Bartop Arcade Jamma PCB Project! Donkey Kong!

KinkyWizard

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Hi All!

I have picked up a bit of an un-finished project from eBay off of a young lad who'd had his day at it... it's not in the best of conditions and I really need some advice about how to turn it into something that's worth showing off.

It is a Jamma PCB (Classic Arcades, 60 in 1) put inside of what looks like a 'slung together' bar top cabinet.

It has been attempted in the style of Pac Man... but I want to strip it all back and produce a bar top version of a classic Donkey Kong cab.

To start with I am enjoying playing around with the games on there (Donkey Kong especially) but I am also very keen to get cracking on this project as at the moment it's not the prettiest object to look at and it is sitting in our front room crying out for an authentic decent make over.

To start with I have photographed everything and posted the photos below to show you what I am starting with... I will make the relevant comments under the relating photos...

... really looking forward to receiving your expertise on how best to carry this project out...

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Above and below I have taken some photos of the manual that came with the board... I have no idea on how to change settings as the manual isn't very 'n00b' friendly...

What I want to achieve with the board is so it saves my high scores... at the moment it does save my high scores but the 3 letter name entry's is wiped when powered off, which is a shame.

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Any ideas on how I go about doing the things it mentions in the above pages?

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Above is the current state of the cab from a users point of view... the blurry photo prob does it more justice than it deserves... what is the best way to strip all the gloss paint and vinyl from this cab? I want to paint it the classic Donkey Kong Daphne / Marine Blue and achieve a high grade finish on it at the same time... very tempted to find a wood work specialist to do the job for me due to lack of work space and tools...

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A side shot above... crying out for artwork...

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Back shot above... the x2 screws in the top left and right are the only things holding this back board on... the whole cab seems to made out of some MDF wood.

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Above is close up photo of the edges of the cab... as you can see the last owner has just painted the edges, but I would like to try and achieve that classic T-cut moulding edge finish that the real cabs have... but as you can see there is no T-cut shape put into this cabinet... any advice on how I go about achieving the same style of finish of these edges?

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The above photo doesn't show it clear enough but the artwork has been printed off an inkjet printer (very pixelated) and then laminated and stuck on :-S

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The control stick I would like to replace... as it feels very very sensitive and is not the best when it comes to games like Burger Time or Pac Man as making sharp changes in direction can more than often end up with you heading in the completely opposite direction.

The stick has 8 directions to it but it rolls around in a 360 motion very easy and it is hard to find / feel a definite direction with it.

Is it me or should it feel / act like this?

Where is best to buy a replacement stick from? And what type of stick is best to get for this mini bartop style cab and for this type of PCB?

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Photos above shows the mess that is currently inside... more photos to follow below that shows the guts in more close up detail.

There seems to be a LOT of random wires that just lead to nowhere... as you can see hanging down in the left hand corner... is this normal?

I would also like to try and back light the marquee with LEDS strips... but I am no electrician and I wasn't sure if how to even go about doing this?

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Shot of what I think is the PCB...

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Another shot of the messy wires and what I think is the power supply?

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Old PC monitor I think? Stood up completely vertically. Not sure if it is best to have it stood up completely vertically or if it is best trying to achieve some sort of classic laid back approach (if you know what I mean by that) ???

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The biggest worry I have is gutting this thing as it stands in order to do the work I want to do to it... and then for whatever reason (I don't store the PCB safely enough or can't remember how to put it back together) that I can't get it working again. Any advice on this worry? How to do I store the guts and PCB whilst I do the work to the cab? And is this thing easy to put back together?

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Above is a shot of what someone else has done with the exact same style / shaped cabinet. This is an example of the standard / quality of finish that I am aiming for.

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Above obviously is the classic DK machine that I am trying to imitate... love it!

What do you guys think?

Too much of an ambitious project for a 'n00b' like myself?

Have I picked the right style to try and replicate on this mini bar top cab?

I picked this whole thing up for £200, do you think that was a fair price for what it is in it's current condition? No matter if not as I LOVE it, just really want it to look it's best.

Really looking forward to your help and advice all...

KinkyWizard2013-07-20 20:48:20
 

IDCHAPPY

KANFU Master
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The pcb doesn't seem to save the initials mate just the score, it's always been the issue with them 60 in 1's.
Looks ok and it's jamma wired with a proper power supply too.
Finding artwork for it shouldn't be too hard as well
smiley1.gif
IDCHAPPY2013-07-20 21:03:56
 

KinkyWizard

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Ah OK, I thought that might be the case with regards to the initials, no worries as it does save my high scores though.

Not sure where to start with this project... the last two photos are not mine just to point out as I posted those last 2 as examples. Haven't started this project yet... need advice on it.

