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Chunksin View Drop Down
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    Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 1:59pm
I know, I know, what the hell am I putting an LCD into a Dino King right? Well, the CRT gave up the ghost unfortunately and Gunblade needs the tube and chassis to repair it and is too far away to drop it down so in the meantime to get the cab playable I've mounted an LCD monitor as a temporary fix. No cab butchery required!

I bought a 15 inch Dell from eBay but when I measured it against the white surround/cp plastic found a 17 inch 4:3 is a perfect fit. I've got the same model Dell in 17 inch I use for testing and tried it in the gap, looked great but needed a way to set it back into the monitor space as it was too far forward and I couldn't attach the surround.

Tried a few solutions that either didn't work or just weren't strong enough and then came up with this: using galvanised strapping, the original mounts and some stripwood from Wickes made a wooden frame and bolted it using the straps to the existing screw mounts, as you can see it worked out well, next step is to make up a stiff cardboard mask for the surround and hide any remaining white plastic with some black stick on vinyl. What you can't see there are some horizontal crossbraces behind the monitor with 50mm M4 bolts in the vesa mount holes holding the screen in place, feels really solid.









Edited by Chunksin - 23 Apr 2017 at 2:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 4:45pm
Looks very neat, how does it look when up and running - do you lose much of the image around the edges there?

I was suprised you left the panel in it's original plastic case, I guess it gives you the VESA inserts which is easy for mounting, but I would have probably stripped it out of the case for minimal thickness and no DELL logo ;)



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chunksin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 9:01pm
Will get an image up later, it's spooky how it fits exactly with no modification needed. I didn't go down the decasing route, I did that with a Hanns-G monitor for a virtual pin DMD screen, ended up really messy, the plastic was integral to the monitor staying together so I ended up getting artistic with a dremel. Because the shell is very dark grey and you can't see the logo or the button panel so I'll leave it in one piece.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote virtvic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 10:17pm
You could have asked an engineering friend of yours who owes you a favour to have made you a mount...

But seriously - that looks well neat. I think you should sell me that arcade monitor now you have the LCD in place...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote itruk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 10:19pm
Are you going down the mame route with this then?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 10:28pm
Originally posted by virtvic virtvic wrote:



But seriously - that looks well neat. I think you should sell me that arcade monitor now you have the LCD in place...


I think the hope was that this is just a temporary fix until the monitor can be fixed Smile
Who in their right mind would turn their back on CRT unless forced to! Wink


Edited by Flinnster - 23 Apr 2017 at 10:29pm


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chunksin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 10:36pm
Originally posted by itruk itruk wrote:

Are you going down the mame route with this then?


Yep, Mame for now, will be bunging a Pi3 in there next week, might get one of the Adafruit Arcade Bonnets and use the original wiring loom. Once the monitor is repaired it'll be jamma'd
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chunksin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 10:39pm
Originally posted by virtvic virtvic wrote:

You could have asked an engineering friend of yours who owes you a favour to have made you a mount...

But seriously - that looks well neat. I think you should sell me that arcade monitor now you have the LCD in place...


Cheers Vic, it's proper noddy but it'll do for now!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chunksin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 11:46pm
Aarrggh! Facepalm moment. I'm a dick. Killed the monitor using too long mounting screws. New monitor being picked up tomorrow. And some shorter screws.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote virtvic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 11:56pm
First rule of making stuff - never admit daft mistakes...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote itruk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2017 at 10:44pm
Originally posted by Chunksin Chunksin wrote:

Originally posted by itruk itruk wrote:

Are you going down the mame route with this then?


Yep, Mame for now, will be bunging a Pi3 in there next week, might get one of the Adafruit Arcade Bonnets and use the original wiring loom. Once the monitor is repaired it'll be jamma'd



Never even heard of the Adafruit gadget.. Is the whole thing of setting up the pi3, loading it with games and then plugging it into the lcd, fairly straight foward?  

Do you just use a minipac to wire the buttons up etc? 

Gonna have to look for a decent guide!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote penrhos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2017 at 11:02pm
Do you have a UK/European source for one....

£12 + £24 postage is taking the piss...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote itruk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2017 at 11:11pm
Originally posted by penrhos penrhos wrote:

Do you have a UK/European source for one....

£12 + £24 postage is taking the piss...


Shipping is about £13 if you buy through their website.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chunksin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2017 at 2:52am
Pihut sell them for £16 with £2.50 postage, I bought some XH connectors for £2 off eBay and will use the existing DK wiring loom.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chunksin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2017 at 2:56am
Originally posted by itruk itruk wrote:

Originally posted by Chunksin Chunksin wrote:

Originally posted by itruk itruk wrote:

Are you going down the mame route with this then?


Yep, Mame for now, will be bunging a Pi3 in there next week, might get one of the Adafruit Arcade Bonnets and use the original wiring loom. Once the monitor is repaired it'll be jamma'd



Never even heard of the Adafruit gadget.. Is the whole thing of setting up the pi3, loading it with games and then plugging it into the lcd, fairly straight foward?  

