Dragons Lair Control Panel Overlay Artwork Recreation.

conan

Newbie
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1 (100%)
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137CR
Im currently restoring a Dragons Lair and had in the past removed my old and damaged overlay and replaced it with a Quater Arcade version (as many have). Unfortunately the panel has delaminated in a number of places so its time to replace it. I was never very impressed with the quality of it in the first place and there are no good alternatives or anything available that comes close to the original.
This time im not using anybody elses, Im making my own.
As a bit of a background I have been a games artist in one shape or another for years, first game was ELF on the Amiga and Atari ST. Ive done loads of game box art front covers & magazine covers / ads too, so I hopefully have the skills to get this to a good place.
The original CPO was printed as a 4 colour process (CMYK) with overlapping coloured dots that use Cyan, Magenta, Yellow & Black to create what the eye perceives to be a full colour image. White is the substrate being printed onto so where you dont print creates the highlights.
Untitled-1.jpg

As the original artwork to the CPO has never materialised all we have to work with (other than the one sketch I purchased from Jason Finn of the front lower section) are scans and photography taken from original control panels. Those scans and captures by default include the CMYK printing process dot pattern.

IMG_5003.jpg
Original Don Bluth sketch of the lower portion of the control panel.

There are at least two (likely more) versions available, printed from a scan found on Dragons Lair Fans and this is what all printers (Ebay sellers) are using to print from.
The other is a very old scan that Quarter Arcade in the USA bought from ‘This Old Game’ years ago and then sold through with no further copies being available.

All current versions that I have seen are (in my opinion) compromised in colour, image quality and accuracy.

The Quarter Arcade version is a reflection of the technology used at the time of capture. The scan is terrible by today’s standards, edge detail is is non-existent and the colours are completely wrong, the art is not cropped correctly from side to side and a large portion of the edge of the art is missing. The ‘SWORD’ text uses the correct (scanned) font and there are no cut out black holes like the original, however, the overall quality is unfortunately very poor.
ORIGINAL QA VERSION SCAN lowres.jpg

The Dragons Lair Fans version is closer to a correct colour match but horrendously over saturated and has an incorrect font used for the ‘SWORD’ text and the 1 & 2 Player icons are the wrong shape. The scanner used was a lower quality unit as can be seen in the chromatic aberration (green and red fringing) visible throughout the image, but especially obvious on the snake and knight.

Black hole cut out marks have also been added making exact alignment with the control panel a requirement in order to fit the art properly.

I have seen derivative versions of this artwork where the black holes have been filled in but the art retains the extreme over saturation of colour and chromatic fringing. The black bars, top middle and bottom are razor sharp and do not contain any edge texture that should be present. This is the same for the knight icons and the ‘SWORD’ text.

It is cropped correctly to the sides but not top and bottom.
DLF VERSION lowres.jpg
DLF VERSION SCAN lowres detail1.jpg
As you can see there is green and red fringing to the image from a cheap scanner head.
When compared to my original scans and photographic reference its easy to see how over saturated the entire thing is too.
NOS-Control-Panel-Overlay-2.jpg

And now there is my version that’s been generated from old scans and new scans from a number of sources.
I did reach out to the guy who had the original scans used in the DLF version but he had sadly lost them and I wanted to sart from a clean and accurate slate.

I have worked hard to replicate the colour pallett of the original and dial in as much detail as possible, giving a clear crisp image with natural colours that are not over saturated.
Its got the correct font used for 'SWORD' and the correct shaped knight icons in the correct positions. There are no cutout holes making mounting it much less tricky.

Here are some comparisons of the three versions.
Comp001.jpg
Quater Arcade Left, DLF Center, My version Right.
Comp002.jpg
Quater Arcade Left, DLF Center, My version Right.

And the complete image.

final lowresoo1.jpg

Due to the scans being from a CMYK output what you see is pretty much what you will get from the printer.

I’m currently having it digitally output onto Lexan and have spent quite some time tracking down the correct thickness and texture of material I think was used in the original.
Should have the printed CPO back next week ready for install on the control panel.
 
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BlueAdept

Newbie
Credits
5CR
/wave DN! It's Brian.
The purple is way off with all the repos.
As you can see, this is a proto, an original, and my original painting.

If you can get it to look like the original, I would like to buy one. My repo bothers me every time I look at it.
 