I have vector artwork files for the classic DK cabs apart from the control panel artwork which I can't find in vector (Adobe Illustrator) format.KinkyWizard2013-07-20 21:10:47
 

Big Phil

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I've never attempted anything like this so can't offer the best advice but looking at what you're trying to achieve, I think you're better off buying a plain mdf kit? I don't know if anyone on here sells them but you can get them on ebay.

Anyone else?
 

KinkyWizard

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Brilliant! Thanks for the artwork link ZedEx! Just what I have been looking for. What vinyl is best to print onto? I have access to a Roland Versa Cam cutter at work that is a great printer and auto cutter and I know how to set up files to run off from it... just need to work out what's the best Vinyl to use. There is so many different types and names of Vinyl :-S

With regards to the cab case itself Phil are you suggesting a new one because of the lack of T-cut in the one I have (photographed above) ???

Structure wise it is fine it just needs stripping back to basics and then some professional love pouring into it.

I do think it's going to be impossible to though to put the T-cut groove into he edges of the cabinet for several reasons... but then again I haven't seen these MDF bartop cabs for sale on there own as a shell to compare with... if I found one the right style and with the T-cut grooves already in at the right price I would buy it to replace the one that currently houses everything... but it would have to be at the right price... can't find any on eBay, just been looking.

KinkyWizard2013-07-21 11:30:11
 

Big Phil

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I was on about replacing the mdf shell because you were talking about stripping the paint. Think it could be a lot of effort.

Anyone offer advice on the groove for the T-Moulding?
 

KinkyWizard

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Yeah I hear what your saying Phil. It's really about if I can find a better more suitable alternative shell for the right price otherwise I might just have to stick with the one I have to keep costs down. Don't wanna pump to much money into it as it is only a 60 in 1 PCB which I understand is a just MAME board?

I think if I sand off the gloss top layer and coat in with 2 or 3 layers of grey primer before I apply the Daphne DK blue, which I am going to have to go to B&Q I think to have it Pantone matched and mixed especially, then it should achieve the desired finish.

If anyone has a links to a good UK based retailer who sells MDF shells?

With regards to the joystick issues that I mentioned in my first post above I was wondering what out of the following would be best suited from Arcade World UK?

http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Classic-Ball-Top-Arcade-Joystick.html - this is advertised as a cheap alternative to some of the more well known makes like 'Swana' and on this listing it mentions that it is suitable for JAMMA boards... but I don't wanna get a cheap stick that is just gonna be the same as what I have in it already... I need to solve this over sensitive direction change issue that I am getting.

http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Sanwa-JLF-TM-8T-Ball-Top-Joystick.html - this stick sounds like it is a quality stick but no mention if it suitable for JAMMA boards... ???

http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/categories/Arcade-Parts/Joysticks/ - there are a LOT of sticks listed and I think the classic SHORT ball top style is what I am looking for but don't know what to get... any advice?

KinkyWizard2013-07-21 13:45:11
 

Big Phil

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Sanding and priming is a cheaper alternative. You can buy the shells on ebay but if you're looking at producing a mini arcade machine you're better off finding a "joiner" mate who could do it cheaper for you
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IDCHAPPY

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To be honest you need to stick a restrictor plate on the stick you have, most old games usually used a 4 way stick, modern ones used 8 directions, it's the same on my candies, trying to find the proper direction can be a pain in the ass
smiley36.gif
 

KinkyWizard

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Ill try and get a better photo tomorrow evening. I had a quick hunt for a 4 direction restrictor plate but I could only see 2 way (left and right) and also ones to aid in smoothing out an 8 way stick. Do you have any links to a 4 way one that would be suitable? Thanks.
 

KinkyWizard

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Here are some some photos of the stick that was inside the cab... has some Chinese markings and also the initials J.A on the plate.

I think the yellow thing shown in the photo of the underneath of the stick is a restrictor plate???

Either way I have since worked out that there are a few 8-way direction games on the PCB anyway, so I'll just stay with the stick as is if it's a good brand stick? Not to fussed on the pink ball top though, might replace that if not the whole stick.

There is a photo here also of the cab with everything stripped out... man whoever made this must have literally thrown it together in minuets! Came across so many 'bodge jobs' and short cuts and there were a lot of random screws that had no purpose inside this thing, just been put through the size of the cab by mistake it looks and then plastered over :-S

Another discovery is that the black paint on it wasn't black paint... but black vinyl - yuk!

I have stripped the whole thing right down to it's individual MDF panels, fill the holes, sand down, prime and then paint to a nice finish (hopefully)

Need to work out how to put this thing back together so it sits straight also as it had a slight wobble to it before I took it apart but as soon as I got the roof panel out the wobble disappeared, which means some part of it wasn't straight when it was originally screwed together.

... a lot of work ahead of me now... and I am missing the games already (lol)

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