Electricity question

kingtreelo

Active member
vacBacker
Feedback
18 (100%)
Credits
1,529CR
So hopefully, i am aiming to have a new outbuilding built in the next few months, just had the electrician out and he asked me what voltage the machines run off, the electricity tot his new building will be from my mains board and have its own circuit board in the building to isolate it.

It then got me thinking, do i need anything special in between and do i need an individual socket for each machine or can i purchase some special extension for more than one to be plugged into?
 

Fantazia2

Active member
vacBacker
Feedback
13 (100%)
Credits
2,205CR
Not sure I would trust that electrician if hes asking about voltage for the machines, supply would have to be 240v unless you've got a 3 phase supply to your house, but then highly unlikely that you would have a machine that needed 3 phase short of you owning an R360. Its not like he can supply a 110v voltage for the building without running through a very large transformer.

Was he maybe asking how much current they would use?

Dont think you need anything special inbetween but I would recommend going for as an oversized armoured cable that what you expect to need, as if its too small it can cause the breakers to trip.

If setting up from scratch and you know where the games will be I would get 1 double socket per 2 games with some extras just in case you need to plug something else in as well or move things about, you could run 4 way strips but you would need to check what machines you are plugging into it so you dont go over the 13amp rating on the extension cord, or lower depending on its rating.
 

kingtreelo

Active member
vacBacker
Feedback
18 (100%)
Credits
1,529CR
Not sure I would trust that electrician if hes asking about voltage for the machines, supply would have to be 240v unless you've got a 3 phase supply to your house, but then highly unlikely that you would have a machine that needed 3 phase short of you owning an R360. Its not like he can supply a 110v voltage for the building without running through a very large transformer.

Was he maybe asking how much current they would use?

Dont think you need anything special inbetween but I would recommend going for as an oversized armoured cable that what you expect to need, as if its too small it can cause the breakers to trip.

If setting up from scratch and you know where the games will be I would get 1 double socket per 2 games with some extras just in case you need to plug something else in as well or move things about, you could run 4 way strips but you would need to check what machines you are plugging into it so you dont go over the 13amp rating on the extension cord, or lower depending on its rating.
may have been me making the mistake, he mentioned 13amp not voltage

see, i would normally say "is amp not voltage", but i am guessing they are not related at all, which is why i'm paying a qualified electrician to do the work

he is going to sort the lights and sockets out for the space, i just didnt know whether to ask for a load of sockets or i could run stuff off extensions, or even how long cords are on arcade machines, that may also be something i need to consider if i cant use extensions

i literally have no knowledge of electrics other than changing plugs
 

channel27

Active member
vacBacker
Feedback
12 (100%)
Credits
1,290CR
I've got a 16A supply running to my garage from the house. The only issue I've had is the inrush current that 2 of the machines draw as they're being switched on. Sometimes, the MCB in the house would trip. Upping the MCB to 32A wasn't an option so I added NTC thermistors to the cabs mains wiring to limit the current. They're commonly used in pinball machines to do the same thing.
No tripping since, touch wood.
 

Fantazia2

Active member
vacBacker
Feedback
13 (100%)
Credits
2,205CR
If its not installed already I would say its always better to have a single socket per machine and not use extensions where possible.

Pretty much every cab is going to be on standard UK plug which will be max 13amps but each cab will have its own rating and most will be a lot lower than that.

Do you have all the cabs already or a wish list of what you want to get, you could check the manuals and see what their power rating is and add it all up, at a guess most general cabs would be somewhere between 3amps and 5amps, but bigger things like a sit down motorised cab will be more.

Depending on what you want/need you may need 2 circuits if the amperage of all the cabs is too much for a single ring main.

Volts, Amps and Watts are all seperate things but are used together.

Power (Watts) = Voltage x current (Amps)
 

bones

Active member
Feedback
15 (100%)
Credits
1,626CR
Don't know the current regulations but 10 years ago my mate needed power in shed. So he broke into his kitchen ring main added a 16amp breaker(isolation)and run a spur out about 7 metres directly into 2 double sockets in the shed. But he was only ever running a couple of lights and one power tool at a time and his beer fridge lol
The cable run was in 25mm metal conduit around the bottom of his fence.
You might get away with a standard 32 amp ring main run out compliantly(conduit or ducting)
If it's a big build maybe consider installing it's own consumer unit with a 40 or 60 amp cable.
In regards to your machines it's all about what current they draw individually. I'd always prefer a separate socket for each machine but for example in the arcades the fruit machines only drew a max of 2 amps each so it was perfectly acceptable to use a 4 gang extension and fill it(13amp max)
. Obviously you can work out your current drawn by your machine's specs ie. 240v and say it says 500 Watts and ( power= volts x amps) so by adjusting that you can see that amps= power divided by volts so you'd be looking at just over 2 amps, calculator says 2.083333333amps but this formula is the rule off thumb but you may know that anyway. As long as you know the value of 2 you can calculate the 3rd.
. So you could make a list of everything thing using the electric that you are going to have in there and work out exactly how much current(amps) you'd need if everything is turned on and running, the very max. This final total alone would make any electricians job much easier to calculate and quote/advise what you would need to do to comply with current regulations thus keeping it safe and insurance companies happy.
 

