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MS111 coin mech

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RichMurrills View Drop Down
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    Posted: 13 Nov 2019 at 2:19pm
Hi,

I have a MS111 coin mech in my cab and I am currently using the little test credit button to add credits as and when they're needed.  I was thinking it might be easier to wire up a button to go in the blank space in the front of my CP, but I'm not sure what I need to do?

I assume there must be a couple of wires that connect the coin mech to the JAMMA harness to signal when a credit has been added.  Is it simply a case of disconnecting a couple of wires from the coin mech and rigging them up to a button?

The photo before shows the coin mech and the wiring (admittedly it doesn't really show much, I can't find a wiring diagram though).  Any help here would be greatly appreciated.



Many thanks




Edited by RichMurrills - 13 Nov 2019 at 2:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheDaddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2019 at 2:37pm
Short pin 3 & 4 out (I think) - Says GAME I thinks. Cant be 100% so don't blame me if it goes tits up !

I would trace the button that credits to see where the traces go to.
Dave.

alternatively just link wires up to excising switch.

Edited by TheDaddy - 13 Nov 2019 at 2:38pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RichMurrills Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2019 at 2:46pm
Unfortunately I can't see where the exsiting credit button goes to.  It's the tiny little one above the wire connector and it doesn't appear to have terminals, so I would have to guess there's a trace on the PCB somewhere that I can't see because it's on the back side.  I'm not sure how / if the PCB can be removed safely, and I'd prefer not to damage the mech if possible.

I've managed to grab a still from a youtube video and it does look like 3 and 4 would be the ones labelled game.  So, if I disconnect those two and short them it should in theory add a credit?  I'll test that and if so I can hook them up to a spare button.

Thanks I think that makes sense to me (I'm really not technical in the slightest, which probably isn't great for this hobby) :D


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheDaddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2019 at 2:57pm
Technically yes ! Its been ages since I did one. That one is missing a pin though I think. Yeh the button is tiny but traceable.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2019 at 2:59pm
Easiest way would be to avoid the coin mech and connect one terminal of the button to pin 16 on the parts side of your JAMMA harness and the other terminal of the button to GND then each time you press the button a pulse will be sent to coin switch 1.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheDaddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2019 at 3:03pm
Good point I suppose it would be easier.

Edited by TheDaddy - 13 Nov 2019 at 3:04pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RichMurrills Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2019 at 3:14pm
Ok thanks both.  TBH if I can avoid soldering to the JAMMA connector and just disconnect a couple of wires on the coin mech I might try that first - being a screw terminal it won't be difficult to test.  If that doesn't work I can fall back to going straight to the JAMMA connector.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheDaddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2019 at 3:29pm
Ok keep us posted .......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bones Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2019 at 11:33pm
Yeah I think the pin marked 'game is your pulse to the game board'. Looking at the connector you have your supply(2 wires) the lamp(2 wires) and meter(1 wire as the 0v is common and can be picked up anywear) and the game(1 wire as again the 0volt us already on the PCB). You should find that whatever colour that game wire is, it should be going to the coin sw 1 or 2 on the jamma connector if so this just needs to be shorted to 0volts through a button to pulse a credit. So yeah try a jumper wire between that and 0volt only a quick dab mind and as long as your game PCB is set to 1 coin per credit it should coin up each dab, then you could cut the cable and extend it to wherever you want your credit switch and do the same with the 0volt too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RichMurrills Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2019 at 11:47pm
Ended up just running a button the the Jamma harness. :)

Starting to overcome my fear of soldering :D

Thanks everyone
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69er Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2019 at 10:38am
Originally posted by RichMurrills RichMurrills wrote:

Ended up just running a button the the Jamma harness. :)

Starting to overcome my fear of soldering :D
 
 

I see this a lot FEAR of soldering … wiring a plug …. turning a test meter on and probing the unknown? 

AND ITS VERY UNDERSTANDABLE and easy for the more streetwise among us to scoff and think its unnecessary to be this way …………  BUT I THINK MOST OF US HAVE BEEN THERE???? 

ADVICE ,,,, practice a little on scrap stuff … SOLDERING;  the secret is get the iron hot enough to start and don't touch it with hands or let it contact any plastic bits or the carpet a stand is useful 

get both surfaces to be joined equally heated and while the iron is on the items introduce the solder from one side,,,  YES IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU NEED MORE THAN TWO HANDS... to explain easier twist two wires together with the conductors stripped well back .. just as if you were going to tape them together or fit to a screw terminal block.... 

place them in a firm location and holding your solder iron in one hand and solder in other introduce the heat to the combined twisted wires,,,,,  after a few seconds of heat keep the iron pressed to and introduce the solder which should be a quite fine gauge and easy melt on to the job ,,,  IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH HEAT ON THE WIRES THE SOLDER WILL RUN FREELY ALONG AND BLEND WITH THE CONDUCTORS..(((THIS IS TERMED AS 'TINNING' also)))) the unused solder and iron Both need to be removed from the worksite and allow the joint to cool...……place the iron SAFELY in its heat dissipating stand if you have one (usually looks like a big spring with a wiping sponge below)……….

same principal applies when fitting ONE LOOSE stripped back wire to any terminal or part of a circuit board or a component in a pcb ( tho some capacitors and transistors need a little more care ) 

A USEFUL TIP IF YOU NEED MORE HANDS prepare the surfaces 'tinning each surface'  apply a little fresh solder to the bared wire end as above..apply a little to the terminal THEN hold the wire to the terminal and introduce the hot iron ,, YOU MAY NOT NEED MORE SOLDER? AS THE FRESHLY APPLY TINNED SURFACES MAY SUFFICIENTLY BOND with the fluxed solder which is freshly present.. can work ok but don't overload with solder...…as this may link the adjacent terminals and cause other issues

…KEEP THE END OF THE SOLDERING IRON CLEAN BY WIPING IT ON A CLEANING SPONGE OR CLOTH WHILE ITS HOT.. a dirty iron takes longer to heat and is less efficient avoid leaving it on too AS THE TIP MAY SCORCH and become inefficient…..    PRACTICE TECHNIQUE and it becomes much LESS FEARFUL 

FINAL TIP... if you find melting 'old' solder is a common failing when removing a component or wires from an area ADD MORE 'NEW' SOLDER FIRST ….  hope that helps some of you 
undefeated arcade junk hoarder champion since 1977

IF YOU CHUCK IT AWAY YOU NEED IT THE NEXT DAY!!
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