Advice on electrics in gamesroom

[bonehead]

Right, I am at the stage for the electrician to start on the barn. I am having 17 double sockets fitted on 2 ring mains downstairs for the cabs.
I would like each double socket to be switched on from a bank of switches just inside the main door. As most machines have the on off switches at the back of the cab I wanted to be able to switch them on from a main control panel. With this type of method I could switch on each double socket from one point.

Is this a good idea? My electrician says he has beer come across the idea before.

How does everyone else operate the on off situation of machines in their games room? I don't want to switch them all on with an isolation switch as that would mean I have 35 machines on at once!!! Chances are it would only be me playing 1 machine at a time.

Any advice would be cool please as I hope to start the electrics eay this week.

Cheers,

 

[IDCHAPPY]

Steve, it's your money, do what the feck you want

I have 1 candy powered off a double socket, 4 powered off a 100v site transformer that is connected to a 6 socket extension lead and 3 cabs powered off a 4 plug extension cable, I usually fire some up at a time so I can browse between them

 

[bonehead]

Into used to have 10 machines running off a extension lead with a 6 socket and 4 socket extension lead. Never had any problems. As its a new build I wanted to get it right first time. Also with all the health and safety problems an insurance I need to make sure it is safe to have that many cabs on if I need too.

Steve

 

[forcefulfil]

Does seem a strange request,i have 15 on a ring,with double sockets in the ceiling above the machine for easy access to switch each one on/off
thats the norm id say,but if you have money to burn,you can request watever you like

 

[bonehead]

Well, the extra switch panel and breakers is only £100 to buy and the extra work needed to wire it in is not a problem. It is only a switch wire to each double socket. I am helping with the labour to keep the costs down. I was just unsure how other people have done it.
Didn't guddler have a switch panel fitted in his new gamesroom? I thought I saw it on his gamesroom blog?

I could put the sockets in the ceiling but then they are visible as you walk into the room.

I should have thought about all this weeks ago I guess.

Keep the ideas coming as they are all helpful.

 

[DanP]

I have a similar setup to the one you're proposing. I have 22 single sockets all switched to a control panel by the door. I switch each cab I want on one at a time, it cost more do get done but it's much more convenient.

Dan

 

[guddler]

I did it the way you're asking the first games room I built. It's not unusual at all. I can tell you that he'll be swearing at you in the end though. I had two banks of four switches I think and it was a right fecker fitting all the wires in (I did it myself in 2003 just before the rules changed then just got someone to inspect it afterwards).

Two things to consider:

1. Telling people which switch to hit if you're doing something to a machine and you'd like them to just switch it on or off is a nightmare! You know which one it is, but try getting that through to your Mrs. "The third from the left". "No woman. LEFT I said" (as the beer fridge goes off!!)

2. When one of you machines goes super nova you have to run past whatever obstacles may be in your path to get to the switch and then YOU have to remember which one it is!!! (although I did have a main "kill switch" just above for such occasions).

The alternative is to have individual switched sockets (or doubles) above or behind every couple of machines. This works too, but also has it's disadvantages. I have to prod the switches on and off with a broom handle. Far from ideal.

The second time I built a games room I couldn't be arsed and just went for option 2.

Option 1 was nice however. They're called Grid switches and MK do them at least. I'm sure plenty of other people do as well.

Martin.

guddler2013-10-20 20:46:09

 

[bonehead]

Thanks guys. Think I will go with the grid switch. All the cables will run along trunking which means you can put switch sockets in it where ever you want. I could put all single sockets in but it would be loads of switch wires then. I guess I will need to think either single or double sockets?

I think it would be easier to operate. I will number each cab at the front and correspond that number to each grid switch.

Cheers,

Steve

 

[bomjac]

All depends on how fancy you want to make it. A good electrician will be able to do whatever you want with combinations of switches and relays (or solid states). A simple set up of two 4×5 grids will give you 40 ways, but you have to remember that your normal double socket has 2 individual switches fed from 1 supply, so if you want each cab to switch individually then each cab will need its own socket. 40 individual ways also means 40 individual power feeds (you could loop neutral and earth to reduce the wiring) and would require trunking for the modt cost effective solution.

What about combining a grid switch with some 4 or 5 way RC sockets? I have my Roby, Defender, Stargate & Centi all hooked into one 4 way RC socket. Works really well as it allows me to switch them individually or all together.

Power wise allow for 1 amp per cab, but be aware that the inrush could be 5-7 times that on initial power up. As a sidenote, 9:30 am at play expo this year on the opening day 2 of the cab islands had tripped. The company supplying the electrics had up to 40 cabs on a 1 phase 32a supply lol. Fortunately after a reset the supplies held.

