Sega Dinosaur King cab - Conversion to JAMMA - Upd

[paulie]

I've posted this over on AO and J+ but thought I may as well share it here too for anyone who doesn't visit the other sites

I picked these up in Nov 2014 from Andy Geezer. I'd love to find a few more, so we'll just have to see if I get lucky.



DK cabs in da house



Theeb seems to like them



Plenty of other people have documented their cabs journey but thought I'd share mine too.

Franco's awesome thread

Jodo's Dino King to JAMMA thread

Muddy's great How to Jamma convert a Sega Dinosaur King thread

Muddymusic's lovely G&G conversion it's actually a more comprehensive read Here and Here

Spectre's conversion (sadly the photos seem to be no more)

kjeffery's Dreamcast conversion

Setch's Mushi King conversion

BTW if you stumble across or have documented your own Dino/ L&B/ Mushi journey and I've not linked to it above PLMK and I'll add a link here

If you do have one of these cabs then check out the AO wiki entry, there's a scan of the English manual (for all 3 cabs) there too. I've already printed one off, although I've not really had a chance to look at it yet but I'm sure it will be useful especially the schematics/ wiring diagrams at the back.

Right down to business

My first job is to strip them down and give them a good clean.

 

[paulie]

First job is to strip the cabs in preparation for giving them a really good clean. You might have seen all this before in other peoples conversion threads but hey ho.

Do yourself a favour and download / print off the owners manual from the AO wiki it’s useful for identifying fixings, part names / numbers, plus there are a couple of fairly straightforward wiring diagrams located at the back. My cabs just need a switching power supply, an appropriate loom and once I've knocked up a control panel I should be good to go. I think they are just missing the POP, locks, game board, Power board, I/O boards and the associated wiring loom.

Lets strip!

Please note that most of these photos were taken after I had cleaned both cabs. I've now realised there was a problem with the SD card I was using but found this out only after it had lost over half of the photos I had taken

Tools required

T20 Torx bit - required for control panel and a couple of other screws or possibly not (see below)

A couple of small Philips bits - required for removing the screws

Box tube spanners / Sockets - Required for removing the hasp and also for the bolt control panel earth and the cut earth's too

Removing the hasp

There are 3 bolts located on the inner of the right hand side of the cab and 3 more tucked away inside of the coin box, just remove the bolts and the hasp will come free. I also removed the credit counter tray (2 truss screws) to make a bit more space. I like to use box tube spanners for these kinds of jobs as I said its a fairly confined space in the coin box and the length of the thread can prevent short sockets from actually getting over the nut, also you can apply a decent amount of leverage with minimal effort with these tools. I highly recommend picking up a set when you see them cheaply as they are really useful to have in the tool box.

Nuts located through the three circular holes



Control panel removed

Both of mine were held in place by 8 M4 x 12 chrome Torx bolts (T20), the same ones as found on Naomi’s but the manual states that they were originally truss screws. I don’t know if this is correct as a regular truss screw seems like a poor choice of fixing for any cabinet areas that is accessible to inquisitive hands. Once the screws have been removed I just disconnected the the earth and it was free.



Front mask removed

First remove the 3 M4 x 12 screws and cup nuts that hold the cover plate to the board bracket then remove the 4 M4 x 12 screws, again an odd choice of fixing why not Torx? I'm guessing the monitor has been out at some point as it's missing the nut and bush from the top left (if anyone has a spare original bush please will you drop me a pm).



Inside

This is what both of mine looked like inside (Note the two cut ends of an earth cable, front door and above the coin box)



Inside the Front door



Removing the card dispenser and slide MDF base

Just remove the 4 philips M4 x 20 screws



I found a bunch of L&B cards in one of the dispensers and some Dino King cards in the other.



Removing the, lower partition, RFID chip and upper partition

Dead easy, just remove all the M4 x8 screws. You'll be now left with the two shelves and the XFMR, in the base.



