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Asteroids repair help (please)

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    Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 8:50pm
Hi all.

I picked this machine up yesterday. I originally posted in the "valuations" section. After switching it on it's showing signs it can be fixed (hopefully by me ;))


After some good advice I have started by unplugging the monitor and PCB. I'm starting from the bottom and working up. 

First issue I have hit is the big diodes on the regulator PCB are shot. They look battered. Looking at the diagram I can't tell what type they are. Can anyone help please?

Cheers

John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote yorkshire_spam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 8:55pm
Page 29 of the user manual has the parts list for the reg PCB - 2 different rectifier diodes listed:

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Equites Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 9:18pm
Originally posted by Player Player wrote:

Hi all.

I picked this machine up yesterday. I originally posted in the "valuations" section. After switching it on it's showing signs it can be fixed (hopefully by me ;))


After some good advice I have started by unplugging the monitor and PCB. I'm starting from the bottom and working up. 

First issue I have hit is the big diodes on the regulator PCB are shot. They look battered. Looking at the diagram I can't tell what type they are. Can anyone help please?

Cheers

John


Define battered? I've yet to see these go bad.
Atari PCB's (and most non-Atari), AR2's, Vector Deflection/HV boards repaired & refurbished.
Wanted: Non-working Atari PCBs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Player Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 10:42pm
You have never seen a regulator go bad? I have seen loads. 10.5v AC in and nothing out. What else can it be?????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Equites Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 3:24am
Originally posted by Player Player wrote:

You have never seen a regulator go bad? I have seen loads. 10.5v AC in and nothing out. What else can it be?????


You mentioned big diodes not regs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Player Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 8:16am
Really sorry, I meant rectifier in the main psu. Not got to the regulator pcb yet. Feel a right tool now :(
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Player Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 8:52am
In the manual it doesn't mention the diodes on the rectifier board, just the board itself.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yorkshire_spam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 9:14am
Weird, they are shown as CR1 and CR2 on the circuit diagram, but not listed anywhere I can see.
I'd just go with a couple of big-ass over-spec rectifier diodes. It's not like they are a "precision accurate" part of the system.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Player Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 9:50am
Got some 6 amp ones.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Player Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 6:41pm
Hi all.

A bit of an update. Got PSU working and all voltages are now present. Good news is that the game PCB is alive. I can hear the game running.
Can anyone tell me how I can test the x,y,z inputs to the monitor please? Ideally It would be nice if I could pin point which it is.



Any help is much appreciated :).

Cheers

John


Edited by Player - 01 Nov 2020 at 6:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote yorkshire_spam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 7:06pm
Do you have a scope you could hook up to the PCB X-Y outputs?
It's possible the game is running but the output section isn't giving the monitor anything.
That would confirm a monitor or PCB fault.
Worth checking that the +/- 15vdc regulators on the game board have output? The 7815 and 7915 regs on the board.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Player Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 7:42pm
Thanks, I will check out the following and report back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote patloz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 7:47pm
I would move onto the monitor now you have the right voltages and can hear the game running as its far more likely its the problem.

From the pictures It looks like an G05-801 monitor which has its fair share of common issues, can you hear deflection chatter from the monitor ,do you have neck glow from the tube, do you have a red light constantly on the deflection PCB when the game is running?

I would use a G05 vector monitor trouble shooting and go from there as there are some great repair walkthroughs but the 4 bottle cap transistors on the big heat sink and cracked solder on the deflection board connectors are common issues.

https://www.vectorlist.org/Documents/bw_vector_monitor_faq.pdf
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Player Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 7:49pm
Originally posted by patloz patloz wrote:

I would move onto the monitor now you have the right voltages and can hear the game running as its far more likely its the problem.

From the pictures It looks like an G05-801 monitor which has its fair share of common issues, can you hear deflection chatter from the monitor ,do you have neck glow from the tube, do you have a red light constantly on the deflection PCB when the game is running?

I would use a G05 vector monitor trouble shooting and go from there as there are some great repair walkthroughs but the 4 bottle cap transistors on the big heat sink and cracked solder on the deflection board connectors are common issues.

https://www.vectorlist.org/Documents/bw_vector_monitor_faq.pdf

Thanks.

