Daytona 2 resurrection/restoration

[Vamino]

The rams are surface mount on the video board and rarely its actually the rams.

And if the custom is damaged the board is bin fodder.

Thanks for the reply.

Man, whenever you use the word bin fodder my heart skips a beat!
So thats the worse case scenario though? Whats the name of the board that would need replacing and what kind of price am I looking at?

I'm gonna try swapping/reseating/cleaning the roms between the 2 boards tomorrow and see what happens. Hopefully I can narrow down where the fauls are.

Anyhoo, heres a little movie of the board which has the fault.
The game is 100% playable, but it just fails that texture test and passes all the other tests.


Cheers.

 

[Outrun2]

Can't help with Model 3 stuff, but damn I love that attract sequence

PE edition too so you have the mix track option- very cool! There's always been a big debate about which version is better, BOTE or PE. I haven't played either enough to make a judgement but I think the general feeling is BOTE novice track is better, but PE has the mix option. Are all your boards the same version?

 

[Vamino]

Yeah, I also think the attract is great, the music is growing on me too.
I didn't play this when it first came out as nowhere had it by my place!

Both cages have Power edition roms/security boards mate.
I think the general concensus is the power edition is the version to have due to slightly tweaked handling/sounds. I have nothing to compare it to so am happy with what I have here.

A small update.....
I received another servo board today that the seller said was working, that didn't solve my FFB woes. So, unless I have incorrectly wired something and now have 3 faulty servo boards, it appears the control board may the issue now. Mo had 2 a while back but looks like he has sold them.

I wonder if there are any other games that use the same boards?
Does F355 use 838-13481 as the control board mate?

Cheers.

 

[Vamino]

Does anyone know if these control boards are interchangable with a Rom swap:

838-12898 (Off scud race)
838-13481 (Off Daytona 2)

All the board markings seem the same, but the part number sticker is different.

Thanks.
Vamino2014-02-12 10:31:31

 

[Outrun2]

I believe they are mate, Andy has the ROMs

http://triplemoonstar.brinkster.net/theshed/default.asp?stockid=1794

 

[Vamino]

Doh! I missed that.

Thanks mate.

Well, after messing around this morning I've now got the sound coming out the front, seat and subwoofer now. One of the amps has a really low sounding woofer, and one of the seat speakers is blown, more stuff for the scrap pile.

Hopefully I have another working gullwing speaker in the other seat.

For reference, for surround sound to front/rear/subwoofer:
Jumpers on the amp needs to be set to: Jp1 = 9 + Jp2 = 2

Next thing to do is to source a control board and clean the plastics up with some newly bought novus 1,2,3....

Cheers.
Vamino2014-02-15 00:03:12

 

[Vamino]

One step forward, 2 steps backwards....

So I dismantled the other seat and made 1 good seat from 2 as the cushions were missing.
I also tried the 2 gullwing speakers I took from the other seat......When I tested the speakers and discovered the blown speaker I think it may have blew the mixer amp, as now I don't get music from the front and I only get sound effects from the front right speaker. I'll need to try the other mixer amp tomorrow to confirm.

If I swap the cables over inside the DSB2 + change jumpers on the amp I can verfiy all speaker are working. I tried another sound amp with no change......My word, Sega really made things complicated regarding music/sound effects on these Model 3 setups.....

Anyone ever come across these types of problems before?
What a learning experience this has turned out to be....and the pile of scrap parts is ever growing!

Vamino2014-02-15 00:18:52

 

[Vamino]

Just a final update of my faultfinding/hardware testing experiences.

So the first fault:
There was no sound effects from one of the Cages, I didn't get a chance to swap over the sound roms or Rom boards over to see if the problem moved. A very kind person helped me out big time, so now I have a fully working boardset running Daytona 2:B.O.T.E.

Second fault:
Music not playing from the front rh speaker in attract mode. I managed to locate a working DSB2 board and this plays music from all the speakers, so there is either a cabling issue or a very minor fault with the DSB2 board. Since the sound effects originate from the cage, and the music is from the rear in game mode, you would not know there is a fault with the DSB2 when playing the game.

Third fault:
No force feedback. Well I bought a working servo board, no change. Then I managed to locate a working driver board, problem solved!

Now the thing that threw me off is that I had 2 boards, one with no error leds lit (easy to distinguish the board was dead

) and another board that appeared to be working as I got error leds.

When booting I got 18:18 leds, then after a while it either went to ER20 or ER22, the steering motor was keeping the wheel rigid in the center, such a strange problem. FOr reference the new board displays 00-00 when first powering on the cab (I'll have to double check later the number sequence)

So now, after many many hours of disassembling/cleaning/assembling/faultfinding/parts swapping I have a fully working cab which has the potential to turn into a real nice example of this classic game.

And, then have enough parts for a second cab which has minor faults. It hasnt been cheap tho, but it has been really fun learning how things are put together in these classic style cabs.

Now I know why people who restore these either have a massive love for the hobby, or after finishing a restore they sell the project on to start the next one and charge what appears a lot of money. I have much more respect than I did before towards the many people who repair/restore old arcade cabs.