This is now what the inside looks like from the arse end

The rear door is held in place by two torx screws (T20)



XFMR



XFMR underside of MDF base

Some cool Japanese writing :awe:



AC Unit



Top shelf

This still has the power, demag, test and service switches and some wiring



Bottom shelf



Gubbins

This is what came out of one of the cabs (both were the same), I don't think there's a great deal here that is of much use



Empty



Now for a bit of spit and polish

 

[paulie]

Cabinet #1 is relatively clean but cabinet #2 is pretty filthy. Both have their fair share of scrapes and marks but almost all of these look to be superficial (looks like whatever has made contact with the cabs has left it's paint on the cabinet body and fortunately not the other way around) so they should clean up really nicely and it shouldn't take too long especially as I now have a little helper


For cleaning I use

Soft cloths - for washing/ wiping and buffing

Stiff paint brush - pretty good for flicking the dust out of all the nooks and cranny's

Lighter fluid - removes sticky residue

Magic eraser - these are really very good for cleaning all the scrapes and grime off your cab

Stellar stainless steel cleaner - this is ace for all kinds of impossible to remove marks that magic erasers can’t handle, great for tough stains, permanent marker etc

Novus 3, 2, 1 - polishing plastics

As I've already said, unfortunately I've lost a lot of my photos so these next eight are what Andy originally sent me

Cabinet #1 (the clean one)

Front



Back



LHS



RHS



Cabinet #2 (the dirty one

Front






Back



LHS



RHS



Control panel grime



Some of the marks

Brushing the last bit of dirt out



Clean as a whistle both inside and out. I've had to re-tape the doors shut as all the locks I have in my spares box are too long so I'll need to order some with a shorter barrel







I need to give the plastics a proper finishing polish but I hope you agree that they are looking pretty nice now

 

[paulie]

Control panels

This started life as a splash back, but when the old kitchen was ripped out I salvaged it as it looked to be ideal for control panels. Its approx 6' x 2'



Firstly this was (well mostly) done with 3 hand tools, a Jr hacksaw a flat file and a round file. Obviously I'm in no rush and I'm just enjoying my hobby, there's something nice about using hand tools, it just slows everything down to a really nice pace, such a welcome break from 'busy life'. I say mostly as I used a jigsaw to cut out a rough shape otherwise I'd have had 6' of sheet metal flapping all over the bench and I used a drill to aid the jigsaw around the two relatively tight inner turns. I could have done it all by hand but even I'm not that keen. But if I had wanted to do it quicker remember there's more than one way to skin a cat.

Firstly I stripped the original control panel. The card reader is held in place by IIRC 4x M4 nuts and the buttons are screw ins, I used a button wrench to loosen the nuts as I had one in the tool box, like this http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Arcade-Push-Button-Wrench.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Front



Back



I drew around my 'template' in marker pen



Then roughly cut it out (with a jigsaw), it's so much easier working with a small bit of metal rather than a 6' sheet, I then taped it to the template, I used double sided tape but as it was so cold the condensation was preventing a good bond so I banged a load of parcel tape around it for good measure. I then cut it out in it's entirety relatively neatly with a Jr hacksaw



As you can see I left approx 1mm excess so I could then file down to the exact size/shape I required



Before filing



The edges have been filed to size/shape and the sticky tape cleaned off



It's a nice fit



I used a 4.5mm HSS bit to drill the 8 holes, again I just used the original panel as a template. Use a centre punch to give your drill a guide, and a little lubrication will prolong the useful life of your bit. Take it nice and slow, use a decent bit, don't let it overheat and you should be ok. Remember you can buy dill bits in singles so there's no need to spend a fortune on big fancy looking sets. IMVHO it's so much better to buy singles and put your own small set of usefully sized, quality bits together than buying a bazillion piece budget/ fancy looking set. It will probably end up costing a similar amount and the set will no doubt contain a ton of the stuff that you will never use anyway so this way you only spend money on what you'll use and should make jobs easier, quicker, more enjoyable and safer they should last much much longer too.



Looks like a nice enough fit when installed.





Although I had made my own control panelsI also picked up a pair of 1L6B and a pair of blank panels from FrancoB. They were really cheap and are of excellent quality. TBH I should have picked up a pair of each layout that Fran was having fabricated as they really are bang on. I have a few spare sticks but decided to install Seimitsu LS32’s. I also have loads and loads of unused Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons and ball tops (mostly silly colours) but last year Jase sold me a set of black and a set of white Sanwa’s so that’s what I've populated the control panels with, also I've not yet decided on what art I'll use, so this colour scheme may have to change.

