PacMan Mini (Cabaret) Restore

qjuk

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I am now the new custodian and taking over the restoration of this Original Bally/Midway Pacman Mini machine. This was originally started by @Vamino back in 2015, you can read his original thread here

Back in 2015 the machine was in a pretty bad state. Internally it was covered in white mould. Thankfully Vamino has taken one for the team and cleaned the nastiness out :D

He’s also added some MDF to the original rotten base.

When I received the machine it was basically the shell with the parts stripped out.

Here is what it all looked like when I picked it up and unloaded in my garage arcade...
PacmanMini_1a.jpeg
PacmanMini_1b.jpeg

The Good
Looking more closely at the machine, the condition of the wood vinyl is not too bad. There is a bit of damage and some scratches, but I think it is salvageable. It’s a unique pattern and I actually quite like it. My aim is to try and keep it.

The monitor has been recapped and looks in a real nice condition, so hopefully there will not be too much to worry about there.

A quick glance at the main power supplies (that are currently stored in the white box with the black lid) and they don’t look too bad. I think these will clean-up and be good.

The marquee is in fantastic condition – a definite keeper.

The black back door “bubble” is there with no cracks. It’s near on impossible to get a replacement or even a reproduction, so I am pleased about that.

The inner black bezel monitor surround and smoked coloured monitor filter all look in good condition.

All the metal work marquee and control panel brackets look in decent shape, they just need re-spraying.

There is also what looks like a NOS replacement control panel overlay in the box – perfect!

The Bad
No back door. I was told it disintegrated so I will need to get a sheet of wood cut to size.

The bezel glass. A lot of the artwork has peeled off from behind the glass. The clear glass itself is ok and not cracked. I will have to get either a replacement bezel, get the artwork reprinted on the original glass or purchase a reproduction artwork sticker that sticks to the inside of the glass. I’ll probably go for the latter option.

The coin door. It’s badly rusted. There are also some additional holes drilled into the door, (probably by a previous operator installing a security bar/lock). Some wiring has also been cut and removed. The Price of Play decal legends are permanently damaged. Two bolts that hold the outer frame to the machine have snapped off due to the heavy rust. It will be easier to source a replacement Midway door than trying to fix this.

The silkscreen artwork on the control panel. Unfortunately rust is bubbling behind the blue ghost characters at the front of the panel. A real shame as I would have preferred to save the original artwork. Thankfully, you can get clear reproduction artwork of just the characters which stick onto a freshly painted black surface, so it should look just like the original.

The marquee lights. The white plywood board that sits behind the marquee is missing a couple of wedge bulb holders that are glued/secured into the plywood and the wiring is damaged. The plywood bulb holder is also splitting/delaminating. I’ve also no idea where I can obtain the unique bulb holders. I’ll have to find or work out a solution to this.

The base. The side edges of the particle board are crumbling at the bottom and it really needs a neater solution than the current MDF.

The Unknown
The main harness wiring. I have no idea if it is complete or if it is damaged. It will also need shoving in a bucket of hot soapy water to clean it all up and hopefully I can see where I am at with it.

The Base
First job is to remove the recently added MDF from the bottom and inside of the machine. Once the old base is exposed, I’ll remove that as well and fit a brand new piece of 18mm Plywood for the new base. I’ll glue it in place and add some additional batten supports inside the machine to make sure it is structurally sound.

