daytona 2 cab conversion

terminator2k2

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Hi there , thought I would share the progress on my latest purchase, which was a empty Daytona usa 2 cab.

so far ive installed:

32 inch monitor
I-pac
Pac drive led controller
Logitech wheel pcb
L2M2 Force feedback pcb
5.1 sound System
home made VR panel
sega gears 3 switch input to 4 outputs

running from a pc running Hyperspin with the following so far:

Model 2 emulator
Model 3 emulator
Triforce Mario kart gp2
Grid Auto sport
Out run 2 sp (pc version , modified by howard over on boyac forums)

just after I got it home:

tgBHysT.jpg


then built up:

WvnvdCu.jpg


VR panel:

8qRaMtj.jpg


rear wiring:

bbXEx0U.jpg


terminator2k22017-08-19 21:27:26
 

Vamino

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Just seen this thread.
Really nice job so far mate.
smiley20.gif


A couple of questions as I've currently got a mame driver project I really need to complete that's is stopping me from starting the next project!
smiley36.gif


Where did you get the L2M2 pcb from?
What 32' screen did you use?
How much has the project cost so far?

Cheers.
 

terminator2k2

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hi there, I got the l2m2 from panpar227 on this forum...

the screen is a SAMSUNG UE32J5100 connected via hdmi to the pc.

overall cost so far :

empty Daytona 2 cab = £150
l2m2 + Logitech pcb and powersupply = £45
Ipac = £20
Pacdrive and buttons for vr panel = £35
100v transformer = £20
pc bits = roughly £70
creative 5.1 speakers = £20
Samsung screen = £240
3 switch to 4 output for gears = £5 (home made)

don't like looking at what I spent lol....

just ordered acrylic for the monitor bezel...

and after playing the modded outrun 2 sp pc version...I now crave a outrun 2 sp cab

smiley17.gif
terminator2k22015-09-22 17:45:51
 

Vamino

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terminator2k2 said:
hi there, I got the l2m2 from panpar227 on this forum...

the screen is a SAMSUNG UE32J5100 connected via hdmi to the pc.

overall cost so far :

empty Daytona 2 cab = £150
l2m2 + Logitech pcb and powersupply = £45
Ipac = £20
Pacdrive and buttons for vr panel = £35
100v transformer = £20
pc bits = roughly £70
creative 5.1 speakers = £20
Samsung screen = £240
3 switch to 4 output for gears = £5 (home made)

don't like looking at what I spent lol....

just ordered acrylic for the monitor bezel...

and after playing the modded outrun 2 sp pc version...I now crave a outrun 2 sp cab

smiley17.gif

That price is not too bad tbh mate!
When you are throwing 100's at boards that can fail any time, 600 for a 32' Sega driver with working force feedback is a pretty good price!

I do need a L2M2 myself so I can get the Mame cab out the door and get some work space back!
I've also got most of the parts for an OR2 cab scattered everywhere around the house, but no space to build it! With the projects I have taking up space, as soon as I can start the OR2 that will need to go as soon as it's finished as well!

What a situation I've created for myself.
smiley36.gif


Retrorepair is selling a couple of OR2 cabs at a good prices in the for sale forum.
smiley2.gif
 

terminator2k2

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haha I know the feeling, I live in a flat so its no fun trying to get things in and out....I once had a gti club upright stuck at the top of the stairs lieing on its back whilst we were taking off lol...me missus wasn't impressed at all lol....the driving cabs are nice and easy though once stripped down....im waiting for the photos from of the outrun 2 machine, but also got to see what the missus says lol....

this is how it looks at the mo:

11226908.jpg
terminator2k22015-09-22 20:26:16
 

Vamino

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The artwork looks really nice on your D2 mate, you did well to find those.
smiley1.gif

Did you wire up the speakers and sub in the seat? If so, how are you controlling the volume, are you using a remote or some sort of service panel?

Thanks.
 

terminator2k2

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ive hooked up the seat left and right and subwoofer to a creative 5.1 system without the centre speaker...the front left and right is sitting on top of the cab for time being until I build a marquee , which will house the front left and right.

the volume control is controlled by pressing the start + yellow for volume down and start + green for volume up.

I set up a script in the ipac to do this as a shift button, that's why you press start + the other button.

this works along side an auto hotkey script which is running which turns the volume up and down and its these buttons which are mapped to the ipac script.

sounds a bit confusing but it works well and can send them to you if you need them...terminator2k22015-09-24 10:23:53
 

strykr

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Nice!! Can I also ask what powers supply your using for the l2m2? I have the same setup as you just never got the force feedback working. And am just running the vanilla pc version. Would be nice to get the ff working.
 

Dazzzzz

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very nice work mate, currently in the process of doing my cab and im having a problem with the gears and you mentioned "sega gears 3 switch input to 4 outputs"

can you expand on what this is and how i could make one? and how do you connect it?

thanks!
 

terminator2k2

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strykr said:
Nice!! Can I also ask what powers supply your using for the l2m2? I have the same setup as you just never got the force feedback working. And am just running the vanilla pc version. Would be nice to get the ff working.

its this 1 , I run both the Logitech pcb and l2m2 from it:

power supply
 

terminator2k2

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Dazzzzz said:
very nice work mate, currently in the process of doing my cab and im having a problem with the gears and you mentioned sega gears 3 switch input to 4 outputs

can you expand on what this is and how i could make one? and how do you connect it?

thanks!

the sega 4 gear shifter only uses 3 micro switches for 4 gears , so it cant be wired directly to a I-pac or similar.

so I used a 74LS138 to convert to 4 outputs.

heres a little diagram I put together,

When I did mine I took the 5v and ground supply from the pc power supply, wired the outputs to a I-pac and run a ground wire from the gear mod to the I-PAC. Also this isn't my work, I found this on you tube and it works great.

sega_shifter.jpg
terminator2k22015-09-30 21:54:41
 

Dazzzzz

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Thank you, thats exactly what i was looking for, thats a much neater solution than what i was thinking i would need (thought i would have to make my own circuit with AND & OR gates etc.)

just ordered a couple off ebay so should be here in a couple of days

thanks for the help
 

terminator2k2

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Im sure a wire from the shifter has to go to the ground connection of the circuit aswell, if i remember the shifter has a 4 wire connector and the 4th is ground. Its been a while since i did mine , ill try and have a look later.

You can also wire it , so it outputs neutral, but I can see it causing problems, it would be like having a stuck key on the keyboard when ever you leave the stick in neutral. The i-pac shift function wouldn't work either. I have start wired for enter (1st yellow button), and Left key wired for vr1 (Red button).I use the I-pac shifted key Yellow + Red button (enter + Left key) for escape, and with it in gear it doesn't function. so it would be the same if you wired the neutral to a key.

This should be the 1.

sega_shifter1.jpg
terminator2k22015-10-01 12:13:04
 

terminator2k2

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well today my clear acrylic turned up eventually....

rsz_20151001_1606241.jpg


the smaller piece will be for when I sort some kind of marquee...

the larger piece will be for the screen bezel, which I hope will look something similar to the shape of the original bezel....

this will be done tomorrow on my home made plastic bending contraption...
 
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