Atomiswave / Egret Coin Mech Help

chefsolid

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Hi all, I have a board which I need to feed credits to rather than run in freeplay mode however this is a challenge due to me not having a coin mech to 'click' / drop coins through.



I've had a rummage around near the coin door and I've found a pair of suspiciously unplugged cables which I feel will be the ones I need to play with, however I have no clue what to wire to where in order to get a switch hooked up. In reality I don't even know what type of switch I would need.



Could anyone point me in the right direction so I can add some credits please? Apologies if this is a stupid post but I've only recently bought a machine after many years of pining for one. I have had a search on the forums but I think I'm using the wrong search terms as I'm not coming up with anything of value.

Thanks
 

phillv85

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Is there a service switch on the cab, that usually coins up games. It'll probably be on the power supply, or possibly on a board inside the control panel. Or it could be those red ones inside the coin mech door I can see on the pic
smiley1.gif
 

obcd

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A classic coin acceptor needs 12V supply and GND to operate. When a coin is inserted, it will pull an output to GND for 100ms to indicate that a valid coin has passed. It usually has multiple of those outputs for different coins. Some game boards don't like it if a coin pulse is not around 100ms in length. On a connector for a coin acceptor, you might find the 12V and GND wire. You might also find a wire with 5V or 3V3 on it. If you connect that wire to gnd with a 1K resistor, it's voltage should drop, indicating that it's truly an input that doesn't need excessive current to be pulled to ground. A lot of coin acceptors use a 10 pins (2 rows of five) 0.1 inch connector of which the pins are a standard between different brands. They have one inhibit input as well that is used to disable the coin acceptor (like during startup of the game or when it's unable to accept coin inputs)
 

Mr Halibut

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You could try testing continuity between a pin on the plug and the "coin 1" pin on the jamma connector until you find the right one. Looking at the jamma loom you can also see what wire colour you're looking for and maybe actually trace it all the way to the correct plug if it's not too messy.

On my E2 the coin mech is connected via two spade terminals and doesn't look like either of those plugs, maybe it's different depending on E2/E3/AWSD?
 

Andypc

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I have a spare coin mech if your interested. I imported a few for Egret 2 restoration. PM me if your interested.
 

cools

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A Japan coin mech needs no power. I can't see the pics but every single cab I've had has been the same - a yellow and black pair of spade connectors that just connect to a micro switch that gets pressed by the coin falling past it
 

obcd

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You might mean a mechanical coin mech instead of a Japan coin mech.

Indeed, a mechanical coin mech checks coin size and thickness and routes the coin differently when it's within tolerance. Machines equiped with such a coin mech normally have a microswitch below that coin mech that is activated by the coin. The wires are connected to that microswitch using spade connectors.

In such case, most of the time, when they remove the coin mech, they don't remove the microswitch with it.

In such case, the duration that the switch is activated doesn't matter either.

I am working 12 years in the coin operated industry, and the last coin mechs dissapeared 10 years ago. They got replaced by the electronic ones with the same size, only slightly thicker.

So some brands don't fit very well in the holders provided for the mechanical types.

All coins changed here when the switch was made to euro. Maybe those coin mechs are still more popular in the non euro countries.
 

cools

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Now I can see the pictures, neither of those cables is for the coin mechanism in that machine. I'd need to do some rummaging in mine to find out exactly what, but the one on the left looks to be the stereo connector.

Couple of pics of mine. I've removed the AD81P mech from the cradle to take them.
IMG_20140902_080121.jpg
IMG_20140902_080218.jpg
 

chefsolid

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Hi all,

I tried the service switch and that doesn't coin up. I've also had a look around inside and I can't find any cables with spade connectors, I actually can't find any loose connectors except the ones I posted and they don't appear to be correct is the consensus.

Where would the wires run from?, I have two boards inside the machine pictured below and one at the back which appears to have RCA jacks for sound, an amp I'm guessing :-D

 

Andypc

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I just sent you a pm. I have a spare coin mech, but you seem to be missing the microswitch that should sit below it. The japanese coin mech's are mechanical.
 

chefsolid

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I've made some progress on this and am now clear that the wires for Coin1 are just not there. Whilst this sucks its an opportunity to learn something so not all bad.

I need to connect a wire and pin into one of these:

http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/JST_RA (60 pin)

However the pin I need - RA-SC1290 26-22 AWG wire seems none to common, I'm guessing these are called something else and are freely available? can anyone point me in the right direction including the wire I would need?

Thanks
 

strykr

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chefsolid said:
I've made some progress on this and am now clear that the wires for Coin1 are just not there. Whilst this sucks its an opportunity to learn something so not all bad.

I need to connect a wire and pin into one of these:

http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/JST_RA (60 pin)

However the pin I need - RA-SC1290 26-22 AWG wire seems none to common, I'm guessing these are called something else and are freely available? can anyone point me in the right direction including the wire I would need?

Thanks

pin_16.jpg


Where is this wire going? This and a ground should run off to spades for the microswitch.
strykr2014-09-04 21:08:33
 
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