Monitor Help , AC / DC Hantarex US250.

[TheDaddy]

So firstly I have never had CRT's or repaired any CRT's so dont have much of an idea about them , Hence the ask for help.

In my cab there is a screen (Not original) that has 2 white power cables shown here :-



So at this point you assume that this a Neutral & Live (110v). So there is no polarity on the cables , Hence I could not see it being DC else there would have to be polarity right ?? Or am I wrong ?? Anyway I am just looking at the PSU and have the output here :-



And as you can see its 135VDC ??? I am confused a bit here is it DC or AC ?? I just assumed the monitor was 115v AV as there is no polarity and one was Neutral and one was Live.

Please enlighten me !

Also the degauss on the screen does not work (I know there is no cables direct for that though). Or I assume its not. Will post about this separate at some point.

Dave.

Also as a note 4 Is Neutral and 3 Is 240v Live I assume (Not isolated) :-

 

[gunblade]

the output is 135dc for the monitor from these psu, if you want to connect to that chassis just put the + wire to the fuse
i have no idea even what that chassis is

 

[TheDaddy]

the output is 135dc for the monitor from these psu, if you want to connect to that chassis just put the + wire to the fuse
i have no idea even what that chassis is

Is pin 1 or pin 2 + ?? Yeh i have no clue on screen either this is the label :-



It is working but I need to check pin 3 & 4 as these are 240 AC and I think they may be tied together (But if they were it would blow right ?) and they are the degauss thing.

Dave.

 

[gunblade]

1 and 2, ignore 3 and 4 as its only used on mtc900, 9000, 9000a chassis
your chassis degauss is powered via 115v input, although i have no idea if that degauss ptc would work on a dc supply as its probably rated ac
in my opinion this monitor should powered by a 120vac isolation transformer, might even be 100vac but i need to know chassis make/model

 

[Georgian2]

The degaus coil won't work with DC. Coil resistence is too low and no magnetic effect. The PTC will do it's job and get warm/hot.

 

[TheDaddy]

Ah that explains a few things , I still have no clue how it even works on the DC at all ! lol.

@gunblade I have no idea what the chasis is at all there is no marking on it or anything. Would a 120v Isolation transformer do ?? I will put a wanted up shortly if so.

Unless anyone reading has a spare one ??

Big thanks to both as I have no clue when it comes to these, I realy do love this community. We should all buy an island and move there so we can be together ! LOL.

Dave.

 

[jengineer]

chassis is a Sanwa

 

[gunblade]

Jeez that's old, it would be 100v chassis - whether it needs an iso or not I do not know
Probably would be ok on 115
bet the caps are 40 years old

 

[TheDaddy]

I have ordered a 110v isolation so hoping that will be ok and degaus will work. Fingers crossed !

May recap but picture seemed ok bar degaus issue. Caps noy bulging at all.

Dave.

 

[Lurch666]

40 years? That's a young un compared to some of us.

 

[Phils Arcade]

40 years? That's a young un compared to some of us.

Funny that. The older I get, the more parts stop working, lol.

 

[TheDaddy]

I am dreading getting to 40

Dave.

 

[TheDaddy]

Does anyone know if I can get a remote board for this screen ?? On reflection I may not need it as I am 99% sure this will be dedicated , but again I may stick other games in it from time to time. Its a pain in the arse keep going around the back !

Dave.

 

[Bods]

Could have done getting cab with common Hantarex monitor in really, It's good having remote board as it's right pain swapping different make pcbs as you end up altering the brightness as well as height and width, ideally need a cab for each make and having to use a mirror if you can't see while adjusting

 

[Hexen]

So firstly I have never had CRT's or repaired any CRT's so dont have much of an idea about them , Hence the ask for help.

In my cab there is a screen (Not original) that has 2 white power cables shown here :-

View attachment 35036

So at this point you assume that this a Neutral & Live (110v). So there is no polarity on the cables , Hence I could not see it being DC else there would have to be polarity right ?? Or am I wrong ?? Anyway I am just looking at the PSU and have the output here :-

View attachment 35038

And as you can see its 135VDC ??? I am confused a bit here is it DC or AC ?? I just assumed the monitor was 115v AV as there is no polarity and one was Neutral and one was Live.

Please enlighten me !

Also the degauss on the screen does not work (I know there is no cables direct for that though). Or I assume its not. Will post about this separate at some point.

Dave.

Also as a note 4 Is Neutral and 3 Is 240v Live I assume (Not isolated) :-

View attachment 35047

Is there a bridge rectifier on the monitor PCB?

If not then DC as the PSU suggests, but the schematis's too small so I can't read any figures.

Easy to build a supply for it if you have a 240 to 100/110V transformer. Just a few components.

The polarity will be easy to find - one of the leads will be connected to GND/DAG etc. the other will be positive.

 

[Hexen]

chassis is a Sanwa

AH! It literally says AC on the board where the leads are soldered.

chassis is a Sanwa

Doesn't the board literally say 'AC' where theleads enter?

 

[TheDaddy]

AH! It literally says AC on the board where the leads are soldered.

Doesn't the board literally say 'AC' where theleads enter?

Better eyes than me but yeh says AC ! Ordered a 110v ac one so hopefully the degaus will work. Convergence is shocking at minute.

Dave.

 

[TheDaddy]

Could have done getting cab with common Hantarex monitor in really, It's good having remote board as it's right pain swapping different make pcbs as you end up altering the brightness as well as height and width, ideally need a cab for each make and having to use a mirror if you can't see while adjusting

Ye I agree Bods , I am 99% sure this just going to be converted to a dedicated Wonderboy , I want another machine with a screen that will rotate and has the remote board so I can stick prety mcuh anything in at and rotate from time to time. Will keep my eye out for one once I have space. I dont have many PCB's though only 300 or so , Think I need more !

Dave.

 

[Georgian2]

Ye I agree Bods , I am 99% sure this just going to be converted to a dedicated Wonderboy , I want another machine with a screen that will rotate and has the remote board so I can stick prety mcuh anything in at and rotate from time to time. Will keep my eye out for one once I have space. I dont have many PCB's though only 300 or so , Think I need more !

Dave.

Quadro games Jumbo/Variable is the cab you are looking for but don't know yet.

 

[69er]

Does anyone know if I can get a remote board for this screen ?? On reflection I may not need it as I am 99% sure this will be dedicated , but again I may stick other games in it from time to time. Its a pain in the arse keep going around the back !

Dave.

For all you youngsters - here is a workshop tip from the real ‘Daddy’

No front remote screen adjust device — get a make-up mirror like women carry in handbags small enough to fit toolbox but big enough to reflect

Doing freelance pub and Motorway service area video game repairs for Associated Leisure for a while in the mid 80s I always had a folding compact one in my jacket pocket…… still in toolbox to this day!

Stand behind the machine so you can safely see where your fingers are touching chassis pots and hold the mirror in outstretched other hand to reflect screen picture

Or hang a mirror on the wall opposite the machine,

I probably have monitors much older than that and remember some of the old Zaccaria cabs had converted Phillips Redifusion TV s with the tuning circuit boards removed… some I too forget what make they were hitachi toei etc and many oddball ones too!