Blast City Replacement CP advice required.....

JAG555

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Hello,

I am in the process of making some improvements to my recently purchased Sega Blast City Candy Cab.

As part of this work, I ordered a new 6 button Control Panel. This is an after market third party CP, which I think is made by Sanwa. I bought this from Arcade Parts UK.

Anyway, it was all going great until I tried to fix the new joysticks to the CP. There are no threads in the screw holes (like there are on the original Sega CP), they are just blank holes. I assume this is not correct ' faulty and I have e-mailed Arcade World UK for a replacement CP, with threaded holes (still awaiting a reply, but only sent yesterday to be fair).

However, I just wondered if anyone else had any experience with these CPs and fixing the joysticks?

Any advice greatly welcomed. I know I could probably add the thread to the holes, but to be honest, metal work is not on my skills list
smiley1.gif
and it mentions nothing in the description about having to do this yourself. The CP was not cheap, so I am expected this to be a straight swap.

Cheers

John
 

Flinnster

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Not done a blast city, but my panels are just plain holes too. The buttons themselves have a screw on circular type plastic nut that holds them to the panel.
 

Brettster

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Sega panels should have 4 m4 sized bolts welded or mechanically pressed into the cp so that you cannot see them with the overlay on them
Sanwa panels are no exception and are highly polished / mirror finished on the underside
I've seen other panels that have more than 4 bolts on them to accept different types of sticks but I've never seen one where you have to add your own bolts

Post up a pic of it if you can
 

JAG555

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Thanks both for the replies.

Here are the pictures of both the bracket on the underside of the CP (all holes are just blank, no screw thread).

The second picture is the new joystick and the play that it came with. This plate also has no threads.

Cheers
image.jpeg
 

JAG555

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Thanks for the reply.

The buttons go in fine. It's the joystick I am having issues with, as there is nowhere for the screws to.

How do your joystick attach if your screw holes are also blank??

Cheers
 

Flinnster

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Ah I see what you mean now. Perhaps they are supposed to have an m4 nut under the hole in the mounting plate, and an m4 bolt for the connection?
 

JAG555

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Yes, I guess that would work. However, the original Sega Blast City board has a very similar bracket, but the screw holes have a thread. The screws go straight through the plastic base of the joystick and screw into the bracket.

Personally, I think these should of been threaded, but I could be wrong. However, Arcade Parts UK should stated that some M4 bolts were required and I also would of expected some to have been included.

Cheers
 

penrhos

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I've seen panels the same - you have to hold a nut in the gap with a pair of thin nosed pliers while you tighten them up, the three holes are so you can fit sticks with different mounts.

They're a PITA.
 

cosine

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Yeah I had the same problem with my 2L12B panel from arcade world, I bought a screw/bolt pack from B&Q, and did what penrhos said.
smiley24.gif
 

JAG555

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Many thanks for the reply too. It would be nice if Arcade World would tell you this in the item description or even provide a pack of bolts with it. Strange in my opinion that it is different to the original Sega CP, especially when it is licenced.

Cheers
 

paulie

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That's how the Sanwa panels come.
As previously said they are a bit of a faff, especially if mounting a bare JLF. I usually just hold the nut with pliers under the mount whilst tightening the screw up.
 

Brettster

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Ah thanks for posting the pic, i understand now. you could tap some threads I guess but so much easier to just add the nuts to the back as mentioned
 

JAG555

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Thanks all for the replies, really appreciate it. Off to get screws and bolts now.

Quick additional question, how do I know which way up to mount the joystick (i.e. So up is up)? Is it just trial and error?
 

Mr20to5

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It doesn't matter. When you connect the woring loom each connector will have a direction attributed to the wire.

Edit. Stupid phone deleted half the post.

So if your stick has individual switches just attach the wires in the right order from the loom.

neil16372016-11-20 11:02:47
 

cosine

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JAG555 said:
Thanks all for the replies, really appreciate it. Off to get screws and bolts now.

Quick additional question, how do I know which way up to mount the joystick (i.e. So up is up)? Is it just trial and error?
If you're using Sanwa JLF's with the 5 pin connector, then yeah, trial and error, as the mounting direction on the licensed panel differs from the sega one. I have a original Sega 2L8B panel, and the joystick mounts are horizontal.
cosine2016-11-20 11:28:58
 

JAG555

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cosine said:
JAG555 said:
Thanks all for the replies, really appreciate it. Off to get screws and bolts now.

Quick additional question, how do I know which way up to mount the joystick (i.e. So up is up)? Is it just trial and error?
If you're using Sanwa JLF's with the 5 pin connector, then yeah, trial and error, as the mounting direction on the licensed panel differs from the sega one. I have a original Sega 2L8B panel, and the joystick mounts are horizontal.

Thanks for the reply.

However, I am still having issues with the mount as the M4 screws are too big for the holes. I think I will wait for Arcade World to get back to me tomorrow before I start butchering with the CP. Maybe smaller bolts and a washer would do it. Do they do M3?
smiley36.gif
 

JAG555

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Thanks to all for the replies. I managed to get some M3 screw and bolts, which appear to fit. However, the screws are typically too long, so I will try and cut them down.

A simple CP swap is starting to become very frustrating, but hopefully nearly sorted.

Thanks again.
 

JAG555

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I just wanted to update everyone and close this thread out.

The M3 Bolts / Nuts (12mm long) worked perfectly to attach the joysticks. I had to order these on-line, as ones in my local hardware store were too long and I didn't want to fiddle around cutting them down to size. As advised above, I used long thin pillars to hold the nut in place, while screwing the bolt down.

I just wanted to say a big thanks for those taking the time to reply. Oh and Andy at Arcade World UK did reply to me too to confirm the above.

Cheers
 
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