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Outrun US/EUR differences

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mlynn View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10 May 2020 at 4:22pm
Hi,
I'm still working on my cabinet and ordering the new parts I need. A lot of forums and YouTube videos show US cabinets.

Some of the differences I see are:
1. US Cabinets have a Big Blue Capacitor on the power board.
Why does the UK version not have or need that?
2. The 3 bolts on the front of the dashboard:
Some use Hex heads but some seem to be Torx TR bits. How are these secured? There are no captive nuts on the lip on the on the other side.
3. My bezel has 6 holes to hold the map in place, but only 3 dome head 30mm screws with nuts on the back were supplied. Are they all like that?
4. Which supply line or fuse protects the shaker? In some cases a circuit breaker is mentioned.
5. Some models have a volume control for the speakers on the service panel. Mine doesn't have that.

An electrician tested my switching transformer and I think the 5V supply is dead. The 12V line works because the case fan actually spins up. I was thinking of buying one of these unless someone can recommend something better:
https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Black-Arcade-JAMMA-Power-Supply.html

There is a red label on the back or my bezel with the manufacturing date of 5/2/90. Is that a late model?

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beckscc2010 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beckscc2010 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2020 at 11:12pm
Some answers:
2. On mine there are 3 nuts to secure the panel, welded on the metal plate
3. I'm pretty sure that the original map is just stuck on the bezel, the screws are just an operator modification
5. Euro model has an atari soundboard with a volume control on it.
Yes any 5v switching transformer is good. On mine the big case fan is directly on the 220v
Yes should be a really late model!
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mlynn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlynn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2020 at 11:52am
Thanks beckscc.
2. Looking more closely there are nuts on the back and the threads haven't been stripped.
In the manual it says 3xM830 Tamper Resistant. Looking at the pictures it looks as if there are washers to spread the load and not crack the dashboard, or perhaps flanged head bolts. Does anyone know of an exact match?
5. Yes - perfect!

You are correct! It is a 240V Fan. TNT Amusements remove or disconnect the fan as they say it just draws in crud. I think I will replace that with a 12V modern case fan.

Can anyone confirm the correct size, shape and colour of the 4 gear shifter screws please. I only have two and they are different sizes and neither fit too well.
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itruk View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote itruk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2020 at 12:48pm
The bolts through the dash are just M8 x 30mm  Torx security or with the hex head in the center. Then a washer around them.

Gear shifter are M4 x 10mm Torx Security but I used 20mm to allow for any twist in the panel or metal bracket underneath.

They're all on ebay and steel finished. 
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mlynn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlynn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2020 at 2:39pm
Thanks itruk. I have ordered some. My remaining shifter screws were black, but it'll be nice to have them all the same.
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mlynn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlynn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 5:05pm
I have all the screws I need now. Before I do more work in repairing the cabinet I have ordered a Jamma Power Supply and GBS-8200 to connect the game boards up to a monitor to test that the game boards still work.

I am concerned that there is circuitry missing to make the shaker work on the original power supply board. The fuses are all labelled 2 Amp Slow Blow, I can't see a 6A fuse for the audio board as mentioned by other forum posts or a rectifier for the shaker.

On the circuit diagram it shows 110V going to the SSR board. If I had a new power supply board with just the Jamma Board (no isolating power supply) and a new LED marquee light and PC case fan powered by dedicated low voltage transformers, how would I get power to the shaker?
I will keep all the original parts I have in a box incase someone wants to return it to standard in the future.

Everyone references the v1.0 Outrun Manual, but it seems to me that there are differences between models made in the USA and models made in Ireland in the Atari Factory.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlynn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2020 at 11:47am
OK I have found The Illustrated Upright Parts Manual which I have never seen before:
https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/O/Outrun%20Upright%20Parts%20Manual.pdf

This manual is very interesting because it was made in January 1987. It shows the Atari Audio II PCB Assembly, A043661-OR and the Power Supply assembly and - you guessed it - no 12V and 50V rectifiers or big blue capacitors! It also mentions 2A 250V fuse so I guess this isn't for the US models.

Correct me if I'm incorrect but for US models it seems to me that the isolation transformer outputs various voltages including 12V AC and 50V AC which go through a 6A fuse and a 2A fuse respectively, rectified to DC and smoothed through 2 big blue caps. This provides the DC voltages for the audio board and shaker. But with this arrangement how does the Audio board or shaker get those voltages? Why didn't they just take 12V DC from the switching power supply? I'm confused.

Futhermore, it mentions:
A support had been added to the Outrun game to further strengthen the Control Panel.

This support is connected between the left hand side of the Control Panel and the left hand gable of the game.

This support is made up of the following parts:-

ITEM DESCRIPTION QUANTITY
KR-0005-AT SUPPORT CONTROL PANEL x1
72-6616$ Screw, No. 6 x 1" x2
176030-1610 Screw, No. 6 x 5/8" x2

Mine had an ugly screw on each side supporting the dashboard but that was just the operator was too cheap to get the correct screws for the front.
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