NivagSwerdna

Active member
Feedback
1 (100%)
Credits
744CR
Sounds like you were talking at cross purposes... the question could relate to phases... i.e. were you after 400V rather than 230V

It's not a good sign you didn't understand each other!

As above you need to work out how much current you plan to sink as this will determine the thickness of the bit of wire required to get the voltages there..

So... how many machines... how many fan heaters to keep you toasty in winter etc... you need to come up with a guesstimate for how much current you'll be using.

According to my imaginary friend...

... a typical classic arcade machine (from the 80s/90s) draws between 1.5 to 3.0 Amps when running on a 240V circuit.

However, the exact number depends heavily on the era and type of machine. Let's break it down.


1. Classic Arcade Machines (1980s - 1990s)​

These are the standard upright cabinets like Pac-Man, Street Fighter II, or Ms. Pac-Man.

  • Typical Power Draw: 300 - 600 Watts
  • Amperage Calculation:
    • Low end: 300W / 240V = ~1.25 A
    • High end: 600W / 240V = ~2.5 A
  • Why the range? A simpler game like Pac-Man uses a low-wattage monitor and a simple PCB, drawing less power. A larger, more powerful monitor (like in a Neo Geo MVS cabinet) or a more complex game board will draw more.

2. Modern Arcade Machines (Racing Games, Light Gun Shooters, etc.)​

These are the large, deluxe machines found in modern arcades.

  • Typical Power Draw: 600 - 1,200+ Watts
  • Amperage Calculation:
    • Standard: 800W / 240V = ~3.3 A
    • High end (e.g., a deluxe racer with force feedback, big subwoofer): 1200W / 240V = ~5.0 A
  • Why so high? These machines often contain a powerful PC, multiple amplified speakers, large displays (sometimes multiple), and strong motors for force feedback.

3. Pinball Machines (Solid-State / Early Digital, 1990s - Today)​

Pinball machines have solenoids, coils, and motors that create significant inrush current when they fire.

  • Typical Power Draw: 200 - 400 Watts (average, but with high momentary spikes)
  • Amperage Calculation:
    • Average: 300W / 240V = ~1.25 A
    • Important Note: The inrush current (the instantaneous spike when a coil activates) can be 5 to 10 times higher than the average draw for a split second. This is why dedicated circuits are often recommended.

Summary Table​

Machine TypeTypical Power (Watts)Amps @ 240V (Approx.)Key Considerations
Classic Arcade (80s/90s)300W - 600W1.25A - 2.5ASimple, reliable power draw.
Modern Deluxe Arcade600W - 1200W+2.5A - 5.0A+Contains PCs, large amps, and motors.
Pinball Machine200W - 400W (avg)1.0A - 1.7A (avg)High inrush current spikes. Requires a robust circuit.

Practical Advice & Safety​

  1. Check the Nameplate: The most accurate way to know is to look for the manufacturer's label or nameplate on the back of the machine. It will state the voltage, frequency (Hz), and often the amperage or wattage directly.
  2. Startup vs. Running: Machines draw more power (inrush current) for a second or two when first turned on. Your circuit needs to handle this brief spike.
  3. Circuit Breakers: A standard circuit in many regions is 10A or 16A at 240V. This means you could theoretically run 3-4 classic arcade machines or 2 modern machines on a single 10A circuit. However, it's always best practice not to exceed 80% of the circuit's capacity for continuous load.
    • Example: On a 10A circuit, don't draw more than 8A continuously. This would be 3 classic machines (3 * 2.5A = 7.5A).
  4. Use a Power Meter: For absolute precision, you can use a plug-in power meter (like a Kill-A-Watt). This will tell you the exact wattage and amperage your specific machine uses.
In conclusion, for planning purposes, you can safely estimate that a single classic arcade machine will use about 2-3 Amps on a 240V circuit. Always err on the side of caution and check the specific machine's requirements.


Have fun
 

kingtreelo

Active member
vacBacker
Feedback
18 (100%)
Credits
1,529CR
just to add, i don't plan on having more than one or two cabs turned on at once, i'm not opening Liverpool Arcade Club

some great info in here though, thanks for all the responses
 

kingtreelo

Active member
vacBacker
Feedback
18 (100%)
Credits
1,529CR
It's not a good sign you didn't understand each other!
It's more i didn't understand what he was saying to me, he asked how many machines i was planning on putting in there, which i presume is where the thickness of the wire question comes in, i told him 8, i have no plans to have that many but always best to over egg the pudding

the most modern cab that will be going in there will be a candy cab, i'll aim for 8-10 sockets and take it from there, that way it looks like i should be covered for any other extra bits and bobs i may want to add later on(TV, consoles etc etc)
 

Bods

Senior Member
vacBacker
Feedback
4 (100%)
Credits
4,738CR
Would have thought the most important question would be if you were thinking of heating and how many machines you thinking of Max

Amps surely would be the most important question here
 

John Bennett

Senior Member
vacBacker
Feedback
10 (100%)
Credits
5,003CR
Yeah, they don’t draw a lot of current, it’s the inrush spike that’ll upset things sometimes. If they’re on individual sockets and you turn them on seperately, that’s not an issue.

