Defender Power Supply

[Judder]

Thanks Andy and yes that would make some sense huh!?!

Do you sell or know who does the pins for the 12 way plug that connects to the 12 way socket on the top of the transformer?

I'd like to make a nice job of bridging the White/Red wires from US configuration to UK configuration by removing the existing US two jumper wires and putting in a single one as described at the top.

The problem I have is even with long nosed pliers I never seem to be able to pull out the pins once they are 'locked' into the socket so they tend to end up getting mangled on the way :-/

Thanks again!

Alex

 

[tb lilley]

Try here: http://www.coin.demon.co.uk/conectrs.htm#5

 

[andyman]

And get yourself a pin extractor, they're cheap

 

[Judder]

And get yourself a pin extractor, they're cheap

Never even knew they existed! £4.99 off eBay sorted

 

[Judder]

Try here: http://www.coin.demon.co.uk/conectrs.htm#5

Many thanks

 

[Judder]

Quick question on this one

I'm about to test out the newly wired harness with my rebuilt power-supply, converted from US jumpers to UK jumpers as per the start of this forum, and think it prudent to check the 115V supply to the monitor _before_ plugging it in.

Can I [very very carefully from 6 foot away] connect the multimeter to either pin on the molex connector to read the voltage being sent before connecting it?

I know for example on my 12V car battery I can read volts from the +ve to the -ve terminals so assume this should be the same?

FYI pictures of the Jumpers before and after below [and if you do buy a pin extractor tool set, buy the expensive 6 size one on eBay [£69 odd quid] as the female pins are slightly different size to the male ones and needed a different tool to extract].

Before: (2 - 6 and 4 - 5)

After: (2 - 5)

Judder2012-05-10 11:02:27

 

[andyman]

and if you do buy a pin extractor tool set, buy the expensive 6 size one on eBay [£69 odd quid] as the female pins are slightly different size to the male ones and needed a different tool to extract

Huh ?, mine does both sides male & female and only cost me $10

Jumpers look ok too, test away

 

[Judder]

Huh ?, mine does both sides male & female and only cost me $10

Jumpers look ok too, test away

Thanks Andy

For clarification first I bought this RadioShack one which does the Male pins fine, but no amount of shoving or wiggling could get it to release the female ones (I even checked when I had removed one and it couldn't quite fit around the barbs to press them in).

I then bought the set in the second picture and the Green one did the job perfectly.

Hope that helps others and thanks for checking the jumpers - testing time this afternoon

Original pin extractor tool

New pin extractor set

 

[Judder]

Quick question on this for tb or Andy if you are still following this thread

I'm going to rebuild the PSU I have for my Defender with a Bob Roberts rebuild kit as I think it is having problems under load causing the game to crash, and want to get a spare PSU board to use while I do so.

On offer I can either get a standard Defender one, or the later Williams Robotron one with the heat sink as a separate unit.

Anyone got preferences on reliability or choice (price is about the same)?

My thoughts are that the later Robotron one might be more reliable (but nothing but an old KLOV post implicating that to be true to back it up!)

Many thanks!

Alex

 

[tb lilley]

I don't think there's much to choose between them. I've rebuilt Robotron and Defender power supply boards, and both have been 100% reliable. I suppose that since Robotron came later then it's a more reliable design .... Me? I'd keep it original and stick with Defender.

 

[Judder]

Thanks tb - original it is

BTW can you remember what resistance that variable resistor you used on your board above was?

I think from the schematics the original resistor is something like an 11k so something like a 20k pot would probably work...

 

[tb lilley]

Install 5k pot at R2 to adjust +5VDC.

 

[chadsarcade]

I don't think there's much to choose between them.

The Robotron PSU has over voltage protection (OVP) built in, where the Defender one does not. This is a nice thing to have if you're running with 4116 RAM. Of course, the form factor of the 2 PSUs is different with Robotron having the separate heatsink, and this might make the decision moot.

You can get a plugin OVP board for the Defender PSU; this was shipped with Stargates.

 

[Judder]

I don't think there's much to choose between them.

The Robotron PSU has over voltage protection (OVP) built in, where the Defender one does not. This is a nice thing to have if you're running with 4116 RAM. Of course, the form factor of the 2 PSUs is different with Robotron having the separate heatsink, and this might make the decision moot.

You can get a plugin OVP board for the Defender PSU; this was shipped with Stargates.

