Supergun build (solderless)

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Hi all,

Back in June I posted a WTB for a Supergun setup. Thanks to one reply in particular I was inspired to build my own solderless supergun! It has been complete for a while now but I thought I would post this up to hopefully show that it just takes a bit of perspiration and inspiration (thanks, Titchgamer!) to produce a perfectly acceptable result:

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It took a couple of weeks all told as I had to order some bits that I missed out. I had some issues with the SCART connector, every standard cable I tried didn't work, luckily I had a high quality Belkin cable which worked fine so I had to use that in the end.

It's currently set up with only 1 controller port because I have no friends. But seriously, I ran out of enthusiasm for cutting the case as I found that to be the hardest and most frustrating part of the build!

I would like to eventually build on into a metal case but that would take some real skill to fabricate so I'll stick with this for now!
 
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jammajunky said:
Lovely stuff, where did you get the box?

Hi, thanks! Box came from eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/217x294x120MM-Large-Project-Box-Enclosure-Case-Vents-Ventilation-Openings-KE39W/191956411604?hash=item2cb17e64d4:g:pMUAAOSwFe5XwysK
 

Titchgamer

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Great job man!
smiley4.gif


I also found the case cutting to be the worst part of the job.
But a Dremel with the little router attatchment makes life much easier I recently found out ??Titchgamer2020-09-18 12:22:30
 

Monstermug

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I tried to make a supergun once. Made a right mess and just paid £500 for a proper one.
smiley36.gif
Think I tried to make it too solid and failed to realise that it was all down to the quality of the PSU how good a supergun actually is. A bit like a engine of a car.
 

Monstermug

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sukhbir said:
Very nicely built but how do you adjust the +5volts when you connect up a arcade pcb?its important to keep pcbs at 5 volts At all times.

I wouldn't advise anybody to keep changing voltages like that to be honest. Under-voltage is always better than over-voltage imo. Each ic's have tiny hairlike wires connecting the legs to the logic inside. Think of them like lightbulbs. More electric the more hotter they get, hotter they get the quicker they burn away.

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Most of my boards will happy run at 5.05 UNLOADED. so whatever current they draw they draw. Unless its a massive bootleg then I never need to adjust voltages.

Also what happens is you would stick in a massive bootleg. Bump up UNLOADED voltages to 5.5 just so it shows up at 5v loaded. Play the game then one day swap out the pcb for a tiny taito pcb and forget to readjust voltages. Boom.

Furthermore, some pcb has dirty jamma edge connectors both on the machine and pcb itself. This can give you false readings for voltages under load. Imaging you bump up the voltages to 5.6v just so the pcb can get enough voltages to run properly (5v) You plug it in your cab in and every time your smashing that fire/kick button, the pin makes more contact with the pcb sparking it with 5.6v instead of 5v.

Talking from experience here so up to you to take advice or not. These day I only trust Hirose edge connectors. If u wanna know what I mean just have a look at your edge connects and see how spaced out the pins are....
 

simonden

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Monstermug said:
sukhbir said:
Very nicely built but how do you adjust the +5volts when you connect up a arcade pcb?its important to keep pcbs at 5 volts At all times.

I wouldn't advise anybody to keep changing voltages like that to be honest. Under-voltage is always better than over-voltage imo.

Absolutely agree, I find that if you need to constantly change voltage then the PSU doesn't have enough draw at 5V so you are over-compensating by upping the voltage to increase the draw. I prefer to use a decent PC power supply for superguns that has higher amps on the 5v and self-regulates to keep the 5v at 5v. On the odd occasion that the power supply is not providing enough voltage, then I know there is a board fault/dirty connector somewhere.
 
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The supergun PCB has a voltage meter on it. I might actually mod it so there is a readout on the front of the casing.

I ended up cutting the holes with my Black & Decker hobby tool, bit like a Dremel. It was incredibly messy and very easy to overcut the holes so I did a fair bit of cutting with a hobby knife and doing a lot of filing!
 
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Titchgamer said:
Great job man!
smiley4.gif


I also found the case cutting to be the worst part of the job.
But a Dremel with the little router attatchment makes life much easier I recently found out ??

Thanks. I wouldn't have been able to undertake the build without your post to be honest!
 

jammajunky

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Cutting the plastic was harder than I thought it would be. The plastic heats up when trying to dremmel it, very easy to go wrong (look how wonky my jamma harness hole is
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)

Pleased with the overall results but might look at a smaller case in future along with trying to find some sort of 8pin mini din mount (I searched everywhere with no luck)
 
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