Neck glowing and LED on monitor board all the time complete with white dot in the middle of the screen. Will take a look at the link.

Cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Player Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2020 at 10:19pm
Originally posted by yorkshire_spam yorkshire_spam wrote:

Do you have a scope you could hook up to the PCB X-Y outputs?
It's possible the game is running but the output section isn't giving the monitor anything.
That would confirm a monitor or PCB fault.
Worth checking that the +/- 15vdc regulators on the game board have output? The 7815 and 7915 regs on the board.

Got a scope but it's burried away, no way can I get to it at the mo :(. Here's where I am.

I hooked up multimeter to X and Y out puts and i'm getting activity. On the X it ranges from a minus to about 2v, the y It's small.

Originally posted by patloz patloz wrote:

I would move onto the monitor now you have the right voltages and can hear the game running as its far more likely its the problem.

From the pictures It looks like an G05-801 monitor which has its fair share of common issues, can you hear deflection chatter from the monitor ,do you have neck glow from the tube, do you have a red light constantly on the deflection PCB when the game is running?

I would use a G05 vector monitor trouble shooting and go from there as there are some great repair walkthroughs but the 4 bottle cap transistors on the big heat sink and cracked solder on the deflection board connectors are common issues.

https://www.vectorlist.org/Documents/bw_vector_monitor_faq.pdf

I checked deflection PCB and found 2 dry joints, 1 ground that goes to the regulator. I re flowed all of the pins that were on a connector. This didn't alter things. Still have LED on and white dot.

I disconnected one of the regulator plugs just to see if it would be more broke and it's the same.

Looking at the schematic the plugs that come from the regulator P701 and P702 go to the x and y yoke. Would it be a good idea to test these points? Im not sure how this works but if those transistors are shot this wouldn't be working.

 

As always thanks for your help and any suggestions welcome :)

Cheers

John

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Player Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2020 at 7:51pm
Hi all.

So a bit more progress. Found another dry joint on the deflector board. I now have a picture :)



Obviously not perfect so was thinking of some basic maintenance like changing caps for a start. There are 3 main caps. The 2 50v 470uf I have ordered. The 125v 45uf i'm struggling to find. They all have the spade type connectors. Can anyone recommend a replacement? Also should i look at replacing anything else while i'm at it?



Nearly there guys, just need to get across the finish line :).

Cheers

John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote yorkshire_spam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2020 at 9:06am
I don't think caps are going to fix that.... my guess would be a game PCB fault - do you have access to a known good PCB you could try? Or as I said before a scope you could use on the PCB with X-Y mode to check it?

When it comes to sourcing a replacement cap - a higher voltage rating will do - so any 45uF cap with 125V or higher - that might widen the search a bit?
I'd have to check the schematics for that board, but I strongly suspect a 47uF would probably be fine (but without checking I don't know for sure)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Player Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2020 at 10:53am
Originally posted by yorkshire_spam yorkshire_spam wrote:

I don't think caps are going to fix that.... my guess would be a game PCB fault - do you have access to a known good PCB you could try? Or as I said before a scope you could use on the PCB with X-Y mode to check it?

When it comes to sourcing a replacement cap - a higher voltage rating will do - so any 45uF cap with 125V or higher - that might widen the search a bit?
I'd have to check the schematics for that board, but I strongly suspect a 47uF would probably be fine (but without checking I don't know for sure)


Ok thanks. I'll have to dig my scope out. It's been years since I have used it and it's really old and I mean old :). Be nice to fix it myself if possible :).

Defo won't be any variable pots on the deflector board? Theres the ones used for brightness etc but there are also another 4 (that have glue on them) presumably to stop people playing with them.

Cheers

John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Player Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2020 at 10:55am
Is there anyone in Nottingham that could test my PCB if needed please?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote yorkshire_spam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2020 at 11:01am
Also.... it looks llike you only have -ve deflection in the Y axis - so maybe a dead transistor in the monitor for the +ve Y deflection? IIRC they are the chassis mounted metal can type.

Might be worth sticking the board in test mode and fiddling with the X-BIP and Y-BIP pots on the PCB?

Cheers, Sam
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