Ripping off the MDF exposes the old rotten plywood base which is very soft.
PacmanMini_2.jpeg
PacmanMini_3.jpeg

The old plywood base was fitted using a tongue and groove method and also held in place using nails inserted in from the sides.
PacmanMini_4.jpeg

Here is the old base completely removed. No additional damage was done to the existing side panels with the vinyl.
PacmanMini_5.jpeg

After cleaning up the mess and removing the metal vent grilles, I measured the area needed for a new piece of plywood. I need to cut a piece measuring 548mm x 470mm.
PacmanMini_6.jpeg

There is now a cut out groove all around the side edge from where the old plywood base sat. The new piece of plywood fits perfectly onto that and can be glued and nailed in securely.
PacmanMini_7.jpeg

Inside the machine at the bottom there are (were) some triangular noggins that helped secure the original base. Most of these were soft (rotten) so I removed all of them and added new battens to give additional support the new base and beef up the structure of the cabinet. The battens were nailed and glued.
PacmanMini_8.jpeg

(Continued in next post)
 

qjuk

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The next stage is to use some wood filler to fill in the gaps at the bottom base of the cabinet where it meets the sides and repair a broken corner at the bottom of the cabinet.

PacmanMini_9.jpeg
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The Cabinet Shell

One thing that is soon become apparent with this machine is that quite a lot of the plywood is starting to split apart/delaminate in various places. This is the rear of the machine near the bottom of the door.
PacmanMini_11.jpeg

I’m going to need to squeeze a load of wood adhesive in between the sections of plywood and outer laminate and clamp it together whilst the glue cures. You can see in the photo I had to do the same at the top of the machine where the bezel glass slides into a plywood groove.
PacmanMini_12.jpeg

I also filled in various places inside the cabinet where the particle board was damaged from the removal of some rusty screws.

I also note that the particle board on the sides of the machine have swollen quite a bit.
PacmanMini_13.jpeg

The original T-Molding is 3/4inch wide(19.05mm). The wood has expanded to around 21-22mm in places. This has created a slight dilemma. Do I go for larger T-Molding to cover the area? Original Pacman Mini machines use a leather effect T-Molding and it is only available in one size: 3/4inch. To change it for a larger size would mean using plain black T-molding instead. A further problem is that the large T-molding also needs a bigger groove to slot into the wood. Not every part of the wood has swollen as much as the area in the photo so bigger T-molding is just not going to look right. The only real solution to this is to paint the edge black and order some brand new leather effect T-molding to freshen it up and keep it original. By painting the edge black, any expended areas that are not covered by the T-molding shouldn’t be so obvious.

Now that I am happy that the cabinet shell is structurally sound, I’m going to paint the cabinet to smarten it up. Normally I wouldn’t paint inside the cabinet, but since it’s had a lot of filler and glue repair work I think it needs it. I also think that giving it a lick of paint inside will help to seal the particle and plywood as well.
PacmanMini_14.jpeg

As with a previous machine build, I’m using Rust-Oleum Black Chalkboard paint. This is fantastic stuff and covers up blemishes nicely.

I was given some leg levellers with the machine but they didn’t come with any T-nuts. For European cabinets I believe M10 is the correct size for leg levellers. Unfortunately, it turns out the leg levellers I was given are an Imperial size so they are no good for M10 threads. It’s no major issue, they are not expensive so I order some M10 legs to go with the M10 T-nuts I already have on hand.
PacmanMini_15.jpeg

The bottom of the machine had suffered damage at the edges of the particle board and to the woodgrain vinyl . It’s understandable considering the base had rotten away in that area. I’ve strengthened the flaky edges up with the filler and will tidy the exposed edge with some trim.

Wickes here in the UK sell some nice black aluminium edging trim. A piece 15mmx15mm and 2.4 meters long comes in at a reasonable £6.20, enough to do the front and both sides. I’ve now put a piece on the front to give it a nice edge.
PacManMini_16.jpeg

The new replacement T-molding is currently en-route to me, so hopefully that should arrive here in about a week’s time. A replacement Midway coin door and replacement artwork for the front control panel is also coming with that as well. The replacement rear artwork for the glass bezel has also been ordered and I’m still awaiting a despatch date.

(Continued in next post)
 
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qjuk

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PacmanMini_17.jpeg
If you look closely, you can see a number of 1721 stamped into the wood at the top left.