Cheers Fran



Installed



Locks, I’ve now got them sorted, not OEM but I’m not fussed as it’s hardly an original cab. I ended up buying a lot of 5x 19mm keyed alike locks for a little under £20 on ebay. The tangs needed to be cut to length as the cab requires a stubby tang but other than that they're fine. It only takes 30 seconds with a jigsaw to cut each tang to size, then a few minutes with a file to take off any burs and shape the corners.

One tang cut 3 more to go



Fitted, yeah its only a lock but I'm using one of devilsoundwave's snazzy AO key chains so worthy of a photo

 

[paulie]

You get two shelves in these cabs, a rather generous top one and a smaller lower one.

I had originally thought I would lay the internals out like in the the SNK SC19-4 cabs with the psu and service panel to the front of the base and the shelves could both be used for PCB’s. But space was a little tight in the base due to a metal plate which is welded in place also the service panel would have required a lot of modification to fit. I could of course have gotten around these issues but I felt that mounting the service panel on the bottom shelf and knocking up a new MDF base for the XFMR and JAMMA switching PSU like in Franco’s project was the better option.

The service panel is too tall to be mounted on the lower shelf without any modification as it was originally sited on the roomier top shelf. Fortunately it only needs the top trimming off so it’s a really quick job.

My first question: Is there any benefit to cutting down the rest of the shielding and putting it all back albeit on the lower shelf now that he original hardware has been ripped out? The only thing that will now be on the lower shelf is the service panel. I’m sure the answer will be no but I’ve kept all the bits and bobs just in case. This isn’t an how to guide but nevertheless I don’t want people to stumble across my thread and be misinformed.

Top shelf, this is how it was when I got the cab complete with service panel and shielding






Service panel marked up, really to be cut down



Cut to size



Burs removed and the protective plastic strip reapplied



The cab is rammed full of cable clips which will make it all neat and tidy when it comes to adding the wiring but not all of them are needed. I’ll probably make new shelves if ever I have a spare bit of 12mm MDF. There’s nothing wrong with these ones but they have a few holes from the mounting of the original hardware, so why not.

I left just 2 cable clips on the lower shelf



I removed them all from the top ‘PCB’ shelf. As you can see it’s a decent sized bit of real estate for such a small cab.



Both my cabs had a XFMR to step the voltage down for the monitor, but no wiring for a traditional switching JAMMA power supply. The first thing I needed to do was to knock up a new MDF base to mount the existing XFMR and a new PSU. I had a left over scrap of MDF in the garage, it’s thicker than the original and it’s been knocked about so it has some slight splitting down one side, (I'm picky and it really is something and nothing) it doesn't matter about the depth but again I'm picky so I’ll make a perfect replacement when I pick up an off cut. I’ll get my router out for the edges too just to make it extra nice but I couldn't be bothered to do that for these ‘temporary’ ones. The new base is just a simple ‘L’ shape. If you use the original as a template then you already have the perfect placement for all of the necessary holes. Use a forstner bit to drill larger holes on the reverse in order to mount the threaded hardware to the correct depth. The XMFR MDF base originally comes with Claw nuts and the front card dispenser MDF mounting base (which is also not required) originally comes with barbed inserts :ugeek: so take your pick which to re-purpose, they both do the same job. Just poke them out with an old screwdriver and tap them into the new one. Use a pair of pliers to hold an old sturdy bolt and use that to tap the hardware into position, don’t hold the bolt without the pliers, if the bolt slips and you twat your finger it WILL hurt!

The original



The new mounting plate marked up, I got two out of this off cut



XFMR and new PSU mounted in position



Underside



New base Installed in the cab, rear view



And front view



Shelves and service panel installed, rear view. As you can see plenty of space on that top shelf



and front view

 

[paulie]

Obviously there’s more than one way to skin a cat and I'm no expert, as I say I'm just sharing how I did it

I disconnected both the Live 240v feed and the neutral line from the noise filter and separated the JST VL8P / JST VL8R connectors (just press the tab) and removed this loom from the cabinet.