Drop me a pm with your plans and lets see what I can help with.

 

[Muppz]

I agree with most of the above, but I'd personally allow more than 1A per machine. Monitor is circa 100W (5A) then add Marque Lamp, power to coin mechs if they are sentinels mechs or such like, any other illumination, then the game board which could vary massively depending on the age and complexity. I'd up it to 1.5A if not 2A per machine to be on the safe side.

I'm assuming the Barn has its own mains feed and DP/CU and is not being fed from your domestic CU otherwise you'll be limited to 20A for an external circuit (the whole Barn) from a domestic CU.

 

[bonehead]

Not sure what you mean by dp/cu?
It has a feed direct after the mains meter which goes throug a 63a fused isolation switch. Then via a armour plated cable to the new barn with a massive fuse box. I have told the electrician that each cab could draw 5amp so the switches in the switch grid need to be 10 amp rated.
He works on a lot of commercial electrics so is upto date with current draw and such.

Steve

 

[Muppz]

Not sure what you mean by dp/cu?

CU = consumer unit (domestic fuse box)

DP = distribution point/board (non domestic version of above)

It has a feed direct after the mains meter which goes throug a 63a fused isolation switch. Then via a armour plated cable to the new barn with a massive fuse box.
Steve

In that case my assumption was correct, and the 20A limitation is a moot point.

 

[bomjac]

Only time you will draw any where near 5amps is when you initially power on a cab. The transformers have an inrush current of up to 10 times normal current. 100 watts for the crt/chassis, 18 watts for the marquee and then 100 watts for the psu will still leave you 1 amp max per normal cab. The 5 amps mentioned for a 100w crt is the fuse size that should be fitted, not the amps it draws (approx 0.5 amps).

 

[bonehead]

Ok thanks for the advice. I have no plans drawn up for the electrics in the barn just thought I would go with what would look good.

I am still waiting at home for the electrician to turn up yet again!!!! He seems a bit un reliable to me so far.
Still I can get on with fitting the celotex, another job I have been putting off for some time.

 

[Muppz]

The 5 amps mentioned for a 100w crt is the fuse size that should be fitted, not the amps it draws (approx 0.5 amps).

I thought I'd mentioned I'd typo'd that but obviously it didn't make the final cut of the post

Muppz2013-10-21 15:37:36

 

[floodito]

Hey Steve,

Grid switches would definitely be the most elegant solution. I suppose it ultimately depends on whether you want them switched individually using a single socket or are happy to turn on 2 at a time with a double. I wouldn't wire it the way you're suggesting though.
If you use 2 ring mains then a switch wire from each back to the switch bank you would have in effect a 10 amp light switch on a ring main which although would work and you would not exceed the 10 amps would be considered bad practice and if I were you make me feel slightly uncomfortable.
A better solution would be to take the feeds to the switch bank and use radials. Each radial circuit would be run from a 16 amp mcb so be able to feed 2 banks of 4 switches if you use single sockets or 1 bank of 4 switches if you use double sockets, basically 8 cabs per radial. Use double pole switches which look the same but are rated at 20 amps and will switch both live and neutral and just link across the back of the switches. The load side would then feed the sockets. The only other thing to consider is the size of trunking you need to take that amount of cables.
If it was me I'd go with the single socket option. You could always label each switch with a sprite from the game!

Hope that helps and makes sense.

Good luck with the project, it's looking awesome!

Brett

 

[bonehead]

Thanks again for the input. I will put it to the electrician if he ever turns up. He did suggest that e was not comfortable using a 10 amp switch for a double socket.

I will see what he suggests with all the input people have given me. I could have individual sockets but that would mean 34 sockets and 34 switches on the grid plate!!! That would be interesting switching them all on and off!!!

 

[Bods]

I've done 1 bank of 8 in my loft,

2 banks of 8 in the arcade

1 bank of 12 in the extension and the electrician did 1 bank of 6 in the first extension

Whats unusual about MK Grid system, most business premises used them for years, and have multiple different lights, fans etc connected to them

They are a bit of a pain to do, but after you have done one, you know what to do so it's not that bad

 

[anj]

steve , this would not be done on a ring , easy method , fit a 18 w consumer unit by the door with 17 20A mcb's in it one for each socket , wire them all radial 1 socket per breaker , run in 2.5mm cable , give me a bell if you want to no more its how some of the arcades i have worked in are done ,