I have a buddy that lives in Argentina, so for fun we set about finding some arcade boards.
We found 10 and shipped them. A saga involving his mother taking them to Italy between lock downs, driving them into France, several wrong customs paperwork SNAFUs and DHL using the box as a Piñata. Not important, but a box of boards with chip shop scraps layering the bottom arrived.
I have started to learn how to fix boards with the help of some far cleverer people than I. I am massively grateful to those people for passing on their experience and being so generous with their time and patience!
Board one is Ghosts n' Goblins. I am fully aware that this is not a good board to learn on for ALL the reasons. I've put it away a few times, but I feel like I am learning the board and switching to other schematics once you get deeper in feels a little painful.
Above after dust down and replacement of Caps
On first visual inspection, the board is in reasonable shape, brushed off the dust, nothing really corroded on ICs and wotnot. Many Fujitsu ICs, which from what I've watched/read, these are often problematic. Nothing much has been socketed prior, no jumpers on the board.
I've replaced 4 or 5 Ceramic caps that sit next to the ICs, they presumably smooth things out and reduce noise etc... 104s and 101s. The most damaged part of the board is corroded Tantalums on the edge of the board. 4 or 5 have gone and left corroded pins in the through holes. I haven't been able to persuade them out for now. I need to order those and revisit.
I checked the 5v and 12v circuits, to see if I get resistance. Seems ok and not open. Classic Capcom pinout, used the adapter. Plugged it in, changed the power on the switcher to give me 5v on the board. It was 5v on the switcher, 4.3v on the board, so I juiced it. Checked 5v on an IC far far away from the edge.
STATUS - bit of garbled colourful "stuff" on screen
I pulled the EPROMs, few tested bad pins, cleaned pins with Fibreglass pen, got a few working, pulled the contents, checked against MAME using Hamster. It seems to be GnG US World 1, but it gives me plenty of options on the ones it does find. Some of the BINs don't check out at all and find nothing, so I assume they are bad. I have some 128 and 256 EPROMs that programme at 12.5v so use those, because what I did not realise (because I have never done anything like this before) is that the new TL688ii plus Advanced Universal Programmer I bought, won't burn these older EPROMs, they want 21v to burn.
Burnt EPROMS, all checked out with GnG US World 1. Old ones below, new ones on the board.
STATUS - bit of garbled colourful "stuff" on screen
I removed the bottom board (it runs to title screen without the graphics board b I understand) and went to look at CPU. It's a 68B09.
Logic probe out.. We're closing in on limits of my current knowledge.. Had a quick look at the MC68B09 data sheet HERE
Watchdog (Pin 37) shows HI, no pulse. Which I believe is good, asRESET has a line over it in schematics, which I understand from the data sheet means that it is "Active LO". If it's LO it's active. Mine is HI, so not resetting.
Next I thought I'd check the clock Pin 38 & Pin39 are both clock related. I don't really understand this bit yet, I know the this variant has an internal clock, I had a quick scan of the MC6809 Cookbook . I have discovered I am too stupid to understand it all. Pin 38 EXTAL pulsing. 39 XTAL - Not.
I think I have clock, but not really 100% sure, as the internal clock of the CPU thing I did not understand. I had a quick probe around the rest of the pins while I'm here. Address Outputs Pins 8-22, all pulsing apart from Pin 10 & 12.
So I thought I'd go and look at the external clock/crystal on the board. It hangs out over near 3N, top right of the board. Maybe thats not working.
12000 crystal, all standard from what I have gleaned, pic above shows after I replaced the LS04 (spoilers)
Nothing pulsing on the crystal. Nothing pulsing on the resistors up there at R43-R45, one side of R45 is dead, everything stuck LO. Decided to check the LS04 at 3N as its part of the circuit. The biggest frustration I have at the moment, is that I don't really know what I am meant to be seeing.
No pulsing. Piggy backed an LS04, nothing pulsing. I had a 12,000 crystal, so I piggy backed that (dunno if that is a thing). Turned off and on, things started pulsing at Pins 1 & 2 and Pins 9 & 8. Removed the piggy back crystal, things still pulse. So assume it's the LS04 and nothing to do with crystal.?! Maybe it's temperamental.
Pulled the LS04, new socket, popped in the new one. Pulsing.
STATUS - thick White Lines on screen
Tested the LS04 in my Logic programmer & tester (TL688ii will test 74xx Logic chips, which I didn't know when i bought it), and it came back as GOOD. So I popped it back into the board, just to see. No pulsing. So the tester found the LS04 automatically, tested it and found it was good, but it doesn't work in the board.
