll have a look and compare.
My Top Speed was A Licensed version by a company called AGI, a bit like the Electrocoin Full Throttle.



Edited by Kaizen088 - 05 May 2017 at 2:22pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bods Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 12:42pm
Ah right, that's cool then

I'll see if I can get the other one then

That's interesting with the pedals. did wonder with this Conti Circus having Opto, they do go to town more on the sitdown ones

The other odd differences on my cabs

Chase HQ sitdown has only one speaker in middle of roof, has it's own door on top to access and the police lights, which aren't red/blue there both red, the upright even had 2 speakers as far as I know

Conti Circus has 4 Channel sound so when the cars overtake the sound moves from front to back which is great touch

Edited by Bods - 09 May 2017 at 12:46pm
WANTED! Buggy Boy Junior Rear Seat. Continental Circus Cockpit Lower Rear Light Plexi and more space
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bods Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 12:49pm
Ah yeah I just spotted picture of the pedals, so must be same setup as Circus

I see you have a speaker underneath monitor too, so is it the 3 speakers total?
WANTED! Buggy Boy Junior Rear Seat. Continental Circus Cockpit Lower Rear Light Plexi and more space
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dj_yt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 2:00pm
I don't have any useful information to add to the thread, but just wanted to chime and say - loving your work on this!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seanr28 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 2:37pm
awsome work!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ataritoobin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2017 at 12:23am
Very nice!  I've got an original 8700 key I can copy if it'd be of use.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vamino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2017 at 5:51pm
Epic. Approve
Good job man! Thumbs Up
Insert Coin[s]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LAZORIAN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2017 at 11:29pm
Must have missed this thread... really detailled with loads of photos, just waht you want in a restoration topic.
What an awesome restore project! Well done so far, the metalwork looks great - a big job in itself.
It's truly a labour of love but it looks like you are becoming the worlds authority on chase HQ DLX cabs now :)
Great work, do post up more updates and good luck getting the motion sorted.
My cabs: Track and Field, Mr.Do, Pacmania, Space Ace, Gorf, Jungle King, Astron Belt, Gyruss, OutRun, Frogger, Defender, Return of the Jedi, M.A.C.H 3, Firefox, Tron.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kaizen088 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2017 at 12:36am
Originally posted by ataritoobin ataritoobin wrote:

Very nice!  I've got an original 8700 key I can copy if it'd be of use.


Yes please, I can't find one anywhere.
Cheers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kaizen088 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2017 at 2:49pm

A big thank you to the person who provided me with the manual for the Top Speed DX 20".
It's been scanned and backed up to multiple locations.
I need to reduce the size before uploading it to KLOV, link below.
The schematics for the motion are all there.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nurtuo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2021 at 11:37pm
How’s the progress on this one?
Be great to see it up and running.
You're Cool, The Engines Hot, The Girl Is Gorgeous, A Tankful Of Gas And An Open Road......The Rest Is Up To You!
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