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Sega Outrun Steering Gears

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nurtuo View Drop Down
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    Posted: 23 Feb 2018 at 5:41pm
I have just started getting some of the restoration finished now.



The Dashboard was a little dusty!




Where to start?




Optimistic pull tie on the A Gear!




Standard Outrun A Gear.




Even the C Gear has teeth missing.




1986 Grease. Nice.




If only everything in life was a reliable as a Sega.





Empty Gearbox




All clean.





New Metal Gears care of GIZ10P.
Many thanks Craig, very well made.




Going back together.




Fits perfectly.




Slide plate fitted back to board.




Ready to go back in.




Lots of new grease.




New C and D gears.




Ready for a Steering wheel.


Pedals Next!










Edited by nurtuo - 23 Feb 2018 at 6:01pm
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JAG555 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JAG555 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2018 at 6:06pm
Nice work!

Questions:

What grease did you use on the metal gears?

Are your C and D gears 3D printed? Did you use a plastic grease on those?

What did you use to clean the steering parts? The metal housing came up really nice!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nurtuo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2018 at 6:51pm
Originally posted by JAG555 JAG555 wrote:

Nice work!

Questions:

What grease did you use on the metal gears?

Are your C and D gears 3D printed? Did you use a plastic grease on those?

What did you use to clean the steering parts? The metal housing came up really nice!



I use Specialist White Lithium Grease on metal gears.

The plastic gears I use High Performance Silicone lubricant.

The C and D Gears are from the US and are 3D printed and way good enough with only the
weight of a 5K pot on them.
I would not use the 3D printed A and B Gears as they would not be up to it.
Even with the weaker springs.

We normally use a very strong chemical that starts to foam up on the alloy.
Best not leave it long or there would not be much to come back to.
Then a Specialist Metal polish, I believe chroming companies use lots of.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dj_yt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2018 at 8:05pm
Whilst Craig's gears are definitely superior - the 3D printed ones are decent and better made than the original due to the added metal.

They will last way longer than your PCB for normal home use. There's a stress tested video of them on the net.

Nice job on the restore so far!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JAG555 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2018 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by nurtuo nurtuo wrote:

Originally posted by JAG555 JAG555 wrote:

Nice work!

Questions:

What grease did you use on the metal gears?

Are your C and D gears 3D printed? Did you use a plastic grease on those?

What did you use to clean the steering parts? The metal housing came up really nice!



I use Specialist White Lithium Grease on metal gears.

The plastic gears I use High Performance Silicone lubricant.

The C and D Gears are from the US and are 3D printed and way good enough with only the
weight of a 5K pot on them.
I would not use the 3D printed A and B Gears as they would not be up to it.
Even with the weaker springs.

We normally use a very strong chemical that starts to foam up on the alloy.
Best not leave it long or there would not be much to come back to.
Then a Specialist Metal polish, I believe chroming companies use lots of.





Thanks for the information! This is my Spring weather job!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mykill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2018 at 9:24pm
Looks mint bud
Don't touch the red wire
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nurtuo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2018 at 8:58am
Originally posted by dj_yt dj_yt wrote:

Whilst Craig's gears are definitely superior - the 3D printed ones are decent and better made than the original due to the added metal.

They will last way longer than your PCB for normal home use. There's a stress tested video of them on the net.

Nice job on the restore so far!

I just don't like that you have to fit weaker springs, so as not to put so much load on the teeth.

I love the feel of the strong load return of the wheel.

Too many years driving old cars before power steering was on everything.

Fingers crossed on the PCB!





Edited by nurtuo - 24 Feb 2018 at 9:00am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dj_yt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2018 at 11:25am
I'm unsure as to whether the springs are weaker due to the cogs or an inability to find the correct springs?

Not sure if anyone has just tried the original springs to see how long they last.

I also found the C and D cogs were knackered in my outrun anyway, so I'm guessing you'd want to change the lot to fully bullet proof it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brettster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2018 at 1:28pm
Looks very nice all cleaned up
Looking for More Space!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote itruk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2018 at 3:34pm
Originally posted by dj_yt dj_yt wrote:



Not sure if anyone has just tried the original springs to see how long they last.



They don't last long at all.

When I restored my mini last year, I originally bought the plastic gears (before the metal ones were announced), and fitted them with the original springs not thinking that there would be much of a difference.
It all seemed well.. after about a dozen full turns of the wheel, the cogs split from each other!
So the spings supplied with the plastic cogs and included for a reason.. much weaker!

I'll upload a pic to show.




Edited by itruk - 24 Feb 2018 at 3:35pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nurtuo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2018 at 4:02pm
Originally posted by itruk itruk wrote:

Originally posted by dj_yt dj_yt wrote:



Not sure if anyone has just tried the original springs to see how long they last.



They don't last long at all.

When I restored my mini last year, I originally bought the plastic gears (before the metal ones were announced), and fitted them with the original springs not thinking that there would be much of a difference.
It all seemed well.. after about a dozen full turns of the wheel, the cogs split from each other!
So the spings supplied with the plastic cogs and included for a reason.. much weaker!

I'll upload a pic to show.



That is what I assumed would happen, with a high load on printed teeth.
The springs are putting higher loads to centre the wheel, than weaker springs would do.
The final stop would not be affected because the bump-stop is on the A gear shaft anyway.
I suppose it just depends on how its used at the end of the day.
I personally like to drive it like I stole it.
Well I am from London.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sbdesign Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 9:22am
Thats about 10-20% infill.  For usable parts you would never print like that, the material is cheap as chips, so 100% infill only, no honeycomb would be like £1 max if not more like 30p

I have 3d printed a hub for my Direct Drive Servo motor, in my simulation rig.  Its 20-30 Nm force set up (I assume way more than these arcades that would be about 5-15Nm) and 1 year later it is not budging, i think could last forever.

So the point of my post, is to say don't give up on 3d printed or think they are not strong, its just that in the pic above is a flawed design, with a flawed method, and a bad print.
SBDESIGN

3d printed is not al the same.  Even different materials.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sbdesign Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 9:24am
One other thing...

GREAT WORK, my inspiration for when I get round to do my wheel.  I replied to your pedal post too, I have much of the same jobs to do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nurtuo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 9:25am
Originally posted by Sbdesign Sbdesign wrote:

Thats about 10-20% infill.  For usable parts you would never print like that, the material is cheap as chips, so 100% infill only, no honeycomb would be like £1 max if not more like 30p

I have 3d printed a hub for my Direct Drive Servo motor, in my simulation rig.  Its 20-30 Nm force set up (I assume way more than these arcades that would be about 5-15Nm) and 1 year later it is not budging, i think could last forever.

So the point of my post, is to say don't give up on 3d printed or think they are not strong, its just that in the pic above is a flawed design, with a flawed method, and a bad print.
SBDESIGN

3d printed is not al the same.  Even different materials.


Only one way to find out.

Start making them.

I am sure you would have a big market here>
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nurtuo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 9:27am
Originally posted by Sbdesign Sbdesign wrote:

One other thing...

GREAT WORK, my inspiration for when I get round to do my wheel.  I replied to your pedal post too, I have much of the same jobs to do.


I really enjoy doing this stuff.

Get your mind away from other stuff and you 
can get as good as you want to.


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