PacmanMini_18.jpeg

PacmanMini_19.jpeg

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I think the side wood effect vinyl is generally in very good order and I really wanted to save it. There is a patch at the top on the right side which was damaged. I’ve filled in the indentation with filler and at a later date will try and make it blend it in using some acrylic paints. I also used some dark tan shoe polish to rub into the scratches on the vinyl and it has certainly made a difference.

PacmanMini_21.jpeg

Next Steps
I have already rubbed down most of all the metal parts ready for re-painting.

I am currently working on the marquee bulb holder. I have already repaired and re-glued the plywood holder and re-sprayed the white wood. The replacement bulb holders arrived today and I now need to wire it up to the original Molex connector.

This is currently where I am at, so this is to be continued…..
I will post updates to this restore thread as I go along.
 
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qjuk

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Marquee Back Board
The white plywood for the marquee bulb holder was also splitting away and needed re-gluing and clamping. There are 5 wedge bulbs to light up the marquee, these use standard W5W 12v bulbs (same as most coin entry lights). 2 of the original black bulb holders were missing and of the remaining 3, the legs were rusting away. The wiring had been pulled up so basically the whole unit needed new bulb holders and completely rewiring.

Pictured below is the original plywood board that has repaired and had a new coat paint (I used Mini Pepper White). I’ve laid the old bulb holders on top to show how an original would have looked like. Above it is my new bulb holder assembly. It’s basically a thin piece of plastic coated with aluminium, cut to 305mm long by 40mm high. I drilled 5x 12mm holes for the bulb holders. The bulb holders themselves are readily available from the likes of eBay or Aliexpress as they are often used in cars or other applications.
PacmanMini_22.jpeg

…and here it is fully wired up and ready to fit back into the cabinet.
PacmanMini_23.jpeg

Now installed into the cabinet with 5 brand new wedge bulbs…
PacmanMini_24.jpeg

Metal Painting, Part 1
It’s been a lovely day today weather-wise, so I didn’t want to waste the opportunity with the dry conditions and wanted to crack on with some painting. Here is most of the metal work with three coats painted on one side (used Hammerite Smooth in Black and Silver).
PacmanMini_25.jpeg
PacmanMini_26.jpeg

I’ll be leaving these to dry overnight. Tomorrow’s weather is forecast to be dry again, so the plan is to paint the other side.

Power Supplies and Wiring Harness
Whilst the paint is drying I thought I’d have a good look inside the box which has all the wiring and power supplies.
PacmanMini_27.jpeg

The rotten PSU plywood base is still attached to various parts and signs of the white stuff!
PacmanMini_28.jpeg

I’m going to need to sort through this to see where I am at. I carefully remove all the rotten plywood and screws and lay everything out on my driveway. There is 2 separate wiring harnesses, one for the mains, fuses and power supplies, the other is the main game harness. The fuse holders will need replacing but apart from that the wiring is remarkably in good condition. I gave everything a quick clean up and it certainly looks salvageable. There appears to be only a few cut wires (the speaker and what looks like 2 thin earth wires).

Midway originally hardwired the speaker to the main game harness so it’s understandable that the speaker wires have been cut to remove the speaker itself. I’ve now added a 2 pin Molex connector for the speaker to the harness to make life a bit easier.
PacmanMini_29.jpeg

To be continued…
 

Funhouse71

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In the past for swollen wood or mdf the only way I could correct this was to remove the excess swollen wood with a stanley blade or scalpel by roughly the same amount the was swollen then refill with wood glue and clamp it using a couple of pieces of wood strapping either side. The idea is, when you clamp the wood strapping the swollen area is then pressed down to the same width as the outer edges around the swollen area of wood otherwise without the strapping you will risk causing a bowl dent in the clamped area.
 

qjuk

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Pacman PCB Game Board
I was given an original Pac-Man pcb game board with the machine. The board had been previously tested as good, unfortunately this is no longer the case. I hooked it up to another cabinet to test it; the game boots and runs, the sound is working and it credits up, however the graphics are basically just blocks.
PacmanMini_30.jpeg

Also, the large filtering caps are shot. There was a slight crackle/hissing sound when I powered up the board coming from the 10000uF capacitors. One of them was bubbling out something nasty so they will definitely need replacing.
PacmanMini_31.jpeg

The board will need repairing at some point. Thankfully I’ve already got a few working Pacman pcbs so I can put one of them in the refurbished cabinet instead and it will not hold up the restoration.

