Del Griffith
Active member
Decided it was time to address my failing and tired KTN so listed a few of the parts, Caps, Hot etc
Chassis - KTN (not sure which revision)
Tube - Samsung 51GGB95X-TC
Yoke reading - 3.4ohms and 56.3ohms
Flyback - KFS60291 - Replacement HR8508
H.O.T - D1399 - Replacement NTE2302 or BU2508DX (Gunblade recommended the BU250 as a cheaper alternative so i went with that and it works fine)
Caps (May be slightly out as the markings are all over the place, blurry and differ from parts side to solder side on the odd one)
25v 470uf - C505 C507 C510
16v 220uf - C201 C606
50v 1uf - C207 C303 C401 C402
50v 10uf - C151 C205 C409
160v 100uf - C213 C606 C607
160v 10uf - C210 C212
16v 33uf - C407
250v 10uf - C502 (wrote down that i used a 400v on this one but think it was originally 250v)
200v 680uf - C605
50v 47uf - C503 C608
100v 3.3uf - C504
C503 has no polarity marking on the board and i've read a few posts on it exploding after a recap and mixed opinions of whether it's a non polarized cap or not. My board has a standard 50v 47uf cap and i replaced it with the same value as it had in and have had no problems upto now. If the flyback pots are facing you the negative of C503 is facing away from you.
My Monitor started with problems a couple of years back which i just ignored like you do
Hissing, Crackling, Stripes through the screen and light on one side dark on the other.
I took it out of the cab a few months back to finally have a quick look and this is what i found
Basically did a temporary fix, Cleaned it moved the position of the anode cap so the damaged rubber part was sat on the good bit of the corona and covered it in silicone grease. I also changed C502 which was leaking and causing the stripes and also light dark issue, Banged it back in the cab and carried on using it. The monitor pretty much worked fine apart from a dark shadow would move across the screen after it had been on for a while.
I've just taken it out this last week to sort it properly, Full recap, New flyback, New Hot and a lick of HV varnish over the anode area so looking a bit better now (also realized i can't paint for sh*t!)
Half way through the recap i checked it and the Horizontal size had shrunk a little?? but didn't think much of it until I'd finished and had to adjust it, Horiz width adjustment near the flyback doesn't work at all so at some point will have to look at that next time it's out
Nice boarders Hmmm... Other than the lack of Horiz adjustment it's working a treat, the picture has improved and no more crazy noises. I know alot of people hate these korteks but they not too bad really as a cheap alternative to Hantys.
Chassis - KTN (not sure which revision)
Tube - Samsung 51GGB95X-TC
Yoke reading - 3.4ohms and 56.3ohms
Flyback - KFS60291 - Replacement HR8508
H.O.T - D1399 - Replacement NTE2302 or BU2508DX (Gunblade recommended the BU250 as a cheaper alternative so i went with that and it works fine)
Caps (May be slightly out as the markings are all over the place, blurry and differ from parts side to solder side on the odd one)
25v 470uf - C505 C507 C510
16v 220uf - C201 C606
50v 1uf - C207 C303 C401 C402
50v 10uf - C151 C205 C409
160v 100uf - C213 C606 C607
160v 10uf - C210 C212
16v 33uf - C407
250v 10uf - C502 (wrote down that i used a 400v on this one but think it was originally 250v)
200v 680uf - C605
50v 47uf - C503 C608
100v 3.3uf - C504
C503 has no polarity marking on the board and i've read a few posts on it exploding after a recap and mixed opinions of whether it's a non polarized cap or not. My board has a standard 50v 47uf cap and i replaced it with the same value as it had in and have had no problems upto now. If the flyback pots are facing you the negative of C503 is facing away from you.
My Monitor started with problems a couple of years back which i just ignored like you do
Hissing, Crackling, Stripes through the screen and light on one side dark on the other.
I took it out of the cab a few months back to finally have a quick look and this is what i found
Basically did a temporary fix, Cleaned it moved the position of the anode cap so the damaged rubber part was sat on the good bit of the corona and covered it in silicone grease. I also changed C502 which was leaking and causing the stripes and also light dark issue, Banged it back in the cab and carried on using it. The monitor pretty much worked fine apart from a dark shadow would move across the screen after it had been on for a while.
I've just taken it out this last week to sort it properly, Full recap, New flyback, New Hot and a lick of HV varnish over the anode area so looking a bit better now (also realized i can't paint for sh*t!)
Half way through the recap i checked it and the Horizontal size had shrunk a little?? but didn't think much of it until I'd finished and had to adjust it, Horiz width adjustment near the flyback doesn't work at all so at some point will have to look at that next time it's out
Nice boarders Hmmm... Other than the lack of Horiz adjustment it's working a treat, the picture has improved and no more crazy noises. I know alot of people hate these korteks but they not too bad really as a cheap alternative to Hantys.
