Wireless Thermostat recommendations

Coops

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Hi,

Just wondering if anyone on here has recommendations on wireless thermostats and/or advice?

I have been looking at Hive and Ecobee, they both look like they do the same things.

The reason for moving to a wireless thermostat is that the back rooms to my house (its a new build only less than 3 yrs old) are cold compared to the front. The thermostat is currently in the bedroom to the front of the house which gets the sun from morning to night so the room is always warm compared to the back. The radiator is fully functioning including TVR and there is no air in the rads. When looking online it appears that moving the thermostat is the best option but as its hard wired I thought I would try the wireless option.

Any plumber/heating engineer with any help/advice would be great.

Thanks
 

Bods

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That's what I bought years ago off ebay more than likely, can't believe the prices people asking for new ones
Wired it up myself, no issues with it

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156656796811

This one probably newer model
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/356454743996

But daft of them to fit it in bedroom that gets the sun, I have mine downstairs as that's always colder than upstairs

Are the Radiators big enough in back rooms, my house was cold upstairs to downstairs to start as only had Single rads upstairs, I put doubles in and that was much better, still need to replace older ones downstairs
 

Coops

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That's what I bought years ago off ebay more than likely, can't believe the prices people asking for new ones
Wired it up myself, no issues with it

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156656796811

This one probably newer model
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/356454743996

But daft of them to fit it in bedroom that gets the sun, I have mine downstairs as that's always colder than upstairs

Are the Radiators big enough in back rooms, my house was cold upstairs to downstairs to start as only had Single rads upstairs, I put doubles in and that was much better, still need to replace older ones downstairs
I've just looked at the radiators and from a quick google they appear to be single rads. I think they try and make new builds energy efficient / spend the least amount of money!

I will have to look into upgrading for a double in the rooms too!

Thanks
 

Fantazia2

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You don't need Hive or Ecobee if you just want to relocate your thermostat as they are smart thermostats.

If you don't need the smart/online features you can get wireless standard thermostats either new or cheaper off eBay.

This is assuming your current thermostat acts like a standard mechanical open/closed switch arrangement and doesn't "talk" to the boiler.

Simple to fit as well as you would have a receiver that connects where your current thermostat is and then you put the wireless sender thermostat wherever you want.
 

Bods

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It depends on the house, If Detached I wouldn't even bother with Single Rads, My Windows are massive and it didn't get warm upstairs, landing was warmer than bedrooms as heat came up from hall double Rad, so I said to my Dad it needs Double Upstairs, he didn't think it needed it but it would be like trying to warm up a 12ft x 12ft room with 1kw Heater, will take hours, switch to 2kw and its much quicker,

When I lived at home I had the small box room which had 2 outside walls and it was freezing, you could have pretty much ice cold drinks if left under unit in corner, only small Rad and then had another electric heater on too which my dad used to complain about, rooms with only 1 outside wall are much easier to warm up and when they moved to house they still in, I had bedroom with only 1 outside wall, In winter I had to turn my Rad right down and have ceiling fan on, there bedroom only gets to about 20c max with boiler going which has 3 outside walls

I would get Wireless Thermostat first and try that first
 

Bods

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You don't need Hive or Ecobee if you just want to relocate your thermostat as they are smart thermostats.

If you don't need the smart/online features you can get wireless standard thermostats either new or cheaper off eBay.

This is assuming your current thermostat acts like a standard mechanical open/closed switch arrangement and doesn't "talk" to the boiler.

Simple to fit as well as you would have a receiver that connects where your current thermostat is and then you put the wireless sender thermostat wherever you want.

Yeah that's all mine is, works great, move it anywhere, batteries last ages and I just use rechargeables.
 

Coops

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You don't need Hive or Ecobee if you just want to relocate your thermostat as they are smart thermostats.

If you don't need the smart/online features you can get wireless standard thermostats either new or cheaper off eBay.

This is assuming your current thermostat acts like a standard mechanical open/closed switch arrangement and doesn't "talk" to the boiler.

Simple to fit as well as you would have a receiver that connects where your current thermostat is and then you put the wireless sender thermostat wherever you want.
I believe I currently have a Honeywell T3 thermostat, one upstairs and one downstairs which work independently of each other. These are mains wired however I believe there is a receiver in my airing cupboard.

Would I just need to change the thermostat in the front bedroom to the receiver and place the wireless thermostat in the cold back bedroom so that it can turn on the heating when reaching the selected temperature? Then place a TVR on the front bedroom radiator I presume.
 

Vorbis

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I was looking at upgrading to a smart thermostat last year but the lack of TRV integration stopped me. Not really looked since. Maybe there's some new stuff on the market..m
 

Vorbis

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I currently use lightwave rf to control the system, not much in the way of smart functionality but I can turn the heating off remotely from Bermuda when my wife is abusing it (i.e turns it on when it's not even below zero outside 😅)
 

Fantazia2

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I was looking at upgrading to a smart thermostat last year but the lack of TRV integration stopped me. Not really looked since. Maybe there's some new stuff on the market..m
Ive got some Sonoff/Zigbe TRVs Im fitting once I get my heat pump install finished.

Im planning on linking them to Home Assisant so I can change the target temp for each room based on when it will be getting used.
 

GadgetFreak

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I've had a Netatmo for years. Always worked well for me and has a wireless external thermostat which helps it fire the boiler up earlier than scheduled to heat the house up to desired temp on time. It takes a few weeks to learn the house quickly your house warms up. They do also do the full TRV thing but I've never found the need in my house.
 

Phils Arcade

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If replacing single to double rads, check the output of your boiler can handle the extra area. I'd a 50/70 oil boiler and when adding a couple of doubles and and extra one when we extended the kitchen had to upgrade the boiler to 70/90 for the extra water needing to the heated.

For my workshop I've bought a second hand 90/120 for it's a large area that needs heating. Another job for when the weather starts to heat up.
 

stevebm1

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When I had my extension built years ago,we had issues with the rads not getting as warm as the ones in the main house,the plumber the builders used had installed 10mm pipes to feed the rads,we had our regular plumber who services our boiler come round and he said it should have been standard 15mm copper pipe for them not 10mm ,we got him to carry out the work and the extension rads were fine after
 

Phils Arcade

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When I had my extension built years ago,we had issues with the rads not getting as warm as the ones in the main house,the plumber the builders used had installed 10mm pipes to feed the rads,we had our regular plumber who services our boiler come round and he said it should have been standard 15mm copper pipe for them not 10mm ,we got him to carry out the work and the extension rads were fine after

10mm plastic is fine for certain applications, but the norm is 15mm. You also have 22mm as a main artery line before splitting off to the 15mm. Liquid tends to move quicker in the middle than round the outside due to friction against the surface of the pipe, hence thicker pipe allows better heat transfer. You also need a boiler to match that output, or the boiler won't be able to heat enough of the water before it leaves again.

Also useful are heat convertors that are fitted to the boiler output chimney. These capture some of the heat being evacuated from the exhaust gas given off.
 

Bods

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I'm still running the Gloworm Micron 60ff that I had installed in late 90s :) Hardly had an issue with it, only stopped working when water leaked from drain tap and ran down side onto control PCB, I repaired the board and it's still running the original pcb which has components you can replace easy, got a newer surface mount chips everything as backup if I need to repair this one, only other thing replaced is fan bearings and now fan units so cheap I replaced fan again last year
 
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