So LS04 at 3N is now giving me some pulsing and in turn providing clock to an LS74 at 3K and elsewhere.
Working my way back through the schematic from here now, after some advice from afore mentioned experts. Lots of GnG repair logs talk about 2K, 1K, 3L and 2L being bad due to Fujitsu LS161. I check, lots of dead stuff here, all floating with no HI or LO or pulse, so I replace all 4 of these LS161, they seem to be counters for the Horizontal and Vertical data. 2 check out as bad in the tester.
Now they all give me data and pulsing at Pins 11,12,13,14 and the screen goes from bars to block, white screen, which I feel is progress!
I like all the counter outputs and pulsing and things seem healthier. I read that the white screen is the CPU unable to run, so maybe it isn't getting data. That info was just one post in a very long thread though and it didn't seem to get any acknowledgement...
STATUS - Block white on screen
The thick dark line is just the refresh obv.
So if it's not resetting watchdog and clock pulsing and a few ICs have been found dead and been replaced and now show outputs, I thought I'd go look at some Address lines Pins 8 through 23 on the CPU again. If you recall, everything was pulsing, apart from 10 and 12 which were stuck HI.
Now EVERYTHING is pulsing. Which I think is good..Welcome back Pins 10 and 12. Always been my favourite MC68B09 pins.
Had a little feel around the board, nothing is hot, no specific boiling chips. Don't know what this means, thought I would mention it.
Now I have pulsing on the Vertical and Horizontal counters (tips of blue triangles below), I take advice and start working back through from here, output lines from each. Red circles. I think thats where we go now!
RED CIRCLES
2J - An LS10. 3 inputs on Pins 3,4,5 into an NAND gate.
All pulsing - HI, HI/LO, LO - Output on pin 6 is HI
Correct right? Anything but 3 HI is HI
4L - An LS08. 2 inputs on Pins 9 & 10, into an AND gate.
LO pulsing, HI pulsing, into Pin8 output which is LO pulsing.
Correct right? 0 + 1 = 0
So thats where I am to date... Along way to go, but I didn't have a logic probe or a copy of Don Lancasters TTL Cookbook last week so I've come a long way!
Any suggestions or advice more than welcome.
biglouie2021-03-25 14:16:54
We found 10 and shipped them. A saga involving his mother taking them to Italy between lock downs, driving them into France, several wrong customs paperwork SNAFUs and DHL using the box as a Piñata. Not important, but a box of boards with chip shop scraps layering the bottom arrived.
I have started to learn how to fix boards with the help of some far cleverer people than I. I am massively grateful to those people for passing on their experience and being so generous with their time and patience!
Board one is Ghosts n' Goblins. I am fully aware that this is not a good board to learn on for ALL the reasons. I've put it away a few times, but I feel like I am learning the board and switching to other schematics once you get deeper in feels a little painful.
Above after dust down and replacement of Caps
On first visual inspection, the board is in reasonable shape, brushed off the dust, nothing really corroded on ICs and wotnot. Many Fujitsu ICs, which from what I've watched/read, these are often problematic. Nothing much has been socketed prior, no jumpers on the board.
I've replaced 4 or 5 Ceramic caps that sit next to the ICs, they presumably smooth things out and reduce noise etc... 104s and 101s. The most damaged part of the board is corroded Tantalums on the edge of the board. 4 or 5 have gone and left corroded pins in the through holes. I haven't been able to persuade them out for now. I need to order those and revisit.
I checked the 5v and 12v circuits, to see if I get resistance. Seems ok and not open. Classic Capcom pinout, used the adapter. Plugged it in, changed the power on the switcher to give me 5v on the board. It was 5v on the switcher, 4.3v on the board, so I juiced it. Checked 5v on an IC far far away from the edge.
STATUS - bit of garbled colourful "stuff" on screen
I pulled the EPROMs, few tested bad pins, cleaned pins with Fibreglass pen, got a few working, pulled the contents, checked against MAME using Hamster. It seems to be GnG US World 1, but it gives me plenty of options on the ones it does find. Some of the BINs don't check out at all and find nothing, so I assume they are bad. I have some 128 and 256 EPROMs that programme at 12.5v so use those, because what I did not realise (because I have never done anything like this before) is that the new TL688ii plus Advanced Universal Programmer I bought, won't burn these older EPROMs, they want 21v to burn.
