Update number two from me on this thread. Finally logging in again after a long break and reading whitecomet's initial D thread has motivated me to pull my finger out and add my latest findings regarding sub-woofer speaker replacement in Model 3 style sitdown drivers.
Well, the Visaton seemed to be working fine in one half of my Daytona 2 twin as described above. Performance maybe not quite as good as the original still installed in the other half, but better than nothing and a massive improvement on the blown speaker it replaced (they sound bloody horrible once they've blown!).
As is the way with this hobby, you fix one thing and something else breaks either on the same cab or a different one. Sure enough, a few months later the sub-woofer blew in my initial D single. Having found a solution for the sub-woofer I promptly ordered another Visaton and commenced possibly the most awkward replacement job on a Sega driver
All good? Well, no it sounded lousy. The bass was like someone hitting a cardboard box with a spoon!
Strange as I didn't have such a huge disappointment on the Daytona 2. Checked the main sound amp and low pass amp by swapping out with known workers, but no change - had to be the speaker. The bass is very thumpy and prominent in the initial D soundtrack so maybe the Visaton is not up to the job afterall?
Unlikely to be a dodgy speaker - they are brand new items and from a reputable seller. So two options, try a different speaker or refoam the original.
The
Dynavox DY103-9A has previously been mentioned as an alternative, but I hadn't seen any feedback on this to confirm it was any good. However, looking closely at the specs and images, it appeared to be a slightly better option:
I had been a bit concerned that the 4 tabbed mounting frame design of the Visaton meant that there was a gap around the mounting ring on the woofer box, but it didn't seem to be an issue on Daytona 2. The Dynavox has a fuller frame, more like the original and looked like it might cover the mounting ring and provide a more airtight fit.
Bad photos, sorry..
Turns out it does fit a lot better, although you do have to turn the speaker 90 degrees as the connector lugs are quite wide apart and the wires don't quite reach the original location (you could pull the wires more through into the woofer box, but I didn't). The spade connectors also need pinching in slightly as they are a bit too open for the smaller lugs on the Dynavox. Finally there is a very small plastic guide peg you have to snip off from the woofer box to get a flush fit on the mounting ring (there is a matching hole in the orignal speaker frame that ensures correct fitting, but it's not necessary and gets in the way when fitting the Dynavox).
Note the better ring coverage..
So, all back together, fire up and wow, what a difference! The sound is a milllion miles better than the Visaton and back to the same quality that came out of the original. Good strong bass and a really good upgrade on the original cab (initial D and OutRun2 cabs never came with sub woofers out of the factory - UK or Japanese).
So, new recommendation - although I haven't tested the Dynavox in the Daytona 2 cab yet, I would recommend it over the Visaton purely on my experience with it in the initial D cab. I think if/when I get round to swapping it out it will sound better, if not quite the dramatic difference it made in the initial D. I can't prove anything, but my thought is that the gap around the mounting ring with the Visaton does make a difference, it just wasn't as apparent with the Daytona 2 soundtrack.
Finally, at the start of this waffle I mentioned new speaker or refoam the original as options. The reason I went with the new speaker first was because when I ordered the speaker and replacement foam, the speaker arrived first.
I have since received the new foam and fitted it to the original blown speaker - there's loads of sellers and sizes available, but I can confirm this item is the perfect fit:
You'll also need glue:
Interesting that the listing states they are for 4.5" speakers - this size appears to be rare these days and that's why there are so few speaker replacement options available and the ones that do fit are slightly smaller than originals (hence the air gap around the mounting ring).
Anyway, not tested yet, but the process of replacing was fairly straightforward.
1. Remove all traces of perished foam and glue from original speaker and frame (don't use degreaser on speaker cone).
2. Flatten tiny raised tabs in speaker frame to achieve nice flat surface area for new foam.
3. Do a dry test fit to understand where exactly the foam fits - it's a very nice fit within the frame edge so easy to make concentric (dry anyway!)
4. Apply glue generously to frame and speaker cone where new foam will rest (sorry, no pics as time was critical).
5. Glue starts to go off within a couple of minutes and it takes time to apply the glue all the way round so act fast gently placing the new foam centrally and gently pressing it into place.
6. When the glue feels like it's started to take, add some light weight to the surface to allow it to cure overnight - tape reels were good and I also added pegs in each corner when I was fitting the foam.
7. Hope you haven't made an awful sticky mess and check back the following day!
I'll fit this refoamed speaker when the next one blows.. so probably in a few weeks then!!
