Sega Rally Championship 1994 accelerator/brake issue

jasonzob

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Hi everyone,
I’m having an issue with my Sega Rally 1994 cabinet — I’m not getting any signal from the brake or accelerator, even after replacing the POTs on both. Does anyone know if these signals are routed through the control board first, or go directly to the main PCB? I suspect the control board is not working. That said, Steering is working fine.
Thanks in advance!
 

Sbdesign

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What would I do

Use a pot you took out and jumper wire it to the input on the filter board and turn and test while in test.

Has it ever worked?
If not a wire maybe nipped or unplugged.

Also the filter board maybe duff.

IMG_3442.gif
 

jasonzob

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Thanks very much I will try that. Yes, it used to work. It was a bit strange that the accelerator and the brake died at the same time. Much appreciated.
 

G-man

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Is there continuity on the cables from the pots to the PCB? They may use a shared ground cable (can't recall) so it is possible that this has worked loose or is not making a connection for them both to fail at the same time.
 

jasonzob

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What would I do

Use a pot you took out and jumper wire it to the input on the filter board and turn and test while in test.

Has it ever worked?
If not a wire maybe nipped or unplugged.

Also the filter board maybe duff.

View attachment 43866
Hi - v sorry it's taken a while to get back on this topic - I've jumper wired to the input "blue" wire (cut into wire) near the filter board, I'm also connecting 5v from the power supply vs the accelerator power (brown/red) but it's still 0 reading ! I've also done the same with the brake and getting 0 reading as well. I checked the power is okay so I'm wondering if the filter board, or worse one of the PCB is faulty. Can you suggest anyting else? I do have a spare sit down machine, so I can use that for parts as well - thanks, Jason
 

Sbdesign

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direct to pcb

What would I do

Use a pot you took out and jumper wire it to the input on the filter board and turn and test while in test.

Has it ever worked?
If not a wire maybe nipped or unplugged.

Also the filter board maybe duff.

View attachment 43866
DISCUSSED WITH AI, as i thought it may better explain:

On the Model 2A pinout image you posted, the pot / analogue inputs are on CN8.

Pin 1 is on the right-hand side of CN8, where the black arrow is. The numbering goes right to left.

CN8 analogue pot pins​

Analogue channel+5VPot signal / wiperGND
A/D 1Pin 5Pin 6Pin 7
A/D 3Pin 8Pin 9Pin 10
A/D 5Pin 11Pin 12Pin 13
A/D 7Pin 14Pin 15Pin 16
So to check a pot input:

  1. Meter on DC volts.
  2. Black probe to the relevant GND pin.
  3. Red probe to the relevant A/D signal pin.
  4. Move the steering / pedal / pot slowly.
You should see a smooth voltage sweep, roughly:

  • near 0V one way
  • around 2.5V middle
  • near 5V the other way
Example for A/D 1:

  • Check supply: CN8 pin 5 to pin 7 = about 5V
  • Check pot signal: CN8 pin 6 to pin 7 = variable voltage as the pot moves
If the voltage changes smoothly at CN8 but not in the game’s input test, the fault is likely on the board/input ADC side. If it does not change at CN8, it is loom/pot/5V/GND related.
 

Bods

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Is there continuity on the cables from the pots to the PCB? They may use a shared ground cable (can't recall) so it is possible that this has worked loose or is not making a connection for them both to fail at the same time.
Shared Ground and 5v on some, only middle pin of pot needs to be seperate to gameboard, sega ones usually seperate through 2x 3pin connectors

If doing nothing then i'd suspect no 5v to them
on Pot its Just 5v one end and ground other and middle output to pcb no 5v power to pot no output to pcb

could unplug CN8 each side and make sure it's not got any shorts on the filter board across the pins
 
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