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Mikonos11

Active member
Credits
89CR
Hi Conan!

I like seeing other users tackle more complex restoration projects. I worked on the copy you're working on a while ago, and one of the things I did was recover the details of the bramble bush, as it seemed too dark to me.

I think this art has some very significant problems caused by an unknown artist who tried to fix some things incorrectly. I think you know what they are, but I don't understand why you haven't mentioned them, since they'll be noticeable in the print and anyone interested in a copy might be disappointed.

Let's look at some of them:

Blurry areas affecting the main drawing
Dragons-lair- CPO-Problem1.jpg


Overlapping of poorly sized silhouettes
Dragons-lair- CPO-Problem2.jpg


Poor assembly and cloning work
Dragons-lair- CPO-Problem3.jpg


Personally, I believe that if someone is genuinely interested in a new copy of this artwork for the control panel, they should start with a new scan and have the restoration work done by someone with proven experience and expertise in restoration—someone like me (I hate to be immodest, but I haven't found anyone like me since I started restoring, when I was less experienced than I am now).

I also believe that simply changing the color of a file like this and printing it on high-tack vinyl so it doesn't peel off isn't the solution to meet the demand for new pieces of this type. Keep in mind that the reason traditional companies have stopped producing them is precisely because of customer complaints and their inability to perform decent restorations.

My intention isn't to discourage anyone, not even you, but we shouldn't be misled about the quality of the material we're working with.

Cheers!
 
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BlueAdept

Newbie
Credits
5CR
I have a scanner now. So when I get time (probably won't be for a while though) I will do a montage of the artwork (better than I did before) and try to get a more complete/correct image. With photoshop I am able to fix the position of the snake and dirk, but I am not happy with certain sections of it. It is a pain since I don't know photoshop real well but the one I already did looks good.
What will hurt the project is the lower section. Since I done have that painting of the sword, I will have to see if AI can sharpen and increase the resolution.
I am in talks with someone that still produces the control panel. He gave me his scans that he uses but they are not nearly the quality of the scans of the panel. I tried AI to increase the depth, fix the color but it screws up dirks face. So I need a better scan of the sword. I am going to try to scan the A1up sword panel to see if I can work with that.
 

Mikonos11

Active member
Credits
89CR
I'm going to write down how to scan the control panel in a tutorial that I'll send to all the fans of my restoration work who request my help. It's a series of points so I can do my restoration work better and faster.

*My intention isn't for me to do this restoration work if those interested don't trust me; rather, if someone takes on this project, I want them to do it correctly. So I'm providing the information without obligation.

I'm adding a note before posting the tutorial: This work needs to be scanned at 600 dpi to have room to maneuver when correcting certain parts and reconstructing the holes for buttons, joystick, and screws, which is something I always do, because all that dot pattern has to be hand-painted to fill the gaps.

Another important thing: due to the folds in this control panel, the control panel overlay needs to be removed with heat and scanned flat.

Where can you get this done without breaking the panel into pieces? At an auto body shop, by heating the entire panel evenly to soften the original adhesive and easily remove it in one piece. Therefore, I don't recommend anyone attempt this without experience.

Now, here's the tutorial:

How To do A Perfect Scanning Work:

0) Disable auto-cropping and any other effects that alter the raw file (for example, autofocus)

1) Scan at 600 DPI and tiff, bmp or png format if you can. If not, 300 dpi.
2) Clean piece to scan so well, with alcohol in some cases.
3) Clean the Scan machine's glass with a cotton cloth and alcohol (almost the first time). Clean all around of the scan machine too with some wet piece of cloth.
4) IMPORTANT: Scan in complete darkness. Turn off your computer monitor or turn back/down. This way you can avoid brightness differences between scanned files.
5) Press piece against scan machine's glass. If you can down the cap, put some weight over it in a homogeneous way, but press the piece lightly for to avoid burred scan files.
6) Clean the piece and scan machine's glass every 2 scan for to remove dust.
7) IMPORTANT: Overlap 5 cms (2 inches approx.) between scan files.
8) Don't change scan machine orientation for to scan. If you started taking horizontal scanned files, follow with the same orientation and without turn 90º or 180º your machine.


Best Regards


Mikonos (Zona Arcade's Webmaster)
 
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