Good call on that

Yes, reading the manuals the later PSU also came with a later Transformer that had 12 secondary terminals on it rather than 9 secondary terminals with the standard Defender one.

Therefore I think a Defender board is going to be significantly less hassle for me, even without the overvoltage protection, also as the Robotron and later boards seem to only have 2 mount points for screws with the Defender ones having three.

Below is the information for reference:

[font="Courier New, Courier, mono"]"NEW POWER SUPPLY BOARD[/font]

[font="Courier New, Courier, mono"]Early "Stargate" games had a one piece D-8359 Power Supply Board
	Assembly.  In "Robotron" and later "Stargate" games, this assembly has
	been superseded by the new D-8474 Power Board and outboard heat sink
	assembly C-8807.  The new board features crowbar overvoltage protection
	on the +12vdc and +5vdc regulated outputs.
	
	NEW TRANSFORMER
	On upright and cabaret model games, a new power transformer with 8
	primary and 12 secondary terminals (part no. 5610-09658) has also been
	substituted for the old transformer with 8 primary and 9 secondary
	terminals (part no. 5610-09353).  The new transformer includes a 12.6v
	center-tapped secondary.  Secondary terminal 20 and center-tap terminal
	19 provide 6.3vac general illumination power to pins 14 and 15 of plug
	4P1.  Cocktail table model games continue to use a third power
	transformer with 6 primary and 9 secondary terminals (part no.
	5610-09629)
	
	UPRIGHT GAMES
	New Transformer - new Power Supply:  W1 in, W2 & W3 out.
	Old Transformer - new Power Supply:  W2 & W3 in, W1 out and 2 ohm 5W
	resistor added at R27.  Pins 13, 14, & 15 of 4J1 are left disconnected
	when transformer secondary plug is connected.
	New Transformer - old Power Supply:  Pins 13, 14, and 15 of 4P1
	(transformer secondary connector) are unterminated at Power Supply 4J1
	12-pin connector."[/font]

 

[Judder]

It's a funny old cab. The control panel is sparkling, as is the marquee and bezel. I'm hoping a small repair to the front, then get it up off the ground with some new legs, and it'll be good to go. The boards are out for repair, due back soon. Cab bought as a shell, but I had a spare set of boards (non working) anyway. Also have a full repro wiring harness to connect it all together.

Hi TB

Quick question for you (as always

)

I've got my Defender PSU converted as yours and I'm trying to replace the neon strip bulb, but so far with the two I have tried they both come on very briefly after about 4/5 seconds and then appear to blow.

The spec of the tubes is exactly the same as the one I have - F14T12/CW - so 14 inches long, fitment type 12 in cool white but I'm wondering if they don't like the 110V they are getting from the transformer for some reason (I measured the voltages and they are getting 110/120V at the back).

PMan mentioned a while ago that the hertz / cycles of the power can cause some issues but not quite sure what to do here as blowing the tubes at £10 odd each a go gets quite expensive, quite quickly!

Any thoughts and help much appreciated!

Judder

 

[tb lilley]

As your Defender, like mine, is a US import, the ballast will be for 110V 60Hz. You'll be feeding it 110V, 50Hz - as UK mains electricity supply is about 230V at 50 Hz. The transformer will step the 230V down to 110V - but the 50Hz will remains the same.

All of that said, it should still run ok for longer than 4-5 seconds. Strictly speaking, you shouldn't run it at all, because I believe there's a fire risk. But even so, it shouldn't be popping tubes. There's not much to it. Ballast, starter, tube. Could be that there's a fault with the ballast. You need to replace it anyway really, so try to track down a 110V 50Hz ballast.

Edit: Either way, it's not going to be the tubes.tb lilley2013-09-08 14:30:41

 

[andrew96]

look on old jukebox sites for the ballasts, they work fine at 50hz without any troubles, if they buzz quite a bit then pour some shellac into them, that works well as have done it to several jukebox ballasts in the past. nice and silent!

 

[andrew96]

http://www.jukeboxparts.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=555

 

[andrew96]

or for the lower wattage tubes

http://www.jukeboxparts.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=554

 

[andrew96]

also often overlooked is you need a 110v starter not a 240v one, so in the uk the best way to buy one is one marked up for use in twin units, they will have stated on them either 240v single or 110v twin. so starters are much easier to get hold of.