Sega Racing Cab Subwoofer

[Vamino]

Pretty sure my Aura transducer was from a Daytona 2 DX. I think it's this model:
https:///www.amazon.co.uk/AuraSound-AST-2B-4-Shaker-Tactile-Transducer/dp/B0002ZPTBI

I also managed to get the amp from the cab but I don't have the pinout. Not sure which amp it is now as I have a few different ones, but, it's quite large when compared to the small sub amp.

First I'd check the jumpers on the main amp as Gary suggested, you could also try swapping the - and + on the sub speaker around. When I was tinkering on one of my cabs I found the subwoofer I fitted was running out of phase and the bass was greatly reduced because of it.

It's unlikely the sub amps are faulty on both of the sides, they either work or they don't from my experience. Could be a cap issue on the main amp, those amps were usually driven hard with bad cooling which can easily blow speakers and dry out caps.

>Danscu
Your cab should still have a transducer fitted mate. I think both the subwoofer and transducer are wired to the sub amp with a new 120mm fan stuck over it to actively cool the sub amp. I soak tested that at full volume to make sure it didn't crap out. Those amp heatsinks really need cooling imo as they do tend to get hot over extended periods when the volume is high!

Vamino2022-02-02 18:57:05

 

[Outrun2]

An update on this old thread as I replaced a sub woofer in one half of my Daytona 2 twin yesterday.

The original was clearly blown as it was just crashing and popping so I decided to try out the Visaton KT100V. With a fully working original in the other half of the twin it gave me an opportunity to directly compare the results.

The Visaton is an easy fit in the original speaker box, no mods required to box or speaker, but it's not quite as big as the original speaker. The frame is different in that it only has tabs for the mounting holes and not a complete frame. This means it doesn't quite cover the void completely - I kept the original mounting ring which helps fill some of the gap - sorry I haven't taken decent photos yet..



Anyway, it all fit snugly enough when screwed down so thought I'd test it out - the biggest issue with replacing the speaker is getting to it as you have to take the whole seat unit off. It's made more complicated if you still have the original drag chain holding the loom - the technique of angling the seat frame from the base and an extra long screwdriver is your friend here! I've taken apart loads of Sega drivers so it's only a 10-20 minute job, but can be fiddly and frustrating if you're doing it for the first time.

So after firing up, what are the results in comparison to original?

I would say it's pretty close, maybe the original is around 5-10% stonger - just about noticeable, but only just. This is probably because the original is rated 30W and the Visaton is 25W - or maybe the small gap between the speaker frame and mounting ring makes a small difference? The original speaker is also noticeably heavier than the Visaton, about 100g heavier - I guess 100g gives you an exta 5W!

Is it worth it? Is the experience better with a working sub woofer?

Definitely. The sub woofer in a Sega driver may not be up to boy racer standards, but it certainly adds to all the games I have - without it the sound it just a bit lacking. It's a good idea to upgrade your volume control setup though as the sub does need to be turned up the max on most games to make an impression. If the volume range was marked 0-10 then don't expect to hear or feel anything below 7 or 8. I have full independent volume control on front/rear/woofer in my Daytona 2 twin - this is a must if you want to feel the woofer with this game as the rear and woofer volume is linked out of the factory and you probably won't have your rear speakers set anywhere near 10.. it'll kill your ears! I think this is why people don't notice the sub woofer on a lot of Sega drivers.

Daytona 2 owners check here for the independent volume details https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?p=489244#p489244

So, well worth the time and effort - and a good excuse to get in the garage and take a cab apart to be honest

£27 delivered is a good price from CPC who are always great to deal with in my experience https://cpc.farnell.com/visaton/kt-100-v-4-ohm/woofer-4-25w-low-resonance-4-ohm/dp/LS04928

I will probably buy a few more to replace the broken spares I have unless anyone has tried other speakers in the meantime and has had better results?

 

[Bods]

I missed this Thread it seems, for ages I've thought the foam must be shot on the subs in my cabs as they are rubbish even compared to Turbo Outrun

Lot of work to get them out just to check though

Why not just find some new Foam that will fit and refurb the originals

 

[Sbdesign]

As stated in here…
The sr2 Dx had transducers - aura
1 in pedals and 1 in seat.
For those not in the know, this is the type of device is in universal studio’s rides that shake the seats etc.
Works like a speaker, in the sense it is magnets that pulse it, but rather than a cone, a weight is moved.
More controlled than rumble motors, and can produce accurate changes in frequency.

The sim racers in here will be familiar with them. Buttkicker is one of the best brands. In sim racing you can use the telemetry data and control how ever you like from road noise, suspension bumps, wheel slip etc. and choose volume and frequency. You can mount them in surround, such as one per a corner, and even on the shifter.

there is guides to make your own from a. Speaker/sub

And I was supprised to see SEGA rally Dx had a kind of modded sub version

I’ll have to get photos