Anyway, again many thanks to Andy, Craig and others who helped me get to this stage, now the real restoration begins.......

Here's a placeholder pic before I strip it again to get parts shotblasted and powder coated.

Cheers.

 

[Vamino]

Rather than have 2 threads, I thought it was easier to keep all my clutter in one space. So I asked Guddler to move this thread into the restoration section.....

So a brief recap, heres my progress so far and the story behind the madness.
The
following pictures were taken at different stages and I've missed out some
pictures, but I'll edit and swap things around to hopefully make it understandable
as I go along.

I
recently bought a spares or repair Daytona 2 twin cab off an Op, 3
trips/600 miles later it was in my garage. I didn't take a pic of the
condition it was in before I dismantled it unfortunately, but here's some pics of one of
the empty bases of one side of the cab I bought, both bases were in pretty much the same condition:

Luckily,
a month or so before buying this project cab I bought 2 empty Daytona 2
shells, side panels and a seat off mo. That was another 4 x 129 mile
journeys totalling approx 600 miles. My poor VW Polo!

Heres
the one of the bases I bought off Mo before cleaning up, the art on
this one is a little worse than the one I ended up using, but the
condition was more or less the same. Overall it cleaned up well, to
preserve the original art I'm not power coating the base for now:

And the footwell/footplate/seat lid which will be blasted/powercoated:

To be continued....
Vamino2014-03-03 15:53:53

 

[Vamino]

Another little update....

The frame had previously been painted, luckily the frame was in good condition overall and the paint came off easily with a light scouring pad.

Heres some pics before I got the paint off:

Pics of the plastics before cleaning:

I also completely dismantled the seat, I had 2 seats and each seat had 1 good cushion, so I made 1 good one seat from both of them. I also cleaned + lubricated the runners and cleaned/removed old sealant from the Gullwing speakers and applied some new sealant tape.

To be continued...

 

[Vamino]

So heres another little update, since I've got another project to finish this will go on the back burner for a while as I need to source some bits, do a bit more cleaning and get some paintwork powdercoated.

When I first got the cab I cleaned all the internals of the electronics, cage/PSU.DSB2 etc.
There are no pics of those, but the last thing I did was to replace a seized fan and give the working onces a clean. Thanks again to Mo for giving me a free cage with 2 working fans attached.

And heres the cage cleaned out ready for some caining!
I must also say a big thanks to Stuart at Coin gaming, without his kindness this project would have cost a lot more than it has done already. Thanks again mate.

A bad pic of the internals after cleaning/transplanting everything over into this shell, I couldn't get the flash to engage in the sunlight. Next time I have her open I'll take a better picture.

And heres the latest pic of the cab taken this afternoon, I've got slightly better panels to put and have a better bezel sticker that needs transferring over. Excuse the decrepid conservatory, I need to get the conservatory rennovated as it will eventually be my own little arcade room, I've not had the funds to do so since moving in a couple of years ago, but if everything goes to plan I'll hopefully be able to do it within the next year or so.

In the short time I've been in this hobby it's become apparent there are a lot of givers and a small amount of takers. So I just want to say a big thanks to all the givers, without their help I would just have a pile of dirty scrap parts with no idea where to start.

Words cannot describe the feeling when I play this, it's like my own little baby.

Thanks.

 

[VaNDAL_UK]

Thanks for sharing!!

Get some beers with what little money you have left and have a good play!VaNDAL_UK2014-03-07 17:03:10

 

[griffo83x]

lookin tidy mate

 

[Vamino]

Thanks guys.

It's certainly not as impressive as some of the restorations on here, but once it's finished it should look and play even nicer.

Cheers.

 

[Vamino]

Just thought I'd update this thread with a little update.

Well the twin was completed, then half of it was sold recently to a fellow forum member. Luckily I have another side which I can hopefully get up and running to turn it back into a twin, otherwise I would not have split it as it's too much fun when played in multiplayer.

Here's a short vid showing the progress throughout the restore. There are a couple of loose ends that need sorting and at some point in the future I'll be blasting and powdercoating the metalwork, but for now I'm happy that I at least got this far!

Thanks again to all the guys that helped me when I was stuck, you know who you are.

Cheers.

 

[Outrun2]

Nice one Ian - one hell of a lot of work has gone into this cab and it now looks great! Perseverance does pay off

Of course, I am the 'fellow member' who now has the pleasure of owning one side of this cracking twin, so thought I'd post in this thread to try and get some help ironing out the few little niggles that remain. Hopefully people will still be interested enough to read..??!

Cab was transported in sections by Ian and myself and put back together with no issues - my first Model 3 cab, but have worked on JVS stuff a lot and Ian has done this many times.. with this cab!

So, pretty much everything works and the game plays well, but a few minor things need fixing:

1. Switching the cab on sometimes trips the circuit breaker on the consumer unit.

2. Sub-woofer doesn't work.

3. No sound through front-right speaker during attract (this has been discusses here and should be the DSB2 board - I will replace and report back).

4. Occasional graphic glitches during attract and in-game (this seems to sort itself after a few minutes so we'll park this for now).

