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Warlords - MAME Build

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cNp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 8:00pm
This is all kinds of awesome work Rob... looking forward to playing at the weekend... especially as you'll have fixed the dead spot issue by then :D

When's the guest blog post for blockygraphics.blog gonna be ready?
Wanted: SEGA Power Drift PCB, Arkanoid Upright
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 1500points Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 12:15am
My machine is at a public arcade this weekend.
A guy stopped by to play it today.
Then he found me to ask questions.
He said he has the world record on Warlords with a real PCB and he could barely tell the difference from the gameplay.  

He didn't realize there was a few degree deadspot until I specifically showed him where it was.  Think the small light knobs keep it from being obvious.

He also said he would find the mame calibration settings that match the real pcb controls, and post on KLOV for us.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biglouie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 9:02pm
Amazing stuff! 

We had a small trial run this weekend at an arcade meet. All went well, it did stop holding its settings for some reason.

I managed to get one of the guys at the meet to solder in the onoffSHIM I had bought, so the cab now has a soft on and off. I need to add a button to it now.

Thanks to Martin, I would have never mustered the courage to have a go at soldering that in solo, so I am very grateful!

Adding it wasnt as easy as it might have been. We (thanks Athur!) had issues with the software download and weirdly, when we add the SHIM, we could then see any wireless networks. Remove it, and we could!? Maybe the SHIm changes the start up and doesnt start the DHCP or something? Very odd. We got round it by installing the software and then adding the SHIM. I havent checked it since, but I will.

Anyway, soft on and off for the Pi with the SHIM works....

Thx everyone at the meet for the feedback and kind words and to CNP for hosting us all!


Edited by biglouie - 13 Nov 2017 at 7:45am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 10:36pm
It's a work of genius mate, very tidy work and fantastic to play it in the flesh!
It'll be great with the CPO to tie the 'base' to the player visually.
Glad I'm not the only one scratching my head over the myrad of settings in multiple folders on the pi!

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder, Original Wonderboy PCB
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biglouie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 9:24pm
Thx mate, haven't had any time to mess with it this week at all..Trying to think about the visual tie in, might speak to one of the lads at work, get some design ideas drawn up..

Great to meet you last weekend!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biglouie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov 2017 at 9:10pm
... second time of writing..F*&%king stupid macbook stooopid touch bar b****ks..Type load of stuff, your finger accidentally (often) hits the ESC or the Back arrow touch button and you lose the lot. Hate it.

I was thinking about deadspots on potentiometers and wondered if you good people would check my logic and see if we could move this on a little bit...

To get pots working as analogue inputs, I have used joystick inputs in Retroarch//

Player 1 is Joystick1 - x axis (full left, full right)
Player 2 is Joystick1 - y axis (full up, full down)
Player 3 is Joystick2 - x axis (full left, full right)
Player 4 is Joystick2 - y axis (full up, full down)

BUT, an analogue joystick must have a deadzone right? Right in the middle, when its pointing "no where" Middle/middle, 0..And then maybe a percentage from zero/middle setting?

So I am wondering (as I have tested the pots on a meter and found no deadspots) if the software Retroarch is thinking these are joysticks (because I told them they were) and so adds in some sort of deadzone. 

If I can find out if I can remove that joystick deadzone "setting" in Retroarch this might work.

OR maybe its not possible as it always expects joystick to have a deadzone?

I was reading THIS that got me thinking...

Anyone have any thoughts? Joysticks need a deadzone right?


Edited by biglouie - 20 Nov 2017 at 9:12pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov 2017 at 10:20pm
Not knowledgeable at all, but I'd guess it's possible to set a deadzone setting / threshold of either 0.0, or something like 0.0000001 to get rid of it, if that's the desire! :)

Wanted: - PCBs: Rainbow Islands, Rolling Thunder, Original Wonderboy PCB
- Parts needed: Naomi non-swivel castor / wheel, coin mech metal clip for Dino King Door
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1500points Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 1:39pm
It will be great if you find a way to do a setting in Retropie/AdvanceMAME.

How about some new pics of your project, please and thank you. :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biglouie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 4:31pm
I am wondering if the mouse route is the best way to go...
Would a pot work as a mouse input with one of the Ultimarc boards? optipac perhaps. I need to give that a test.

There isn't much movement on the photos front...I took some at the recent meet up at CNPs house, but most of the photos seem to have ended up containing Samosa or confectionary consumption...

A Fat Kenneth Brannagh, in a kitchen, with a Warlords prototype with grey tinted perspex now installed..I only just noticed the telephone on the wall...Neat...



Below as it was prior to film removal from the perspex..




The blue pattern is due to the ply I used having previously been used to calibrate a CNC machine with a pen..



And this is Kenneth learning to solder the soft start/stop HAT in (its called a SHIM on/off) find them HERE

I soldered a single pin...Martin did the rest and they were a work of art....I have since looked for other pictures...Like this one HERE and can confirm, the solder job on mine is faaaar superior... Smile




More testing....

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biglouie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 4:34pm
Originally posted by Flinnster Flinnster wrote:

Not knowledgeable at all, but I'd guess it's possible to set a deadzone setting / threshold of either 0.0, or something like 0.0000001 to get rid of it, if that's the desire! :)

Si...I think there must be a setting in there somewhere. I have found the input_axis_threshold = 0.5, but I "think" thats when you're converting analogue to digi... it defines axis threshold. Possible values are between 0.0 and 1.0

Will test tonight if time allows....Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biglouie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 8:25pm
I am using ADVMAME to give the ability to run 4 player joysticks, does it actually use retroarch...
Changing the input_axis_threshold in retroarch.cfg to zero, makes no difference...In the various places it lives..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1500points Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 9:05pm
Originally posted by biglouie biglouie wrote:

I am wondering if the mouse route is the best way to go...
Would a pot work as a mouse input with one of the Ultimarc boards? optipac perhaps. I need to give that a test.

I am right at this point of thought.  I sound totally obtuse and fickle....but after getting the full Ultimarc A-Pac experience with the pots.  I see greater benefit to walking away from it and spending the $$$ to just switch to a full mouse-based spinner.  Expensive for 4 spinners, but Warlords has received such a strong welcome by the kids it seems worthwhile.  Maybe I'll just order one spinner every couple months then switch em over next summer......

I do not think you can trick the system to seeing mouse inputs by the A-pac joystick axis'

Here is a quick vid I just did from my GGG Turbo Twist 2/Pi project which will be a single player super-mini Tempest shaped machine.  
------->Notice there is ZERO dead spot and the shield travels full range.<--------
Maybe the Ultimarc A-Pac isn't quite the best solution for our specific needs with Warlords?
Side-note--I had a RamControls USB interface for a Star Wars yoke and don't remember a dead spot with wolf mame/windows PC.

https://youtu.be/b_LgcUwhQkM


Your machine turned out great!!!!!!  Fun pics and awesome the next generation is digging it.  cheers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1500points Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 10:22pm
Here is the explanation for using mouse inputs with the turbo twist spinner-
https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/2836/turbotwist-2-spinner-for-retropie/14
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biglouie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2018 at 12:21pm
i understand what you're saying Mark. I REALLY want to try and get this to work with potentiometers, as that is how the original worked. I see benefit in optical spinners to allow other games (Sprint, Tempest etc) so in the end, maybe I will go that route. But i dont want this software to beat me! :-) Not yet...

Ive stuck a question in advmame forum HERE, lets see how that goes I guess. I'll continue to try and hack advmame... Shame we couldnt get this working with mame mame...Maybe I'll re look at that too..
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