Ms Pac-Man can't be turned on /wink wink

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smeghead

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I suspect it's the US/UK transformer that's melted to it's doom. Unless you can think of other options? maybe there's a blown fuse or something?

So, I l forgot I left my arcades turned on. When I came back 4-5 hours later, Ms Pac-Man was dead and there was a slight smell of burning!

I opened up the back of the cab and couldn't see anything wrong, however, when I put my hand on the US/UK 220v to 110v transformer it was scorching hot!

Basically, I've left it turned off for 16 hours and tried turning it on this morning. Nothing happens, no buzzing noise from the speaker, no light in the in the marquee, monitor doesn't turn on.

In any case, can someone point me in the direction of where to get one of these US/UK transformers? I've looked on ebay and there seem to be a whole variety of them.

And one other thing, the transformer currently in there seems to be a botch job. Check out the amazing wiring from what looks like a bit of an extension cable soldered directly on.

PA200150.JPG


and yep, see where the top bit is broken from the transformer, it was like that when I got it.

Oh, it's an original US import Ms Pac-Man cab with an original pcb as seen here: http://www.ukvac.com/forum/my-2nd-dedicated-cab-has-arrived_topic339280_post845938.html?KW=pac-man#845938

smegheed2014-10-20 09:43:49
 
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obcd

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It sure isn't healthy if you run a cabinet with the earth wire unconnected.

Pretty much all manuals have it on the first page that the unit should be properly grounded.

The important thing for such a transformer is the amount of power it can handle. If you're arcade consumes more than the transformer can handle, the transformer will become real hot and might fail after a period of operation.

I asume you have measured the output of the transformer, and there is no voltage on that site anymore? The plug doesn't seem to have it's own fuse, so the 220V should arrive at the primary site.
 
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Guests

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When this cab was for sale on ebay, I was tempted to buy it as I've wanted a MS PAC for years. I asked the seller about the hash transformer bodge as the pictures of it were limited, he chose to ignore me, so surprises there then!
 
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smeghead

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obcd said:
I asume you have measured the output of the transformer, and there is no voltage on that site anymore? The plug doesn't seem to have it's own fuse, so the 220V should arrive at the primary site.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I have no way of testing it. I'm a newbie to electronics. I guess I could plug it in, turn it on for a few minutes and see if the transformer heats up. That would be an indication power is getting in to it I guess - I have no way of testing if power is going from the transformer to the pcb/monitor/speaker etc.

In any case, can anyone link a suitable transformer to replace it with?

and maybe link something which I can use to measure the output?

Thanks,

AJ
 
Equites

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Purity said:
The wiring on that transformer looks dangerous, so do not plug it in
Click to expand...

Only one real way to do this properly, by replacing the MT-80 transformer with a MT-81 or equivalent.

That's what me and Ben did.

I refuse to use stepdown transformers.
 
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You could simply use a small 220V lamp to test the input and output. The output is only 110V, so the lamp should light less than the primary site. A better investment is a low cost multimeter. It can measures AC and DC voltages, currents and also resistance. Some of those also can measure capacitors and can even measure the amplification of transistors. Be aware that you should never measure resistance on something that is powered and that you need to place the unit between a current path to measure the current that flows trough it. (It means cutting or disconnecting a wire.)

If you don't understand the current issue, don't measure current untill you do.

Pretty much all buiding markets nowadays sells those digital multimeters. I'll show just an example.

http://www.promobutler.be/nl/winkels/Aldi/digitale-multimeter-1733667

Always be very carefull if you measure high voltages > 50V and voltage sources capable of producing high currents. If you short circuit one of those, the result isn't pretty.
 
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smeghead

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phillv85 said:
I'd be tempted to remove that transformer and go back to 110v then use an external step down from Maplin or Airlink.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the simplest option to me.

In basic terms, do I just replace this piece of junk with

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-230v-to-110v-300w-voltage-converter-vr05f?gclid=CjwKEAjw5ZKiBRDhqa-Yjcml9kYSJABia-Rn29kJikuBCq1k-NPPlWD9aI_ziDK5XiYF5CFvrv_AvRoCTY7w_wcB

I assume I'll also need to somehow attach a US style plug to the 2 black wires shown in my pic at the start of this thread.
 
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obcd

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If your cab is having a marquee tl light, it's likely running on 110V as well Even with a stepdown transformer from 220V - 110V, those TL's never work well as the ballast was designed for 60Hz and our net voltage (in Belgium) is 50Hz Due to that, the lamp is getting a slightly higher voltage than it should, and the ballast is becoming burning hot. (Some say they all do...)

And, there is also the monitor chassis voltage, but in this case it seems that the game main transformer (MT-80) also acts as an isolation transformer for the monitor. I assume an MT-81 would do the conversion from 220V to 110V for the monitor chassis.
 
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obcd

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If you go for an external step down, make sure the cabinet can't be plugged in to 220V directly. Having another USA plug fitted to the wires is a solution for such mistake. Otherwise, sooner or later, someone will plug it in 220V, trust me. Make sure 300W is enough for your cab. You might find it's consumption in the original manual.
 
Purity

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Equites said:
Only one real way to do this properly, by replacing the MT-80 transformer with a MT-81 or equivalent.

That's what me and Ben did.
Click to expand...

Yeah that was fun trying to work out and rewire that power supply
smiley5.gif
 
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smegheed said:
phillv85 said:
I'd be tempted to remove that transformer and go back to 110v then use an external step down from Maplin or Airlink.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the simplest option to me.

<span style="line-height: 1.4;">In basic terms, do I just replace this piece of junk with</span>

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-230v-to-110v-300w-voltage-converter-vr05f?gclid=CjwKEAjw5ZKiBRDhqa-Yjcml9kYSJABia-Rn29kJikuBCq1k-NPPlWD9aI_ziDK5XiYF5CFvrv_AvRoCTY7w_wcB

I assume I'll also need to somehow attach a US style plug to the 2 black wires shown in my pic at the start of this thread.
Click to expand...

If you want to go this route then you'll need a cable with a US plug on the end. Best option is to remove the existing wires that are going to the PSU and put a new wire on there rather than trying to splice it on. Check the power usage, may be a tag on the cab somewhere that states the consumption. If it's under 300w then the Malplin step down will be ok.
 
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Good plan about getting a cable with a US plug on the end, rather than trying to fudge a US plug on to the existing wires.

Any clue where to get a cable with a US plug on the end? I don't see any in Maplins.

Links would be nice :)

I'll try and locate the consumption in the manual/cab.

In fact, I'll not bother getting a step down just yet as I already have one for my Donkey Kong. I'll just fit a new cable with a US plug to my Ms Pac-Man and plug that in to my DK step down and see what happens.
 
tb lilley

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If your want to do this properly then buy a multi meter. Check the transformer that's already in there for voltage in and voltage out.

The danger here is that you go out and buy your new cable and plug, rewire it, use your step down, and end up right where you started - with a dead cab and no idea why.

I'm not saying what you propose won't work, as it might. Equally, it might not.
 
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