Atari brick voltage selector plug

jjs1230

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Hi,

I'm just starting to fault find an Atari Dig Dug upright that was imported (by the person I bought from) from the US.

It has a yellow plug (A021084-02) for 120v but I'm going to need a brown plug (A021084-05) for the UK 240v mains.

It has no other plugs in the cabinet - can anyone point me to a brown plug for sale rather than adapt this one?

Thanks in advance,

Justin
 

itruk

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I just happened to modify four of these last night, using the yellow and red plugs that were supplied to me by another member on here.
Three for him and one of my own.

@Wall_Street your three plugs are ready 😂

If you have a pin extractor, then it is easy to pop them and change the pins around.
Then snip the US plug off and fit a UK plug on the end, Black is live, White is neutral.

 

jjs1230

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Thanks for the reply. Yes UK plug attached which matches your colour translations.

I could adapt my yellow but I'll wait and see if anyone has a spare brown or a doner I could buy.

I think another thread suggested the pin config as below...

GRAY WIRING (200v)
9 - 7 connected
8 - 2 connected
5 - 3 connected

BLUE WIRING (220v)
9 - 7 connected
8 - 2 connected
4 - 3 connected

BROWN WIRING (240v)
9 - 7 connected
8 - 1 connected
4 - 3 connected

VIOLET WIRING (100v)
9 - 7 connected
8 - 5 - 2 connected
6 - 3 connected

YELLOW WIRING (120v)
9 - 7 connected
8 - 4 - 1 connected
6 - 3 connected
 

Mr20to5

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Yeah, as above, if you already have a jumper connector, set to US settings, just look up in the manual (online) what pins are needed for UK voltage and swap them over.

You can carefully remove the current pins using a micro screw driver, by pushing the flat blade against the metal pins that hold them in place.
 

Mc-Q

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repin the connector,
but before you plug it in do a few things.
check the fuses are correct for 240v - u.s. machines are fused for double the current!
infact check every fuse to make sure they have not been replaced by the wrong value or wrapped in cigarette packet foil!
check the power cable - you dont want to use that 3 core flat crap - it's not safe if it gets damaged because the insulation isnt up to scratch
and also i'v had a couple of people tell me original power cables from around 1982 are starting to break down and the plastic is turning to sticky goo - so cable inspection is wise.
 

jjs1230

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Thanks Mc-Q

The cable on this isn't the flat one like my galaxian so I know the type you mean, it's actually quite a nice black 3 core flex just in US colours but I'll double check now you've mentioned it.

I think I will re-pin as suggested, easier than hanging on for a brown one to come along.

All the fuses look genuine (and baked in dust) but one has blown, this looks promising https://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1769/atari-fuse-kit.htm
  • F1 - 7A Slow Blow *
  • F2 - 4A Slow Blow
  • F3 - 20A or 25A Slow Blow **
  • F4 - 4A Slow Blow
  • F5 - 4A Slow Blow
  • F6 - 3A Slow Blow ***
* European 220/240VAC games use 4ASB 250V fuse.
** 25ASB is used In models Ending With -04,-05 & -06.
*** Is Listed As 4ASB (overfused) And 3ASB is now supplied.

I'm thinking of doing the blue capacitor as well. Anything else on here that I should do to give it a 2024 refresh?
 
Last edited:

jjs1230

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itruk - Thanks for that, helped me double check my thinking. I've just done it and it powers up and I'm getting 110v on the monitor plug. Nothing else plugged in yet, just going to measure all the voltages on the big plug next and see if I've got a suitable fuse to replace my popped one. US to UK was pretty simple actually, remove Pin 4 from the plug and remove it's connection (skotchlock type) to the other wires. Remove pin Pin 6 and put it into the now vacant 4 to create the 3 >> 4 link required.

Fuse 5 is the one that has popped, 4A slow blow.
 
Last edited:

Mc-Q

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if you look at the underside of the tray,
early ones had a pcb with 2 6A diodes that get damned hot - newer ones had a 25A or 35A bridge rectifier bolted to the metal
 
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