Repoing Universal 4/8 way Joysticks + Buttons
- Thread starter Phils Arcade
- Start date
Phils Arcade
Senior Member
I'm actually thinking something similar. Looking to possible laser or CNC out the contacts and make a mould, insert the contacts, and either use the mini injection moulder, or resin cast them. Probably resin cast as it's a lot less time for a small batch.
Phils Arcade
Senior Member
So day two of the weekend and managed a few hours in.
This was a lot, and I mean A LOT, of repetitive work.
Took the 4 jaw mini lathe chuck and mounted it vertically on the drill press. It's really a job for the mill, but it needs an overhaul so that will be one for another day.
The joystick uses 2 brass spacers which I managed to get 50 of these, but with a very small hole diameter so first job to to drill these out to 8.8mm, then ream it out to a final 9mm, same as the shaft. Then add a small inner chamfer to the hole on each side. So that's 250 times, swapping in and out the spacers to get to the final part. Phew!
Next we move onto the BIG washer. This is stainless steel and a nice chunky 2.5mm thick. The original is 2mm, but this just feels so much more solid. Again this was a repeated process. Drill pilot hole, work up to 8.8mm and ream out to a final 9mm, then chamfer both sides. So glad that that part is finished.
Once everything was cleaned up, it was time to start assembling. This is the main shaft now complete.
Think I'll have a wee rest now and a glass or two of whiskey to settle for the night.
Next up will be the bearing and bushing assembly. This'll be fun.
This was a lot, and I mean A LOT, of repetitive work.
Took the 4 jaw mini lathe chuck and mounted it vertically on the drill press. It's really a job for the mill, but it needs an overhaul so that will be one for another day.
The joystick uses 2 brass spacers which I managed to get 50 of these, but with a very small hole diameter so first job to to drill these out to 8.8mm, then ream it out to a final 9mm, same as the shaft. Then add a small inner chamfer to the hole on each side. So that's 250 times, swapping in and out the spacers to get to the final part. Phew!
Next we move onto the BIG washer. This is stainless steel and a nice chunky 2.5mm thick. The original is 2mm, but this just feels so much more solid. Again this was a repeated process. Drill pilot hole, work up to 8.8mm and ream out to a final 9mm, then chamfer both sides. So glad that that part is finished.
Once everything was cleaned up, it was time to start assembling. This is the main shaft now complete.
Think I'll have a wee rest now and a glass or two of whiskey to settle for the night.
Next up will be the bearing and bushing assembly. This'll be fun.
Attachments
Phils Arcade
Senior Member
Just an update on putting your name down, costs, taking monies and a few random words.
Random bit
I have this progress build on a couple of places, and each are asking the same questions, either on the thread, or via private messages.
First up, I'm doing this in my spare time and I'm not an engineering firm, as such it may take a little bit longer,.
I've my own workshop used for making parts I can't source, or to weld broken sections of a machine, etc... It's not the most hi-tech, far from it, but it does suit what I need it to do.
I am in the process of building out a new workshop, mainly used for repairing cabs and will be updating a number of machines once built, which will make creating things like this a lot easier, thus quicker.
Putting your name down, cost
I've a list of people that have expressed an interest across the different sites, now totalling almost 30. I know from past experience that many people asked to put their name down, but never actually want one when the time comes. Maybe they are no longer interested, machine has since been sold, or they have already found the parts they were after. So I'm doing an initial batch of 15 joysticks. Once these are sold, I'll start on a second batch and so forth. Once everyone has theirs, I'll offer parts so people that want to refurbish their joysticks can do so.
I'm NOT taking any money at the minute. I don't say I'm going to do something, take a bunch of cash, and never deliver, like some others that many in the community are aware of. I'll continue to post the progress, along with photos so you can all see the progress being made and not just a scam. Once these are complete then I'll offer them out.
The cost. This is a tricky one. I was looking to get the joystick made, with whatever variety people wanted, for around £100 - £130 plus shipping. This is a lot less than sending it out to be made by an engineering firm, or those online fabrication sites. I've enquired in the past with quotes coming back close to £350 each. Small batches just don't warrant the work for them.
I was hoping that the cost of the leaf switches wouldn't be too expensive, but this doesn't seem to be the case. That one switch at Flippers.com in at $40 was a shock. That's $120 just for switches, plus shipping, if you purchased from them. Almost the cost of the entire joystick. Maybe I am selling way too cheap, lol.
To that end, I'll probably end up repoing those as well so might end up pushing the cost up slightly, maybe by an extra £15 or so, to cover the time and materials needed. Just letting you know now.
My end goal
Once the workshop has been completed, hopefully before the end of this year, and the new, well new to me, tooling has been setup, I've about 30 or so cabs to get refurbished.
On top of that I'm looking to be able to add small batch engineering work for those in the community that need it.
And as I've asked many times in the past, if you have a Universal joystick, please take photos of it if you can, see how it's made and I'll document the differences.
Thank you all for your support so far.
Phil
Random bit
I have this progress build on a couple of places, and each are asking the same questions, either on the thread, or via private messages.
First up, I'm doing this in my spare time and I'm not an engineering firm, as such it may take a little bit longer,.
I've my own workshop used for making parts I can't source, or to weld broken sections of a machine, etc... It's not the most hi-tech, far from it, but it does suit what I need it to do.
I am in the process of building out a new workshop, mainly used for repairing cabs and will be updating a number of machines once built, which will make creating things like this a lot easier, thus quicker.