As said, he probably needs to gauge the cable and MCB from the house distribution box too. Dunno how much more 32A is over 16A.
Have you got enough spare slots, what with the EV charger and the whole house on one DB?
 

kingtreelo

Active member
vacBacker
Feedback
18 (100%)
Credits
1,529CR
Yeah, they don’t draw a lot of current, it’s the inrush spike that’ll upset things sometimes. If they’re on individual sockets and you turn them on seperately, that’s not an issue.

As said, he probably needs to gauge the cable and MCB from the house distribution box too. Dunno how much more 32A is over 16A.
Have you got enough spare slots, what with the EV charger and the whole house on one DB?
Yeah, i did ask him about that, i will ask him what cable he is planning on using and report back as i don't know enough/anything about it to be confident it will be suitable, i would rather have enough power for 5 fair rides if that makes it all safer(please, dont tell me about how much power fair rides use, this is also an unknown for me)

i asked him if my "circuit board" was suitable, the thing in my cupboard that all the trip switches are on and that was suitable and he said it was fine, im guessing this is the DB?
 

John Bennett

Senior Member
vacBacker
Feedback
10 (100%)
Credits
5,003CR
Oh, safety wise it'll always protect itself if he's done his job right (most likely), it was more about having as much capability as possible if it's not much more expensive (not that you'll be pushing it hard by the sounds of it)

Yeah, that was what I meant by DB (Distribution Board). All sounds good then.
 

r-type

Active member
Feedback
7 (100%)
Credits
632CR
I'd always future proof. I ensure the electrician install a 16mm2 SWA cable to our garage when it was being converted. My games room building in the garden currently only has a 4mm2 SWA cable to it from the sub board fed by the 16mm which should give about 8.6KW to play with.

My arguement for the feed ro be as big as possible was that you never know when the wife will want a hotub putting in the garden next to the games room. Or if I was ever to change the building to accomodation for my disabled son to give him some form of independence.

As the building itself is nothing more than a triple garage with two UPVC doors on it at the moment, it's all a moot point for now.
 

Bods

Senior Member
vacBacker
Feedback
4 (100%)
Credits
4,738CR
wish I'd put some plastic pipe down garden to put the cable in now so if i wanted I could run a network cable in it easy

My Air compressor is quite big and needs 16 amp socket/plug, I really want it down bottom of garden with the Blasting Cab in small plastic shed, it's handy as it's next to my games room, I can take a cable from the consumer box in there and fit Socket so I can plug in anytime, I can't remember what armoured cable size I put in but it's way over anything I need. In fact I need to check what size I put to the 4kw heater as I could tap off there, obviously I'd be using one thing only
 

NivagSwerdna

Active member
Feedback
1 (100%)
Credits
744CR
I'm getting slightly out of my wheel house here but...

4mm2 or 6mm2 can carry approx 40A, 50A according to my Google. That's quite a lot of juice. At sizes bigger than that the cables are super expensive and hard to wrangle.

Hopefully your electrician can guide you.

As a point of reference 16mm2 could carry 80A but it would be 4x the cost of a bit of 4mm2

I won't say any more as I am sure there are people here who actually know what they are talking about!
 

TheDaddy

Senior Member
vacBacker
Feedback
14 (93%)
Credits
7,039CR
I wont say much as most answered above. The cable will be calculated by the CCC (Current carrying capacity) this is depending on length, type of installation and overall amps required. I would suggest all machines have switches as you can turn them on independently , Its going to be very rare (Depending on how many machines you have and I suppose how authentic you want it ) to have all machines turned on and operating. As mentioned most of the rush of amps is when the machine's are turned on so depending on how many there is this can trip the circuit. RCBO's are better and prices are not too much more ( A while ago they were silly money so no one used them ). You should only need a standard small 60A Consumer unit that is not to expansive either. I doubt you will need bigger than 4mm SWA cable either but again not seen the length ect.

One thing I will be doing when I convert my garage to an arcade / bar is have 99% of it Alexa controlled IE ' Alexa turn on machine 1 ' and on it pops ! Same with lights ect.

All the above is based on what you have said and I have not seen the job so you electrician should advise !!!!!!

Dave.

P.S I am a Qualified electrician (Although I dont practice nowadays :) )
 
Top