how much wood could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood

[whitecomet]

So alot of generic and specific cabinets over the years have used 18mm black melamine-faced MDF (Medium-Density Fibreboard) or Melamine Faced Chipboard (MFC).
Ive also seen a few other custom cabinet builds with have used plywood painted and even board covered with Formica sheets.

• Has anyone got any recommendations for where to buy board in the UK?
• Good/Bad experiences with different types?

Obviously I know buying materials is expensive, but spending £200+ on just the cabinet wood seems excessive (though could be completely accurate now).

I was also considering 15mm and have found these 2 websites, again do any recommendations or experiences welcome.

• https://www.plasticsheets.com/melamine-faced-chipboard-sheet/
• https://www.woodsheets.com/melamine-mdf-sheet-cut-to-size/

Thanks for any advice or help.

 

[eliotcole]

Sorry this response won't be helpful, but I've also been thinking about cabs, etc, lately ... because of the weight of the damnable things and all that, and wonder if there are not ways to make them just a bit lighter but retain structural integrity and weight whilst gaming.

Like, a lightweight, but taught, metal frame, with much lighter external wood but a spot for a (removable) weight at the bottom. With a simple CRT mounting solution, paint + decals on top, then a proper, original, control panel. I bet that would feel no different, but when it comes time to move it one could easily remove the CRT and weight, and even the control panel, and it will move with so much more ease. 🤔

 

[cools]

15mm is viable.

 

[whitecomet]

yeah I think 15mm could work, however I think 18mm seems to be the default stocked product, sometimes then moving to 15mm (not default) the demand isnt there and will cost more than buying 18mm. So you maybe saving weight overall but then the cost is more (and then the additional support your need having a cost).
I guess finding a reasonable priced supplier is the key!

 

[big10p]

Plywood is the way to go if weight is a concern. Like the old cabs were made. MDF is stupidly heavy, IMO.

 

[whitecomet]

Plywood is the way to go if weight is a concern. Like the old cabs were made. MDF is stupidly heavy, IMO.

so what plywood covered with Formica, would that be the best option?

I guess you only need the Formica on the front and side panels. the rear and internal (if required) could be painted black?

 

[Bods]

so what plywood covered with Formica, would that be the best option?

I guess you only need the Formica on the front and side panels. the rear and internal (if required) could be painted black?

Might be worth looking through Purity's Paperboy build
https://www.ukvac.com/forum/threads/paperboy-scratch-build.61614/

 

[Bods]

Plywood is the way to go if weight is a concern. Like the old cabs were made. MDF is stupidly heavy, IMO.

A lot of the Sitdown cabs are Plywood apart from Atari that liked to make those from chipboard too which is why there so heavy
Much better option

 

[whitecomet]

yeah I think the plywood is the way to go.. just painting has never been a success for me (on any application), but in my head gluing Formica doesnt sound any better but will atleast give an even colour all over.

 

[Bods]

The only cabs that use Formica are on the front lower of Atari cabs, most it's heavy vinyl or like the crossbow I was trying to rebuild has like very thin finish like Melamine but Satin Black
Formica is what they used on a lot of older 70s stuff like my Pusher machine and the Streets Penny Bowl
Most places use the LPL faced chipboard or MDF which I was looking at but then I though what if I cock it up cutting it to size and chip the edges, its not easy to sort so I was going to go with plywood and paint it Satin black, if you damage any area you can always repair and respray.
I did respray the sides of Double Dragon 2 years back and it looked pretty good, used the Plastikote Satin Black, I'll post a photo later of it

 

[whitecomet]

Thanks for that reply.
Formica seems to be priced about £100+ a sheet.
Melamine I cant seem to find as a roll, only already on a sheet of board.
I'm guessing due to the thickness I could use a high grade vinyl (something maybe from MetaMark), this wont add to much thickness to the plywood and still provide a strong cover. Though my only concern is in previous attempts vinyl is easily snagged.

 

[69er]

If you intend to fit T moulding trim to facing edges then fibreboard of 19mm +/- is the way to go .
Also to join panels at 90 degrees , while plywood is lighter screw angle brackets may be the best to secure panels to each other , tricky and costly….. fibreboard edging can be drilled and fitted with wood dowels bonded in with wood glue … to fit drill holes in side panels. With precise measuring.

If you jigsaw plywood it can frequently be seen the inner layers of ply may be absent in places too so dowelling and T moulding can be difficult to route with the pier tools.
Also facing ply can severely splinter and suffer knot hole issues as it’s real tree wood…. This is why MDF is popular and a bit less costly

It’s not easy to find suppliers of faced up black ash or brown woody or grey/ black finish but ask timber suppliers at wood yards they may be able to either direct you to some nearby or advise you better than info here? They are the experts in timber products.

 

[Phils Arcade]

Classic Nintendo arcade cabinets (like Donkey Kong, Mario Bros, and Popeye) typically used 15mm plywood. A bit harder to get a variety of t-molding though.

If it's just for your own use, standard ply is grand, but stay away from very cheap Chinese imports as these tend to delaminate when you breath on them, and the surface layer is paper thin.

If you're looking something with good structural strength, then birch ply is best, Canadian or Norwegian. Look for B/BB or BB/BB, that's the surface grading. I get my laminate sheets from a company in England called Moreland. They have a great selection to solid colours, textures and wood grain effect.

When glueing, use a good impact adhesive, such as 3M contact adhesive. I prefer the oil based to water based version, but it's getting harder to get hold off. You can also use spray adhesive, but you need to ensure both surfaces are free from grease, oil or dust.