Do you just use a minipac to wire the buttons up etc? 

Gonna have to look for a decent guide!


Grab the latest retropie image which is as simple as just add ROMs these days, for HDMI to VGA you can either grab a cheap converter from Amazon or use a Gert666 which you can get for £6 as a kit or presoldered for around a fiver delivered from Hong Kong on eBay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chunksin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2017 at 9:21am
You can also use Adafruits retrogame script which effectively turns the gpio into an ipac, I thought the bonnet was a neater solution and includes an amp. I'm using a Gert for VGA provided the pins I need aren't reserved for the bonnet.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fantazia2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2017 at 12:24pm
Originally posted by Chunksin Chunksin wrote:

You can also use Adafruits retrogame script which effectively turns the gpio into an ipac, I thought the bonnet was a neater solution and includes an amp. I'm using a Gert for VGA provided the pins I need aren't reserved for the bonnet.

Link

I think you may have an issue with using the adafruit arcade bonnet with the Gert VGA as they use the same pins.

I know the standard Gert VGA 666 mode output uses GPIO's 2 to 21 leaving only 22 to 27 free and the arcade bonnet uses GPIO's pins 2, 3, 18, 19 and 21.

Source for Adafruit Arcade Bonnet Pinout (http://pinout.xyz/pinout/adafruit_arcade_bonnet)

I've seen in the documentation that you can use different modes for the VGA output that use less pins, but this gives you less colours and I'm not sure of if these will even free up the correct pins for the Arcade Bonnet.

The only way I know of that you can add GPIO controls while using the Gert VGA output is to use some form of shift register like the Pi2Jamma and RPi2Jamma interfaces do.

I know the Pi2Jamma uses a modified version of Pikeyd to read data from 3 x 74LS165 shift registers chained together to give 24 analogue inputs for 2 players with 6 buttons start and coin.

I'm not sure what the RPi2Jamma uses as that one is a lot more advanced and has the kick harness connectors for CPS1/CPS2 boards and also 3 and 4 player connectors for Konami TMNT/Simpsons etc. but I'm assuming its got to use shift registers again to get all those inputs in over the 6 remaining GPIO pins.

Both of them use the audio Jack on the Pi board for audio.

An option I've been looking into is using a custom version for the Gamecon driver which is available as an add on in RetroPi. This allows you to add NES/SNES/N64/Gamecube/PSX controllers to the GPIO pins on the Pi and allows you to add up to 4 controllers and only uses 6 GPIO pins. 

But the standard one uses the same pins as the Gert VGA 666 so you need to edit the source code to change which pins it uses. The details are in this thread http://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=15787&start=75 and on page 18 is has the changes to make to the source code to allow you to use a NES or SNES pad on the remaining GPIO pins.

Then you can either use a pad hack and an original NES/SNES pad to add the controls or build a replication of one use some 8-bit shift registers.

You can get 8 inputs with a NES pad or 12 inputs with a SNES pad.

I started looking into it after seeing the Pi2Jamma interface and noticing that it only has about £15 worth of components on it compared to the 140 Euro price they are asking for it, so thought I could come up with something i can make myself for a lot cheaper.


OR...  just use a HDMI to VGA converter and the Adafruit Arcade Bonnet.


Edited by Fantazia2 - 26 Apr 2017 at 12:39pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chunksin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2017 at 2:00pm
Thanks very much for posting this, I should have done my research! as this is a VGA LCD only install I'm not too concerned about adding 240p support at this stage so an HDMI-VGA dongle will do for now with the arcade bonnet providing inputs and audio. I see what you mean about the restrictions in using the Gert board, you also need to disable I2C so using something cheap and simple like the IO Pi Zero to add more GPIO is not an option.

Have you seen this project: http://sites.google.com/site/mincepi/pi2vga ? Uses 16bit colour and frees up SPI and I2C in the same way as the alternative Gert666 modes but it would need a custom breakout to allow access to the GPIO. Maybe a simpler option is to just buy a cheap Chinese 'Zero Delay USB Keyboard Encoder' from eBay and wire inputs to that. Not as clean and neat but less of a headache Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chunksin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2017 at 1:42pm
Got the Adafruit board soldered up at the weekend and tested, at first I couldn't get anything out of it at all, just a red light on the top that flashed when I grounded the pins but nothing on the console. After resoldering and testing the board for an hour I realised I was testing it over SSH and the output was appearing on the console Embarrassed

It works really well and the code is now integrated into the retrogame script which means I can add more buttons and shift functions as per an iPac. The only downer is they only included 6 inputs as standard so my install won't be as clean as I'd hoped with the Start and Coin buttons being broken out onto a couple of free GPIO pins via a header, not the end of the world though Smile

Software side is almost complete, I'll be using Attract Mode on a Pi3 running MAME 2003 and the latest FBA with crt-pi filter applied, it looks pretty good with the brightness and contrast pumped up, will get some screenshots later in the week.



Edited by Chunksin - 02 May 2017 at 1:49pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote virtvic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2017 at 2:13pm
So, is this better than running an ipac?
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