Chihiro maintenance

channel27

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Holy crap!
Is that the one I sold you? Looks like it may have recently blown?

I've had that in storage for well over 5 years, pretty sure we replaced the larger caps on all the boards, the blue ones to the right of that blown cap maybe?

I'm gonna have to check my other ones now.
Yeah, this is that one.
I’ve removed it now and there’s no residue on the board itself at all so It looks like it’s only just recently gone.

All the other caps look very new (the ones by the blown cap and the 5 by the CPU all look very good).

I bit the bullet and refreshed the thermal paste on both the CPU and GPU (by heating up the GPU heatsink with a hot air gun set to 150 degrees for a few minutes until the heatsink came away - It was stuck solid)

I think it’s impossible to “bullet proof” Chihiros (the cooling system is fundamentally flawed add the BGA connected chips are unforgiving) but touch wood this one is as good as it can be 👍
 

channel27

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Stubborn heatsink thermal gunk removal tip

As mentioned above, the heatsink on the GPU was stuck solid. I'd advise against prying it off as the chip underneath is fixed using BGA rather than pins. Heat has been doing its best to break that chip for 20 years so don't help it out by cracking it off with a screwdriver :D

The safest way to remove it is with a little heat. You can use a hairdryer but I've got a (albeit cheap) rework station with a hot air gun so I set it to 150 and warmed the heatsink up for a few minutes, moving in a circular motion. After about 3 minutes the heatsink released with a very gentle twisting motion.

Unfortunately, the residue left on both the chip and the heatsink was not like any thermal compound I've seen. Maybe it was the 20 years its been on there, or maybe it's just a very heavy duty thermal adhesive but it's thick, hard, sticky in places and won't budge with any amount of isopropyl.

Attacking the chip with a scraper or knife didn't seem like a good idea but I remembered I had a bottle of jollup that I use for removing sticky residue called Sticky Stuff Remover so I thought I'd very carefully give that a go.

Using a soaked q-tip and being careful not to get the stuff anywhere other than on the chip itself (I've no idea what's in it...), it came off easily after leaving it on for a few minutes to break the compound down. After dying with a lint free cloth and cleaning it again with isopropyl, no old thermal compound remains: -

IMG_0968.jpg

It's been rebuilt with new thermal compound and fans and I'm happy to say it's all back up and running.

Obviously, feel free to educate me as to why putting Sticky Stuff Remover near a board is a bad idea, but it seemed like the least invasive solution :D

Many thanks again to Vamino for the replacement motherboard (y)
 
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Shun

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I’m reading this with interest as I want to pick up a Chihiro at some point in the future. I’ve seen repair videos on electronics where they replace electrolytic caps with surface mount ceramic caps. I don’t know if that is possible in this scenario or even if replacing electrolytic with ceramic is a good thing to do or not, but ceramic ones don’t leak do they? If it’s possible, would that take away the worry of the caps leaking at some point?
 

channel27

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I’m reading this with interest as I want to pick up a Chihiro at some point in the future. I’ve seen repair videos on electronics where they replace electrolytic caps with surface mount ceramic caps. I don’t know if that is possible in this scenario or even if replacing electrolytic with ceramic is a good thing to do or not, but ceramic ones don’t leak do they? If it’s possible, would that take away the worry of the caps leaking at some point?
I think the main problem is that all Xboxes used crap electrolytic capacitors that are prone to failure (https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:Clock_Capacitor)
Touch wood, these new electrolytic capacitors will last for many more years than the rubbish originals.

The ongoing issue will always be the boards poor thermal management. There's no temperature monitoring or protection circuit to turn the system off before the GPU cooks itself in the event that the GPU fan fails. I've replaced this one with a 40mm Noctua and added a row of external fans that some other members have suggested so the board has the best chance.

Trouble is, I put new fans in my original board but it still cooked itself (new fans in the case and new AC exhaust fans to move the hot air out of the cabinet). Maybe the board was half dead before I swapped the fan out? We'll see if this one cooks too... :oops:
 

Shun

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I got an Xbox original for free, years ago. I recently saw a video about the clock capacitor and then opened up my Xbox and removed it. Luckily it hadn’t leaked everywhere. If and when I do get a Chihiro I’ll have to have a look into some of these fan mods. Perhaps someone could be brave enough and water cool one 😅.
 
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