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Jamma Parts and Advice Wanted

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IslandStrife View Drop Down
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    Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 10:40pm
Hi all,

I've just purchased a Jamma Elf 412-1 from dlight and am after some parts and advice on a total scratch Jamma cab build.

All I have is a shell of a Taito cocktail cab that's been gutted but has a CP with 2 joysticks, and glass etc but no "insides".

What else do I need to buy as I literally have no clue !

Presumably power supplies, sound, speakers, some kind of wiring harness ?

Thanks in advance from a 48 yr old ex arcade geek who suddenly has the time to get into a lifetime interest and hobby.

I'm not scared of electronics or anything, I just don't want to waste money buying things I don't need.




Edited by IslandStrife - 04 Dec 2017 at 10:46pm
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virtvic View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote virtvic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 10:59pm
A switching power supply (ideally with -5v too)
A jamma loom (get a decent quality one or wire your own)
Speaker
Arcade monitor for a true picture / nasty lcd if you only want to run a crappy multiboard
An isolation transformer for the monitor (if it requires one)
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk
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IslandStrife View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IslandStrife Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 11:17pm
Right, perfect.
Is there a website that I can buy everything from in a one go do you know or is it Google search all the way ?
Thanks for the list by the way.
Much appreciated.
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IslandStrife View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IslandStrife Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2017 at 9:33pm
Switching Power Supply :

https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Black-Arcade-JAMMA-Power-Supply.html

Jamma Loom :

https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Black-JAMMA-Harness-4-Button-Wiring.html

Speakers :

https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/mosfet-stereo-sound-amplifier-kit-for-arcade-machine-projects.html

Nasty LCD from my garage !






Edited by IslandStrife - 05 Dec 2017 at 9:50pm
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virtvic View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote virtvic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2017 at 12:14am
I wouldn’t use arcade world, as they are expensive - but you can get the whole lot from one place.

Those cheap looms will need the power wires swapped for decent quality wire, too.
THE PENCE IS MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD!

Check out the podcast

http://tenpencearcade.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IslandStrife Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2017 at 9:20pm
ARGHHHHHHHHHH - ordered the PSU and loom today from there.
Gutted.
What site would you recommend please ?
And also, without hopefully sounding like a complete fool.
How does it all connect together ?
I presume everything just slots or clicks in, but if I was to buy a single Jamma PCB, what does it connect to if I only have this elf 412-1 ?

I don't understand it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IslandStrife Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2017 at 9:25pm
What exactly is decent quality wire too ?

Sorry to bother you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2017 at 11:33pm
The loom will be perfectly fine with modern PCBs like those in the Pandoras Box or game elf. I'm running both those switching PSUs and I replaced old looms with those new chinese ones too.
I just wait until I have a load of stuff to order if shopping @ ArcadeWorld, and then use the bulk discount.

For older 1980's games, and some bootleg boards that are large and require quite a lot of poke to boot, you'd need to wire up another 5v wire in addition to whats already there, and another ground for good measure.
For power wires you need thicker than the wire for the switches. I think usually it's either 18 or 20 AWG as the thickness rating for power wires, then 20 or 22 for wires that connect to switches.
The lower the number, the thicker the wire (stupidly).

So your jamma edge connector is like your cartridge slot right? If you plug the game elf in, it plays the 'game elf' game. If you disconnect that and slot a jamma board in, it'll play the game that the jamma board is.

Now the wiring loom, that provides power to your game board, from the switcher supply via the jamma edge connector. Then going the 'other way' the jamma loom takes video out from the game to the monitor, audio out from the game to the speaker (an amp isn't strictly needed, the game board already has one, it can just be more fiddly to adjust), and finally has a ton of wires just for switch inputs for all the controls. Wink



When you get it, it'll naturally fall into bundles of wires. thicker black, red and yellow are GND, +5V and +12V, there may also be a thicker green wire which will be -5V. Connect those forked connectors to the switching power supply terminals.
The white block is your monitor connection. Red/Green/Blue/Video Ground and Sync. Your arcade monitor may or may not use that exact connector. If you don't have an arcade monitor you might need to wire this to a scart plug etc.. for use with a TV.
There will be another bundle with orange, red + black wires - this goes to your service panel, test + service switches.
The bundle with the green and white wires is your coin in and speaker connections. There is also likely to be yellow (12+v and grounds in that bundle too, for credit boards, coin door lamp + coin mechanisms)
The final bundle with the daisy-chained ground are all the control switches.
At this point you need to refer to the jamma wiring table and get to know your wire colours, then just connect up all the switches.





Edited by Flinnster - 08 Dec 2017 at 12:01am

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder, Original Wonderboy PCB
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door
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IslandStrife View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote IslandStrife Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2017 at 2:19am
This is an absolute legendary reply.
Thank you SO much.
I feel like such an arse asking these complete novice questions but you've nailed everything for me.
Legend - I feel way more comfortable now having read this.

I'm looking forward to ordering all the rest of the kit and seeing how I can do with this old cab.
It's a shame I can't restore the old cocktail back to something more original, but if you see my first posts and look at the pics I put up, you'll see a multi was the way to go for a first time as advised by Alpha1 and a few others.

Thanks again and I'll chuck up a few "finished product" pics just for my own records.

Roll on the holidays . . .

Edited by IslandStrife - 08 Dec 2017 at 2:20am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2017 at 2:48am
A pleasure. We only get anywhere by helping eachother out.
I had no frikkin clue a couple of years ago (and many will say I still don't! LOL)

Well worth taking plenty of photos along the way - we can help you out better if we can see what your cab actually is. No harm in starting a restore log for the cab too.
Here's the one I did for my mini arcade Dino King conversions (still in progress)
Oh and by no means do you have to buy everything new - you'll see almost all my joysticks are 2nd hand and cleaned up, and most of my connectors and bits come on the cheapo boat from China Wink

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder, Original Wonderboy PCB
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kev A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2017 at 9:22am
Nice to see someone else localish restoring a cocktail, have you got any pics
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote penrhos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2017 at 10:31am
That's exactly what I did - I picked up a gutted Taito Shell and installed a JAMMA PSU, knocked up a JAMMA loom from bits I had lying around and a 60-in-1 (as I already had it).

The LCD is fastened to the lid using some right-angle ali strip from B&Q. All I did was take the plastic case off the LCD, locate two threaded holes on each side I could use to attach the brackets - they were then screwed to the back of the lid. 

Unfortunately mine still needs the top glass. 

I'd have preferred a CRT in it but retrofitting a small TV inside and mounting it safely (there are no locks on the lid)  wasn't really an option and for what I'm using it for and for what it cost me, its fine.








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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IslandStrife Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2017 at 2:50am
Thanks for the kind words and encouragement folks.
I'll put up a few before pics this weekend and start a restore log too.
Just waiting on the postman now . . .

Hurry up !
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