Putting your name down, cost
I've a list of people that have expressed an interest across the different sites, now totalling almost 30. I know from past experience that many people asked to put their name down, but never actually want one when the time comes. Maybe they are no longer interested, machine has since been sold, or they have already found the parts they were after. So I'm doing an initial batch of 15 joysticks. Once these are sold, I'll start on a second batch and so forth. Once everyone has theirs, I'll offer parts so people that want to refurbish their joysticks can do so.
I'm NOT taking any money at the minute. I don't say I'm going to do something, take a bunch of cash, and never deliver, like some others that many in the community are aware of. I'll continue to post the progress, along with photos so you can all see the progress being made and not just a scam. Once these are complete then I'll offer them out.
The cost. This is a tricky one. I was looking to get the joystick made, with whatever variety people wanted, for around £100 - £130 plus shipping. This is a lot less than sending it out to be made by an engineering firm, or those online fabrication sites. I've enquired in the past with quotes coming back close to £350 each. Small batches just don't warrant the work for them.
I was hoping that the cost of the leaf switches wouldn't be too expensive, but this doesn't seem to be the case. That one switch at Flippers.com in at $40 was a shock. That's $120 just for switches, plus shipping, if you purchased from them. Almost the cost of the entire joystick. Maybe I am selling way too cheap, lol.
To that end, I'll probably end up repoing those as well so might end up pushing the cost up slightly, maybe by an extra £15 or so, to cover the time and materials needed. Just letting you know now.
My end goal
Once the workshop has been completed, hopefully before the end of this year, and the new, well new to me, tooling has been setup, I've about 30 or so cabs to get refurbished.
On top of that I'm looking to be able to add small batch engineering work for those in the community that need it.
And as I've asked many times in the past, if you have a Universal joystick, please take photos of it if you can, see how it's made and I'll document the differences.
Thank you all for your support so far.
Phil
Phils Arcade
Senior Member
So I managed to order some of the Universal buttons from Flippers.com which are advertised as NOS.
These have arrived and the quality seems to be very cheap. Was wondering if others that have the original buttons on their machines please check.
Also can someone take a couple of photos of how these are mounted on their cabs as well.
I'm looking to make reproduction versions of these at some point, and want to get as many details as possible.
I'm also looking for as many of the original manuals and technical data sheets for the Universal cabs as well. Problem is shipping from the States can be quite expensive so costs per manual would need to be quite low. If any of our European friends have any, please get in contact.
Thanks again to all that have helped so far.
These have arrived and the quality seems to be very cheap. Was wondering if others that have the original buttons on their machines please check.
Also can someone take a couple of photos of how these are mounted on their cabs as well.
I'm looking to make reproduction versions of these at some point, and want to get as many details as possible.
I'm also looking for as many of the original manuals and technical data sheets for the Universal cabs as well. Problem is shipping from the States can be quite expensive so costs per manual would need to be quite low. If any of our European friends have any, please get in contact.
Thanks again to all that have helped so far.
Phils Arcade
Senior Member
Yeah, but the quality feels all wrong. I've ordered some others to see if they're the same.
Phils Arcade
Senior Member
I've managed to track down a couple more of the buttons and these have now been delivered as well.
These are a lot more like what I'd expect them to look and feel like, which are a marked improvement over the first batch that was delivered.
The quality of the plastic is a lot stronger and thicker and feels a lot more like what I thought they'd should be.
You can even see the difference in the red colour, much more like the ones used in the Universal control panels.
The button housing also feels to be of better, stronger material. Also ordered the metal backing plate that the protruding portion of the button goes through in order to make contact with the leaf switch.
Looking at how the switch, housing and backing plate goes together, it may be possible to make a small disc that has a couple of low voltage LEDs, allowing the button to be lit from underneath, which may be of interest to those that have this style in their cabs.
These are a lot more like what I'd expect them to look and feel like, which are a marked improvement over the first batch that was delivered.
The quality of the plastic is a lot stronger and thicker and feels a lot more like what I thought they'd should be.
You can even see the difference in the red colour, much more like the ones used in the Universal control panels.
The button housing also feels to be of better, stronger material. Also ordered the metal backing plate that the protruding portion of the button goes through in order to make contact with the leaf switch.
Looking at how the switch, housing and backing plate goes together, it may be possible to make a small disc that has a couple of low voltage LEDs, allowing the button to be lit from underneath, which may be of interest to those that have this style in their cabs.
Phils Arcade
Senior Member
A look at the plastic Universal joystick
Here we have the all elusive plastic moulded joystick, in all its broken down parts.
The two plastic flat discs are the dust cover and leaf swift striker. Both have the UNIVERSAL logo in raised letters on them.
The joystick shaft is another variation out there. This seems to have the knob moulded onto the shaft, as it doesn't want to unscrew or pull off. Don't want to force it too much.
The knob is also a different shape, and again, with the UNIVERSAL logo in raised letters across the top. A bit hard to make out in the photo.
If there's enough interest, I might try and reproduce this style as well.
Would also love to know which games this style of joystick was used in.
Here we have the all elusive plastic moulded joystick, in all its broken down parts.
The two plastic flat discs are the dust cover and leaf swift striker. Both have the UNIVERSAL logo in raised letters on them.
The joystick shaft is another variation out there. This seems to have the knob moulded onto the shaft, as it doesn't want to unscrew or pull off. Don't want to force it too much.
The knob is also a different shape, and again, with the UNIVERSAL logo in raised letters across the top. A bit hard to make out in the photo.
If there's enough interest, I might try and reproduce this style as well.
Would also love to know which games this style of joystick was used in.