I cut both the live and neutral lines in half. I then stripped the correct length of protective sheath off of the four ends of wire. Both live wires were inserted into a Wago 222-413, 3-way connector and both neutral wires were inserted into a second Wago 222-413, 3-way connector.

I stripped the protective sheath and preprepared both ends of a length of mains wire (the Live and neutral lines need to be approx 400mm but the earth needs to be a little longer, approx 500mm).

On the end of the cable (with the longer length of earth) the live wire was inserted into the ‘live’ Wago connector and the neutral wire was inserted into the ‘neutral’ wago connector. Each end of the earth as well as the other end of the live and neutral lines were crimped with 4mm uninsulated ring terminals and heatshrink. Live, neutral and earth were connected to the appropriate screw terminals on the switching PSU. The other end of the earth (the long end) was screwed to the main earth terminal plate, the Live and neutral quick disconnects were reconnected back to the noise filter and the JST VL8P / JST VL8R connectors were reconnected.

The loom

This is pretty standard stuff really.

I picked up a couple high quality preloved looms from Mo which I adapted, I did make my own loom from scratch but used that one on another project. If you want to make one from scratch use 16/0.2 (~20AWG) for signal and 24/0.2 (~18AWG) for power.

I put the wires into 6 bundles (a Bob Roberts tip) hence the colour coding.

Black/Grey - Main Power - A,B,C,D,E,F,1,2,3,4,5

Yellow - Coin door - R,e,6,8,15,16

Orange - Audio - L,10,

Blue - Video - N,P,12,13,14

Red - Player 1 - 17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25,27,28

Green - Player 2 - U,V,W,X,Y,Z,a,b,c,f

Front view



Back view



Main Power (BLACK/GREY bundle - A,B,C,D,E,F,1,2,3,4,5)

All wires wires A (GND), B (GND), C (+5vDC), D (+5vDC), E ( -5vDC), F (+12vDC), 1 (GND), 2 (GND), 3 (+5vDC), 4 (+5vDC) and 5 ( -5vDC) terminate with 4mm uninsulated ring terminals/ heat shrink and are connected to the appropriate screw terminals on the switching PSU. To enable quick removal of the switching PSU I added a 12 pin AMP UP break out connector.

NOTE: One of my cabs has a Min Dong PSU which doesn't support -5vDC so in that cab E ( -5vDC) and 5 ( -5vDC) are terminated in a 2 pin AMP UP connector.

Main Power



Coin door (YELLOW bundle - R,e,6x2,8,15,16)

Service switch - R (Service switch) and e (GND), both terminate in 2.8mm uninsulated terminals / SR-110 sleeves and are connected to the service switch. I daisy chained a second length of wire to e (GND) and terminated it again in a 2.8mm uninsulated terminal / SR-110 sleeve to provide GND for the test switch. I then daisy chained a third length of wire to e (GND) which terminated in a .3.96mm/0.156” pitch crimp terminal which is connected to pin 3 on the Molex KK credit board connector, again to provide GND.

Test switch - 15 (test switch) terminates in a 2.8mm uninsulated terminal / SR-110 sleeve. GND is addressed as above.

Coin mech credit board - 6 (12vDC) to pin 1 (12vDC) and 16 (coin switch 1) to pin 4 (0P1) on the Molex KK connector, GND was daisy chained from e (GND) on the service switch as above.

Coin mech light - Pin 5 (12vDC) and pin 10 (0v GND) from the Molex KK connector on the credit board both terminating 2.8mm uninsulated terminals / SR-110 sleeves and connected to the coin mech light bulb holder. A massive thanks to Guy for helping me out with these

Coin counter - 6, 8 and from pin 10 on the Molex KK credit board connector all terminated in a JST YLR-06V connector. 6 (+12vDC) to pin 1, 8 (coin counter#1) to pin 2 and from pin 10 (0V GND) on the Molex KK credit board connector to pin 3.

Note there are two coin counters in this cab but you only need one of them, the other counter uses a JST YLR-04V connector so take ya pick.

