Yup, just saw it, I messed up, going to fix it asap.No, man. Yellow should be +12V. Blue is -12V (negative 12V).
Yup, just saw it, I messed up, going to fix it asap.No, man. Yellow should be +12V. Blue is -12V (negative 12V).
Yup, that's why I had to get that bodge wire, I saw the positions wrong on the 12v, missed the -, fixed and now working as intended, thanks a lot for the heads up mate!!You didn't mess up big time, so don't worry. That blue cable for -12V most likely isn't routed to the edge connector.
I have one arriving today! Just solder it to the ground and one of the 5v pins on the edge connector right Lurch? Thanks a lot!You can.
But be aware that adjusting it too high could damage the PCB.
I have a cheap little LED voltage indicator attached to the +5V line so I can always see the voltage output.
View attachment 44739
Yup. Then use your multimeter to adjust the trim pot in the back to the correct voltage.I have one arriving today! Just solder it to the ground and one of the 5v pins on the edge connector right Lurch? Thanks a lot!![]()
Thanks for the heads up! Toki is really one of the hungriest I have, damn ape likes volts.Always turn the voltage back down again when swapping boards and recalibrate from there.
Just because it's set at 5v for one board won't mean it'll be 5v for the next one as the power draw will be different![]()
On the way! Thank you!Yes, you can put a switch inline on the AC cable. That's exactly what's happening in a cabinet that has a on/off switch.