Harness clean up and new PSU Base
I’ve now cut out a replacement plywood base that will hold the 2 PSU’s, the fuse holders and main line filter. I do not know the exact size of the original base, so I cut one that is 290mmx350mmx18mm which seems ideal. I’ve laid things out to see how it will look. The two PSU’s have been cleaned up a bit but the wiring is still dirty.
PacmanMini_32.jpeg

Next job was to de-solder all the wiring to the power supplies. It took me a while as all the solder joins were corroded and the solder was really struggling to melt, even after adding fresh solder and flux. I did get there in the end though. As previously mentioned the fuse holders are in a bad state and will get replaced. The mains line filter doesn’t look great either. Apart from the surface rust, it looks like ingress may have got in near the line terminals so a replacement filter has been ordered.
PacmanMini_33.jpeg

Once de-soldered, the harness is in 3 pieces. It’s time to give this a good clean-up and scrub. In the bucket of hot soapy water you go…
PacmanMini_34.jpeg

It’s a clear but windy day today, perfect conditions to dry out a nice clean loom on the washing line.
PacmanMini_35.jpeg
 

qjuk

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T-Moulding
Whilst I’m waiting for the loom harness to fully dry out, I’m turning my attention to the recently delivered replacement T-Moulding. I’ve also re-fitted some of the newly painted metalwork to the inside of the machine. 2x new edge trims have been cut to size have been fitted at the bottom base to hide the rough side edges of the vinyl.
PacmanMini_36.jpeg

Remember previously when I posted a photo of the wood swelling around the groove for the T-moulding? The black paint does a good job camouflaging the expanded areas and it doesn’t stick out like a sore thumb. I think it worked out pretty well.
PacmanMini_37.jpeg

Here is the T-moulding now fully completed on the cabinet. I’m so glad I stuck to the original leather effect moulding.
PacmanMini_38.jpeg

Marquee
As previously mentioned, the original marquee is in fantastic condition. A light clean-up is really all it needed. One thing that I have noticed is that the marquee seems a bit small height-wise and drops down a bit when sitting in the marquee brackets. It’s not quite central.
PacmanMini_39.jpeg

It’s bugging me and I think the marquee needs to be raised up a smidge. My solution to this is to stick a piece of 10mm thick foam insulation strip to the wood at the bottom of the marquee housing. The marquee can sit on the top edge of the foam (red arrows are pointing to the added foam strip). This will raise the marquee up by 10mm and will be hidden by the bottom bracket.
PacmanMini_40.jpeg

It’s now central. It has worked out great I think!
PacmanMini_41.jpeg

Coming Up Soon…
I’ve now started to fix the 2x PSU’s and new fuse holders to the new wooden PSU base, more on this in the next update.
The replacement coin door and front control panel ghost art has now also arrived so I’ve got plenty to keep me busy.
Hopefully by the end of next week the replacement glass bezel art and coin mechs will be with me as well.
 

Bods

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Wow that's looking awesome matey
I've painted the T-Mould edges black to hide it before, it's easiest way to make it look much better. need someone to start a T-Moulding business up for Damp UK cabs in various widths :D
Doing the inside black looks great.
I would have had to get that Marquee central also :)

That cute little Leisure 2000 cab, can't believe how small it is, cracking that
 

Vamino

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T-Moulding
Whilst I’m waiting for the loom harness to fully dry out, I’m turning my attention to the recently delivered replacement T-Moulding. I’ve also re-fitted some of the newly painted metalwork to the inside of the machine. 2x new edge trims have been cut to size have been fitted at the bottom base to hide the rough side edges of the vinyl.
View attachment 67640

Remember previously when I posted a photo of the wood swelling around the groove for the T-moulding? The black paint does a good job camouflaging the expanded areas and it doesn’t stick out like a sore thumb. I think it worked out pretty well.
View attachment 67641

Here is the T-moulding now fully completed on the cabinet. I’m so glad I stuck to the original leather effect moulding.
View attachment 67642

Marquee
As previously mentioned, the original marquee is in fantastic condition. A light clean-up is really all it needed. One thing that I have noticed is that the marquee seems a bit small height-wise and drops down a bit when sitting in the marquee brackets. It’s not quite central.
View attachment 67643

It’s bugging me and I think the marquee needs to be raised up a smidge. My solution to this is to stick a piece of 10mm thick foam insulation strip to the wood at the bottom of the marquee housing. The marquee can sit on the top edge of the foam (red arrows are pointing to the added foam strip). This will raise the marquee up by 10mm and will be hidden by the bottom bracket.
View attachment 67644

It’s now central. It has worked out great I think!
View attachment 67645

Coming Up Soon…
I’ve now started to fix the 2x PSU’s and new fuse holders to the new wooden PSU base, more on this in the next update.
The replacement coin door and front control panel ghost art has now also arrived so I’ve got plenty to keep me busy.
Hopefully by the end of next week the replacement glass bezel art and coin mechs will be with me as well.
Fantastic progress mate.

I can assure you that Lurch tested the PCB for me right in front of my eyes, admittedly it was before I bought one of those Jamma adapters from you. And being honest, I didn't think to test it again before handing over the bits to you.

This really went to the right home, I can't wait to see the next update!
 

qjuk

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Fantastic progress mate.

I can assure you that Lurch tested the PCB for me right in front of my eyes, admittedly it was before I bought one of those Jamma adapters from you. And being honest, I didn't think to test it again before handing over the bits to you.

This really went to the right home, I can't wait to see the next update!
No worries buddy about the game pcb, It’s not been fired up for 10 years so it’s kinda to be expected. I’ll look at it and repair it at a later date, no big issue :cool:. I don’t think it will take much effort to get it fixed up anyway :)

@Bods , the Leisure 2000 cab is from that same seller who recently just sold the project Gorf Cabaret and the 2x Battlezone cabarets. Yeah, it is actually quite dinky. A tidy little JAMMA cab. The seller originally had a bootleg Street Fighter 2 pcb running in it when I picked it up (which wasn’t part of the deal). Its currently got a an original Shinobi board running in it at the moment.

I’ve been doing a little more work on the Pacman refurb today. The Live and Neutral wiring is reversed on it so it’s thrown me out a bit. It looks like it was done at the factory as well. The mains fuse and mains on/off switch is all wired to Neutral and they use brown for Neutral and blue for Live. After the mains line (noise) filter the Live (blue) goes to the correct 240v lug on the PSU and brown (neutral) to the 0v. I’m going to wire it to the correct colours when I put it all back and put the fuse and mains switch on the Live line.

I’ve also noticed that there is no power wiring to the coin entry lights on the coin door. I don’t think any of the original Pacman machines do either, but there is on Ms Pacman. The replacement door I’ve got has the lights fitted, so I’d add a couple of extra wires to the door connector Molex/AMP plug get them wired up and in use.

I also need to draw up a pinout diagram for the coin door connector as the Pacman schematics has almost no information about the coin door connections. I am going have to trace each wire colour and find out what each wire does. It’s all time consuming, but I’m getting there :)
 

qjuk

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Power Supply Board and Wiring
Whilst working on the main power supply board, I thought I’d take a look at the mains inlet power cord. It doesn’t look too great and there’s some damage to the insulation exposing all the copper wires. It’s probably been caught under the machine and dragged along the ground at some point.
PacmanMini_42.jpeg

I can salvage the end part of the cable with the Molex connector that plugs into the power board and join it (using an enclosed junction box) to a new cord with a new UK plug.

This is now everything fully wired to the power block board and the wiring harness installed back into the machine. New fuse blocks and a new noise line filter were fitted. I installed the game PCB just to see how it would fit and to also aid me in positioning the harness inside the cabinet.
PacmanMini_43.jpeg
PacmanMini_44.jpeg

PacManMini_45.jpeg

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Power Supply Board and Wiring
With the game board disconnected, I thought I’d test the voltages coming out of the power supplies. The monitor PSU is giving a steady 121.1vac, so that looks good.
The main game PSU is giving me the following readings:-

7vac – one side is 7.34v and the other side is 8.36v
12vac – one side is 12.88v and the other side 13.3v

I’m slightly concerned with the 7v readings. I was under the impression that the voltages on both sides of the Center Tap should be the same. Mine seem to be a bit imbalanced. I don’t think it’s an issue for the 12v, but the 8.36v on one side of the 7v output seems a bit high. I’m not sure if this is going to cause an issue on the Pacman board when it rectifies the voltage to DC or if this is within an acceptable tolerance.

PCB Game Board Repair
I thought I would take another quick look at the game pcb. I’ve got a couple of used (but previously tested good) 10000uF caps to hand so I thought I might as well fit them and also look at the graphic fault.

The block graphics is a similar effect you get when you remove the graphic roms from the board. I hook up the game pcb to my JAMMA cab and press down on the 5E and 5F roms. The graphics re-appeared every time I pushed down on the 2 chips! It looks like I’ve probably got a socket issue here.

When removing the two graphic roms at 5E and 5F, I note that two legs were broken off each chip.
PacmanMini_47.jpeg

These are the original GI prom chips and they are notorious for suffering from leg rot. The 4 broken legs were still stuck inside the original Midway sockets. With a brand new pointed utility blade, you can usually remove the broken legs from the sockets. It’s a bit tricky, but I managed to remove all of the legs from the sockets fairly easily and thus saving myself having to replace both sockets.

With 2 new Eproms burnt and the two replacement capacitors fitted, it’s ready to be tested.
PacmanMini_48.jpeg

The game boots perfectly and all appears to be running properly on my JAMMA cab :)
PacmanMini_49.jpeg

Blowing a fuse!
I now feel brave enough to test the game pcb in the PacMan cabinet. However, I want to hook up my multi-meter to a Ground and +5v test point ready so see what voltage I’m getting as soon as I power on. Within a few seconds of switching on, I hear a pop sound, the voltage is reading 5.5vdc so I quickly power everything off.

One of the 5A fuses in the 7vac circuit has also just blown.

I’m going to need to investigate this further. I have no idea if the AC circuitry on the PacMan board was previously bad or if the 8.36vac is a cause of the problem. At the very least I think the board will need a re-cap and the components in the AC part are going to need checking out.

I re-tested the game board back in my JAMMA cab and it still works perfectly fine so at least I’ve not damaged it. I am tempted to replace the fuse and try another one of my PacMan boards to see if it does something similar.

To be continued…
 
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big10p

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Great work. I would take a close look at the edge connector. They're notorious for power issues on Pac-Man. I ended up replacing the one in mine.
 

Vamino

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Glad the PCB was was an easy fix mate.

As I said, we tested it using a Jamma adapter and it was fine, bonus you didn't have to replace the sockets too.

Cab is starting to look lovely now. :)
 

qjuk

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Great work. I would take a close look at the edge connector. They're notorious for power issues on Pac-Man. I ended up replacing the one in mine.
The edge connector did get a good clean and the pins inside look nice and shiny, but I will take another look just to make sure there is full contact with the pcb board fingers. I’m also going to double check to make sure every wire is actually connected to the correct pin.

I’m not sure whether to start the coin door refurb or the control panel next :D
I’m leaning towards the coin door.
 
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