Burnt EPROMS, all checked out with GnG US World 1. Old ones below, new ones on the board.
STATUS - bit of garbled colourful "stuff" on screen
I removed the bottom board (it runs to title screen without the graphics board b I understand) and went to look at CPU. It's a 68B09.
Logic probe out.. We're closing in on limits of my current knowledge.. Had a quick look at the MC68B09 data sheet HERE
Watchdog (Pin 37) shows HI, no pulse. Which I believe is good, as
Next I thought I'd check the clock Pin 38 & Pin39 are both clock related. I don't really understand this bit yet, I know the this variant has an internal clock, I had a quick scan of the MC6809 Cookbook . I have discovered I am too stupid to understand it all. Pin 38 EXTAL pulsing. 39 XTAL - Not.
I think I have clock, but not really 100% sure, as the internal clock of the CPU thing I did not understand. I had a quick probe around the rest of the pins while I'm here. Address Outputs Pins 8-22, all pulsing apart from Pin 10 & 12.
So I thought I'd go and look at the external clock/crystal on the board. It hangs out over near 3N, top right of the board. Maybe thats not working.
12000 crystal, all standard from what I have gleaned, pic above shows after I replaced the LS04 (spoilers)
Nothing pulsing on the crystal. Nothing pulsing on the resistors up there at R43-R45, one side of R45 is dead, everything stuck LO. Decided to check the LS04 at 3N as its part of the circuit. The biggest frustration I have at the moment, is that I don't really know what I am meant to be seeing.
No pulsing. Piggy backed an LS04, nothing pulsing. I had a 12,000 crystal, so I piggy backed that (dunno if that is a thing). Turned off and on, things started pulsing at Pins 1 & 2 and Pins 9 & 8. Removed the piggy back crystal, things still pulse. So assume it's the LS04 and nothing to do with crystal.?! Maybe it's temperamental.
Pulled the LS04, new socket, popped in the new one. Pulsing.
STATUS - thick White Lines on screen
Tested the LS04 in my Logic programmer & tester (TL688ii will test 74xx Logic chips, which I didn't know when i bought it), and it came back as GOOD. So I popped it back into the board, just to see. No pulsing. So the tester found the LS04 automatically, tested it and found it was good, but it doesn't work in the board.
So LS04 at 3N is now giving me some pulsing and in turn providing clock to an LS74 at 3K and elsewhere.
Working my way back through the schematic from here now, after some advice from afore mentioned experts. Lots of GnG repair logs talk about 2K, 1K, 3L and 2L being bad due to Fujitsu LS161. I check, lots of dead stuff here, all floating with no HI or LO or pulse, so I replace all 4 of these LS161, they seem to be counters for the Horizontal and Vertical data. 2 check out as bad in the tester.
Now they all give me data and pulsing at Pins 11,12,13,14 and the screen goes from bars to block, white screen, which I feel is progress!
I like all the counter outputs and pulsing and things seem healthier. I read that the white screen is the CPU unable to run, so maybe it isn't getting data. That info was just one post in a very long thread though and it didn't seem to get any acknowledgement...
STATUS - Block white on screen
The thick dark line is just the refresh obv.
So if it's not resetting watchdog and clock pulsing and a few ICs have been found dead and been replaced and now show outputs, I thought I'd go look at some Address lines Pins 8 through 23 on the CPU again. If you recall, everything was pulsing, apart from 10 and 12 which were stuck HI.
Now EVERYTHING is pulsing. Which I think is good..Welcome back Pins 10 and 12. Always been my favourite MC68B09 pins.
Had a little feel around the board, nothing is hot, no specific boiling chips. Don't know what this means, thought I would mention it.
Now I have pulsing on the Vertical and Horizontal counters (tips of blue triangles below), I take advice and start working back through from here, output lines from each. Red circles. I think thats where we go now!
RED CIRCLES
2J - An LS10. 3 inputs on Pins 3,4,5 into an NAND gate.
All pulsing - HI, HI/LO, LO - Output on pin 6 is HI
Correct right? Anything but 3 HI is HI
4L - An LS08. 2 inputs on Pins 9 & 10, into an AND gate.
LO pulsing, HI pulsing, into Pin8 output which is LO pulsing.
Correct right? 0 + 1 = 0
So thats where I am to date... Along way to go, but I didn't have a logic probe or a copy of Don Lancasters TTL Cookbook last week so I've come a long way!
Any suggestions or advice more than welcome.
biglouie2021-03-25 14:16:54