Dino Kings Restore / Conversion Log

Zipper wrote: http://www.ukvac.com/forum/sega-dino-mushi-king-love-berry-artwork-template_topic342086.html I used these for mine. MuddyM kindly scanned and posted.

CAD file for 1 player 6 button panel:




uploads/3498/2L6B.zip

Flinnster wrote:

Flinnster, I’m currently putting in wiring for Dino Jamma cab and thought it might be an idea to use the same wiring layout from your photo for the control panel. The idea is to eventually have a few different panels I can swop out so need to keep to the same layout standard on them all.

Can I ask if your pin layout diagram is viewed from the front of the plug or from the rear where the wires come out?

Thanks

Many thanks for that Flinnster

Initially, I’ll be wiring up a 2L6B panel and was thinking of wiring my connector as your 2 player, 4 button Neo Geo layout with the (not required for my 2L6B panel) P1 BUT4 wire going to pin 25 on the Jamma connector and P2 BUT4 to pin c. I would probably leave P1 BUT5 and P1 BUT6 blank.

I was thinking of keeping the existing Dino 8 pin connector as well and using it as a possible kick harness and leave the GND and 5v wiring in the original position. That way it could power a spinner/trackerball if needed. The other 6 pins could be used for Player buttons 4-6 wired to a separate JST connector near the Jamma connector for ease of access should I need the additional buttons in future.

What do you think? Have I got every base covered?

Started cleaning up a Love & Berry cab that I picked up a little while back. Nothing that special to report really, just the usual process of stripping everything back to give it all a really good clean over and check all the connections before firing up.

I was interested in this cab to see if the wiring differered at all from the Dino Kings I have done in the past. I can report it's practically identical - the only difference is the monitor topped single speaker at the top of the cab, and the holes drilled in the bezel for the speaker area.

It was sadly from a ferry company, so the sides have rivet holes drilled where restraining brackets were used to hold it in place onboard ship.
I am thinking either to put small coach bolts in to mask the holes, or to remove the art and use car body filler and a gloss paint pen to touch up the holes.

Sadly the system SP board didn't have a compact flash card in it that holds the game data, despite what appears to be the proper 'key chip' in the mobo - so I'm after an image of the LnB game to write to a CF card if anyone has it.



So a few before and after pics.... only got as far as the mains power area so far, still plenty to clean and reassemble.

Got all of the wiring and components out of the cab frame and gave the metalwork a thorough hoover and scrub down with wipes. Tons of that greasy carbon dust you get from the monitors in this one, but not too bad really - just dusty at the bottom, and the usual bits of coke spillage stuff and bits of crunchie bar going on in places.
The bezel had the op sticker removed with the help of a little novus, and the plastic surround actually had what appeared to be very old chewing gum on it (it looked like a rusted bolt originally!) that hot air and isoprop cleaned up nicely, leaving a blob of white plastic underneath, compared to the yellow of the overall plastic - so must have been there for years!

Cleaned the base and wheels, just need to give them a bit of wd40 so they spin better now.
There's a fair bit of orange paint scrape around the back and base of the cab, so I'll likely use a very light bit of magic eraser to get that back to white again.





Edited by Flinnster - 02 Dec 2018 at 5:24pm

Yep I recall my body filler experience in the past was quite 'blobby' to be solid

I was thinking it can blob up on the inside if needed for strength as that's only an internal niggle (nobody would even see it from the outside). I could brace the outside with a flat mdf or wood panel while the resin sets, which when removed should leave a flush hole filled with very minimal smoothing required. Maybe

Oddly the rivet holes look far cleaner on the inside at the moment, so most of the 'damage' done was to the vinyl artwork I think / hope.
The op here was lucky not to have drilled through the monitor RGB cable - they were clearly pros and knew exactly what they were doing.....



No idea on the exact game yet. I was pondering perhaps to re-use the bezel with the pink colour frame on my Bubble Bobble cab, as the colours may work well there.
Might need to figure out the marquee though, as all those speaker holes would probably look a bit odd with the Bubble Bobble logo there.


 



Edited by Flinnster - 02 Dec 2018 at 6:41pm

Yep I've seen people use liquid metal on CP holes - but I've never used it myself yet!
How much sanding does it usually need?

I have a feeling the gloss white paint coat on the outside of this cab is going to be in very good shape once I'm done, yet once I start sanding any areas a respray / powdercoat might be needed.

Holes or buggered paintwork.. sigh!


Edited by Flinnster - 02 Dec 2018 at 10:24pm

A very minor update.

Locks arrived, so sorted out the modified tangs and fitted those.
Also popped a new LED coin mech bulb into place so that now lights up properly,
and fitted a new SR3 coin mech, all working and tested: