Pole Position Refurb. 11/09/14 Done.
- Thread starter smarty
- Start date
Jodo said:I'd really appreciate any tips or even a video of the best technique to do it as it looks quite daunting
All my other Atari cabs that I've remade the edge connectors for have all used crimp connectors from Bob roberts. With those it was a case or cutting one original cable as close to the connector as possible then recrimping with a new pin and clicking into the new connector. Working top to bottom until you're done. Then I would use the old connector and compare cable/pin positions and colours to confirm I hadn't made any mistakes in pin order. Also any pins that Carry Power and Ground connections I usually solder as well.
The solder connectors for the PP was a similar routine, except I used heat shrink on each cable. This was 'shrunk' after each solder connection to the connector, this makes sure you don't go all blobby with your solder and start joining pins together. I'm pretty sure using the heat shrink also strengthens the connections overall.
I'm not sure when I'll be making off another edge connector but If one comes up In the near future I could make a video to show how I do it.
Thanks.
forcefulfil
EDOT King
Just amazing attention to detail here!
truely one of the best resto,s ive seen.
i hate it when the side art is replaced,to me its no longer original.
Brilliant work dude keep it coming!
phil
truely one of the best resto,s ive seen.
i hate it when the side art is replaced,to me its no longer original.
Brilliant work dude keep it coming!
phil
Hi guys, nothing really interesting in this update and its been a few months since my last update, but something is better than nothing eh! Having a terrible time with everything arcade related seeming to break recently, so thought I'd show some progress instead on dwelling on what's gone wrong. Pole Position. Small update.
Small update to my Pole Position cab. I finally had a bit of spare time to sort the coin box and the service panel out. A quick respray and a clean of the wiring loom and counters.
My list of remaining things to do on the cab now are as follows in no particular order off the top of my head:
1. Re-spray the coin door and re-assemble coin mech wiring etc.
2. Fit new steering wheel sticker to replace manky old one. I already have a replacement.
3. Renew/tidy the black formica front of the cab, as its pretty messed up. I think its been spray painted in the past and touched up all over the place.
4. Make a cardboard bezel for the monitor.
5. Make a replacement back door.
6. Fit some locks.
7. Locate a gameboard i can call my own
Thanks, Mart.
smarty2013-08-11 20:39:02
Small update to my Pole Position cab. I finally had a bit of spare time to sort the coin box and the service panel out. A quick respray and a clean of the wiring loom and counters.
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| Finished Coin box photo 1 |
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| Finished Coin box photo 2 |
1. Re-spray the coin door and re-assemble coin mech wiring etc.
2. Fit new steering wheel sticker to replace manky old one. I already have a replacement.
3. Renew/tidy the black formica front of the cab, as its pretty messed up. I think its been spray painted in the past and touched up all over the place.
4. Make a cardboard bezel for the monitor.
5. Make a replacement back door.
6. Fit some locks.
7. Locate a gameboard i can call my own
Thanks, Mart.
smarty2013-08-11 20:39:02
RetroClinic
User
smarty said:
Have you got a link to that thread please, I've looked for it but can't see it. I'd be interested in what this is as well, although an original cab without an original PCB? That's like putting a 60 in 1 in. You'd might as well stick a PC running DOS and autoboot MAME into it if you want reliability.
These don't do a bad version of Pole either! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111141994889
Have to say you've done a good job on the cab so far! The parts look mint!
Mark.
RetroClinic2013-08-11 21:11:43
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=209988 is for the KLOv thread, as you know I am looking for an original board. If/when this see's the light of day I will get one for sure, but I do want original hardware, until it all breaks and makes me cry. lol.
Very, very nice work.
A lot for me to live up to (when I get round to mine)... I've got a slightly ropey cab and 2 1/2 board-sets (three game boards, two video boards - all borked, with corroded batteries and all) to play with at a later date).
Thinking I might tackle my PP2 first, as the cab's in better condition and I have a pretty decent spare CP to put on it (although the game boards don't work for that either!!!).
A lot for me to live up to (when I get round to mine)... I've got a slightly ropey cab and 2 1/2 board-sets (three game boards, two video boards - all borked, with corroded batteries and all) to play with at a later date).
Thinking I might tackle my PP2 first, as the cab's in better condition and I have a pretty decent spare CP to put on it (although the game boards don't work for that either!!!).
Another small update, but as things go its a big part of the Restoration, the gameboard...Pole Position. Prepare to Qualify...
Well I've jumped the gun a bit and got myself a PP board from Mark at RetroClinic.com I say jumping the gun only because the other parts on the cab are are not finished but anyway. Everything fired up OK with the exception of the Audio, it is coming through both speakers but it sounds heavily attenuated so I have some work to do to hunt down what wrong on the audio amp side of things. My monitor still requires further adjustment to get some more width out of the game image but as a 1 hour test session tonight I'm happy
smarty2013-08-16 13:30:31
Well I've jumped the gun a bit and got myself a PP board from Mark at RetroClinic.com I say jumping the gun only because the other parts on the cab are are not finished but anyway. Everything fired up OK with the exception of the Audio, it is coming through both speakers but it sounds heavily attenuated so I have some work to do to hunt down what wrong on the audio amp side of things. My monitor still requires further adjustment to get some more width out of the game image but as a 1 hour test session tonight I'm happy
smarty2013-08-16 13:30:31
forcefulfil
EDOT King
HOOOOOORAYYYYYYYYYY!!
RetroClinic
User
Pole Position. Chequered Flag in sight
It's been a long time since the last update and tbh I've spent more time playing PP that finishing it off To recap from the last update back in August '13, I had just purchased a working boardset and had fired up the cab and played a few games.
Fast forward 24 hours and the game didn't run correctly I was greeted with a blue screen on the monitor with a 'RAM 22' error. Mark from Retroclinic kindly sent me a hand full of them and after replacing the faulty RAM the game still didn't work! eek, ok so what had happened, well my ARII had shat its load. The 2N3055 Transistor had failed and caused the ARII to output around 7 volts (from memory. It may have been 8 volts) well this had the effect of blowing a protection diode on the CPU board, so a week later Mark had sorted it at my expense, and I had replaced the offending 2n3055's on both ARII's. The game was working once again.
Not content with using the ARII's for fear of similar failures I decided to go down the route of installing a switcher PSU into the cab to run the gameboards' leaving the ARII's to run the audio amplification.
I jumpered the 5V line and the ground lines across test points throughout both boards, and removed the 5V edge connector feeds which came from the ARII. Fingers crossed the board have been playing fine for months now.
Next I needed to make a back door for the cab, I had already remade the bottom section of the cab when I was initially putting it together, but with having a new mdf door, it made sense to remake to bottom section so it all matched.
I still need to spray the door, that will get done in the first instance of some fine dry weather. After that it will be painting the coin doors (the frame is already done), remounting the mechs and then making a cardboard monitor surround. I'll get there soon!
smarty2014-02-04 21:45:23
It's been a long time since the last update and tbh I've spent more time playing PP that finishing it off
To recap from the last update back in August '13, I had just purchased a working boardset and had fired up the cab and played a few games. Fast forward 24 hours and the game didn't run correctly I was greeted with a blue screen on the monitor with a 'RAM 22' error. Mark from Retroclinic kindly sent me a hand full of them and after replacing the faulty RAM the game still didn't work! eek, ok so what had happened, well my ARII had shat its load. The 2N3055 Transistor had failed and caused the ARII to output around 7 volts (from memory. It may have been 8 volts) well this had the effect of blowing a protection diode on the CPU board, so a week later Mark had sorted it at my expense, and I had replaced the offending 2n3055's on both ARII's. The game was working once again.
Not content with using the ARII's for fear of similar failures I decided to go down the route of installing a switcher PSU into the cab to run the gameboards' leaving the ARII's to run the audio amplification.
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| Running a switch mode power supply for the 5V supply |
Next I needed to make a back door for the cab, I had already remade the bottom section of the cab when I was initially putting it together, but with having a new mdf door, it made sense to remake to bottom section so it all matched.
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| Rear Door made and hole cut ready for a lock |
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| Another new bottom section of the cab |
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| Fitted to the cab ready for paint |
smarty2014-02-04 21:45:23