Service & Test



Audio (ORANGE bundle - L,10)

L & 10 terminating with 2.8mm uninsulated terminals / SR-110 sleeves L (speaker -) & 10 (speaker +) are connected to the factory fitted speaker.

Front Door audio and coin mech



Coin counter





Video (BLUE bundle - N,P,12,13,14)

All cables terminate in a JST YLR-06V connector. 12 (video red) to pin 1, N (video green) to pin 2, 13 (video blue) to pin 3, 14 (video ground) to pin 4, P (video sync) to pin 5, I ran a jumper from pin 5 (video sync) to pin 6 to make composite video. This then connects to the JST YLP-06V which is the cabinets factory fitted monitor connection.

Video



Player 1 (RED bundle - 17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25,27,28)

Joystick - 18 (up), 19 (down), 20 (left), 21 (right) and 28 (GND) all terminate in 4.8mm uninsulated terminal / SR-187 sleeves. 28 (GND) has a further three lengths of wire daisy chained terminating in 4.8mm uninsulated terminals / SR-187 sleeves. These are then all connected to a Seimitsu LS-32 joystick.

Pushbuttons - 17 (start), 22 (1), 23 (2), 24 (3), 25 (4) and 27 (GND) all terminate in 2.8mm uninsulated terminals / SR-110 sleeves. 27 has a further 6 lengths of wire daisy chained and terminating in 2.8mm uninsulated terminals / SR-110 sleeves. These are then all connected to the six Sanwa OBSF-30 and one Sanwa OBSF-24 push buttons.

To enable quick removal of the control panel I added a 12 pin AMP UP break out connector, 25 (button 4) has its own AMP UP break out connector. Post Naomi Sega cabs use JST VL and YL connectors but I used AMP UP as that’s what I had in my spares box.

Player 2 (GREEN bundle U,V,W,X,Y,Z,a,b,c,f)

Currently unused. U (start), V (up), W (down), X (left),Y (right), Z (1), a (2), b (3), c (4), f (GND) all terminating in a 12 pin AMP UP break out connector.

P1 & P2



Boom!



One of the cabs is currently being used as my dedicated PGM cab and the other is used for whatever. I say used in the loosest sense of the word as I don't seem to have time to fart these days.

There’s still quite a few other jobs to do, but hey who’s rushing...

 

[Alpha1]

Hey

Nice work, I've got two you can have I was going to put them up for sale today on here. PM me I'll send you pix.

 

[paulie]

Thanks mate.

Pm sent

 

[neo-geo-mvs]

Nice write up Paul. Definitely giving the DK another lease of life. Are you going to add some artwork to the sides, CP and topper for the PGM dedicated cab?

 

[paulie]

Nice write up Paul. Definitely giving the DK another lease of life. Are you going to add some artwork to the sides, CP and topper for the PGM dedicated cab?

Thank you David, I'm glad you enjoyed it

Yes, hopefully at some point in the near future I'm going to arrange to have the artwork designed and printed. I'm particularly excited about finishing off the dedicated PGM cab, as you know it's one of my all time favourite arcade systems. I'll be honest I don't know what the artwork will look like but hopefully it will turn out nicely.

 

[Buttonbasher]

Amazing how well that cab has cleaned up, surprising what a bit of elbow grease does

 

[micksimmonds]

love these cabs, I have a Love & Berries for my daughter, and she loves it, cant find the cards for it thou

I had a couple of Dino Kings, one became a JAMMA Atomiswave setup, and the other became a Neo Geo setup, the Atomiswave one, then later became a Dreamcast one, and now owned by Nathan Barnett (Keith Apicary Neo Geo)

 

[virtvic]

Mick - I have about 3 full packs of the cards. PM me and we can sort out a price etc.

Pauline - I did a Mr Driller can ages out of a luv n berry. It's on here somewhere.

 

[silverfox0786]

Mick - I have about 3 full packs of the cards. PM me and we can sort out a price etc.

Pauline - I did a Mr Driller can ages out of a luv n berry. It's on here somewhere.

The Driller was out of the Dino King

The love an berry was left generic

btw i have both of them

hehe