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    Posted: 16 Oct 2013 at 8:41pm
A while ago I posted an Arduino relay module in the 'This arrived today' section...
The theory was that I could use this 16 channel relay module (which cost around £12 delivered, from China) as a means of remapping all player 1 buttons (and joystick) to player 3 inputs and vice-versa.
Mainly as a solution to having a Pit-Fighter cabinet (obviously not with a PF game in it - 'cos it's a sh*te game, but it's got a lovely 25" monitor and my two EC midi cabs are "supposed" to be dedicated) and being a bit of a Billy-no-mates means I'm often playing arcade games solo.
So... PF has a three player control panel - although this solution could be doubled up to swap P1 & P2 and/or P3 & P4 on a 4 player control panel - which would allow you to stand directly in front of the screen whilst playing the character normally assigned to being tucked away round the corner, on the far left (let's call this position "Labour") or far right (we'll call this position "Conservative") controls.
On my PF cab, the player 1 controls are on the left, player 2 in the middle and player 3 on the right.
This is stupid if you're playing P1 (who wants to stand on the left, looking at the monitor at a daft angle).
It's equally stupid if there's two of you playing (as you're crunched up, one in the middle - directly in front of the monitor, whilst P1 is still stuck on the edge).
In fact it's only a sensible layout if there's always three of you playing.
So; coming from the automated controls industry (we now use PCs, programmable controllers and networks to do what used to be all "relay logic") I thought "why not go old school?"...
To cover a 4 micro-switch joystick and up to four player buttons (for each player) you need 8 SPCO relays per player. So a 16 channel relay module will cover swapping over the entire set of controls for two players.
Well I've finally got round to installing it.
I rewired the control panel so the P2 controls are permanently wired on the right of the control panel.
I then wired all the middle controls and the left-hand controls, via the relay module, into the P1 inputs and a spare set of cables for connecting into a P3 input (as and when it's in use).
The relay module takes its main supply from the switcher 12vdc output.
It also takes a +5vdc reference.
The module has 16 individual 'command' inputs (it is, after all, really intended to provide individual switching of 16 relays - for Christmas lights, automation, blah, blah).
The command inputs are all 'active low' (that is; the relays operate when the command inputs are connected to 0v). This is good, as we can leave the command inputs floating for mode 1 and connect them all to 0v for mode 2 (this can be done with a simple toggle switch).
The wiring isn't particularly complex (it's a fairly simple solution to an annoying problem) but you must take care to connect 100% correct otherwise player inputs will either go nowhere, or be joined together (which could be useful if you're trying to annoy your fellow player and make his character perform sudden moves at your command LOL).
I will follow this post with a full wiring diagram (although probably not today).
All installed, connected and it works a treat.
I can now, at the flick of a switch, play as player 1 and stand in the middle (if I'm playing solo) or as player 1 and stand on the left (if there's two, or more, of us).
If you double up on this solution you can avoid having to stand on the far left to play Warrior, or on the far right to play Elf (I've used Gauntlet as an example of how annoying it can be, when playing solo as Warrior and being forced to stand on the far left).
It will also solve the problem of having a four player board in a two player cab.
This is the module concerned...
It's quite small and fits neatly underneath the control panel.
And this is, currently, the cheapest source.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote trm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2013 at 12:10pm
Cheers dude. An interesting fix :)
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