Mario Bros Widebody Pic Heavy

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Well I have been working on this cab for some time inbetween other cabs and classic cars and redecorating my house so it has taken a month longer than I anticipated. It has thwarted me regularly, at times I questioned if this cab wanted restoring and there was more than one occasion when I nearly Basil Fawltied it with a hammer!!!!
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I bought it with the innards already removed. So set about removing old adhesive ready for sanding.

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I found working on trestles was the best way to get the edges sanded squarely.

I then filled it with stopper and regular body filler. After sanding I applied primer.

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And filler primer around the edges. In all I applied 4 coats of primer and sanded between coats with 1200 paper. This created an almost glass like finish. I lost total feeling in my finger tip for over a week due to the rattle can nozzle pressing!!!
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Next the back of the cab was sanded and filled before being painted in Satin black finish.

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Plaque and build details were removed, prior to repainting, I even removed the staples and straightend and re used. This was a bit anal but I was determined to keep as many original parts as possible.
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Next was prepping and painting the front in Satin black also.

Before

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After

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I masked everywhere that had unpainted wood even the t moulding edge had masking tape applied and cut to exact width so no overspray got onto virgin wood. There was no filler required on the t moulding edge luckily.

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Next was painting the sides in 2 pack satin finish. I had been given 3 rattle cans by the previous owner who had intended to restore it. I didn't think that 3 cans would cover it and I knew I would get a better finish out of the gun and also 2k paint is much stronger and better lasting. I took plenty of time to avoid getting too much build up, the sides had been prepped perfectly ready for top coat.

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Next side art was applied.

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Now to strip down the cp and remove the old damaged overlay.

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More updates to follow.

Currycowboy2012-11-01 10:23:18
 
Credits
23CR
Thanks for the positive comments. Makes it all worthwhile.

The process of removing old CPO and fitting new after renovating CP below.

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First of all I stripped off the old cpo then stripped the cpo back to bare metal with a wire wheel on my angle grinder. Then I acid etch primed it to prevent any rust in the future. Expensive stuff this at £15 a can but it does do a lovely job.

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I then fitted the new CPO. I fitted it all up with the protective backing still in place then got some foam and placed a flat piece of wood on top and clamped it in place, leaving the side opposite the wood free to be folded back and backing to be peeled away which I cut away. I then worked from the middle along the length working only a couple of centimetres with a special vinyl squeegy until it was all fixed down firmly without any air bubbles. I then removed the clams and peeled the backing off the remaining side and repeated the action. This was the outcome.

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I stripped down and cleaned all buttons and joy stick to remove fluff etc and polished out scratches as mentioned before. I took photos of all wiring etc before removing prior to stripping cp in the first place to aid reassembly.

More to follow. There is however a sad ending to this story. You will have to wait and see what that is though!!!!
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More will be revealed tomorrow.
 

RaveN

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I love these type of restorations, you're doing a great job!!
So you used 2 pack paint. Can i ask what apparatus you used? I have an air compressor but it tends to spray out a fair amount of water/oil, do you use any particular filters with it and what type of gun do you use?

Cheers,

Andy
 
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Drain the compressor before using, shouldn't get that amount of moisture through that would affect a job of this size. A low pressure gravity fed gun the type sold on the bay for around £40 will suffice for this type of job. Its not car finish you are after, however if you spend enough prep time the finish will be as good. I have no in line filters on mine and it came out great.
 

RaveN

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Thanks for the reply!
The only reason I ask is that in the past I have drained the compressor, sprayed car panels and a bit later they have started to rust. After what you said, I can only assume that is down to bad primer or a water/oil filter needed. I suppose with a wooden arcade cab it's alot more forgiving (it being wood). I was just a bit concerned about a small amount of water landing on plywood and affecting the glue, i'm sure it will be fine though.

The colour matching for that cab is superb, nice work!
 
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Next instalment of the Mario restoration.

I reinstated the marquee lights, though upon testing it needs a new tube, so if anyone can point me in the right direction, would be appreciated.
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Then I stripped the marquee brackets back to bare metal and painted 2 coats of primer and a few coats of satin black.

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Now for the coin door. Stripped back to metal. Got a couple of small dents out and the primed in zinc then painted with Wurth stone chip which is an almost exact finish of these doors. Painted finish in Satin black.

Before

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During

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Coin inset/reject were stripped down cleaned and polished. These came up really well.

After

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I am really happy with how this turned out.
 
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Final Pics of finished article.

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Like a total twat, I didn't think to measure it before I bought it and there is no way on earth it is going to fit through the really tight twist of doors into my games room. School boy error!!So I will sadly have to be selling this.
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Will be going up in sale section in next few days.
 
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Very old post. This sold 4 years ago. The only cab I have left is devious but you would have to come to Spain to collect it as I now live here!!!! ??
 

Ronnie Dent

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Currycowboy said:
Very old post. This sold 4 years ago. The only cab I have left is devious but you would have to come to Spain to collect it as I now live here!!!! ??

Cool! would love to live in Spain but too many ties here
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grandchildren etc. watched that bargain loving Brits in the sun about Benidorm that's a place and a half
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