I should start with the switch on issue first of course, but I thought this happened due to the sub-woofer issue, so I'll start from there and explain..

The sub-woofer didn't work before the move and a blown speaker was assumed as Ian had tested the amp and low pass amp in an iD cab. I had a known working sub-woofer so we swapped it over during the re-assemble at mine. Switched on (no tripping) and all fine, except no sound from the sub. This is a known working speaker so we were a little confused; it was also late and we very tired so left it alone.

The following day I checked over the wiring before switching on and noticed a slightly loose connector on CN8 on the 4ch amp - the loom goes to the low pass amp so I thought securing it would solve the problem - a nice easy fix!

It wasn't to be as the first power on of the day resulted in the consumer unit tripping

Thinking there was a problem with the cable, or something that had resulted from the cable being secured, I checked it over and swapped it with a known good cable from another cab.

This time the cab fired up as normal but still no sound from the sub. My natural conclusion was that I'd blown the sub and tripped the consumer unit by connecting the cable somehow? Maybe there's a wiring issue?

I didn't get to test anything else, for example the sub in a known working cab, but the plot thickened later in the day when I powered on again (having made no changes since last time) and the consumer unit tripped again! The pop can't have been due to the cable so maybe this is a separate issue and the sub will still work, but the problem lies elsewhere..??

Anyway, I will test the sub again (which is a pain as it's buried in the seat) but in the meantime can someone with a Daytona 2 cab tell me what jumpers are set on their 4ch sound amp? I only have 2 jumpers set, but I know for other cabs I've converted to 4.1 that more jumpers than this need setting for the sub to fire up.

I believe this is what should be set (although the D2 schematic state this in reverse).

JP1: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10 ON

JP2: 1 ON

I'm hoping this might be the issue, at least for the sub but don't want to start fiddling with too many things at once until I have all the facts..

Any input appreciated

 

[Vamino]

Nice one Ian - one hell of a lot of work has gone into this cab and it now looks great! Perseverance does pay off

Of course, I am the 'fellow member' who now has the pleasure of owning one side of this cracking twin, so thought I'd post in this thread to try and get some help ironing out the few little niggles that remain. Hopefully people will still be interested enough to read..??!

Cab was transported in sections by Ian and myself and put back together with no issues - my first Model 3 cab, but have worked on JVS stuff a lot and Ian has done this many times.. with this cab!

So, pretty much everything works and the game plays well, but a few minor things need fixing:

1. Switching the cab on sometimes trips the circuit breaker on the consumer unit.

2. Sub-woofer doesn't work.

3. No sound through front-right speaker during attract (this has been discusses here and should be the DSB2 board - I will replace and report back).

4. Occasional graphic glitches during attract and in-game (this seems to sort itself after a few minutes so we'll park this for now).

I should start with the switch on issue first of course, but I thought this happened due to the sub-woofer issue, so I'll start from there and explain..

The sub-woofer didn't work before the move and a blown speaker was assumed as Ian had tested the amp and low pass amp in an iD cab. I had a known working sub-woofer so we swapped it over during the re-assemble at mine. Switched on (no tripping) and all fine, except no sound from the sub. This is a known working speaker so we were a little confused; it was also late and we very tired so left it alone.

The following day I checked over the wiring before switching on and noticed a slightly loose connector on CN8 on the 4ch amp - the loom goes to the low pass amp so I thought securing it would solve the problem - a nice easy fix!

It wasn't to be as the first power on of the day resulted in the consumer unit tripping

Thinking there was a problem with the cable, or something that had resulted from the cable being secured, I checked it over and swapped it with a known good cable from another cab.

This time the cab fired up as normal but still no sound from the sub. My natural conclusion was that I'd blown the sub and tripped the consumer unit by connecting the cable somehow? Maybe there's a wiring issue?

I didn't get to test anything else, for example the sub in a known working cab, but the plot thickened later in the day when I powered on again (having made no changes since last time) and the consumer unit tripped again! The pop can't have been due to the cable so maybe this is a separate issue and the sub will still work, but the problem lies elsewhere..??

Anyway, I will test the sub again (which is a pain as it's buried in the seat) but in the meantime can someone with a Daytona 2 cab tell me what jumpers are set on their 4ch sound amp? I only have 2 jumpers set, but I know for other cabs I've converted to 4.1 that more jumpers than this need setting for the sub to fire up.

I believe this is what should be set (although the D2 schematic state this in reverse).

JP1: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10 ON

JP2: 1 ON

I'm hoping this might be the issue, at least for the sub but don't want to start fiddling with too many things at once until I have all the facts..

Any input appreciated

Hi Gary,

Hopefully someone (Andy or Craig) will chime in, but for now all you have is me! This thread died a quiet death due to lack of interest so just like the cab itself it has been resurrected.

The problems.

1: Tripping consumer unit.
I've never had that issue mate and I played the cab pretty extensively, and during the couple of months Paul had the twin I don't think he tripped out the circuit breaker either. Maybe he can confirm that?

The only things i can think of are:
There are 2 sets of wires from the stepdown mate, 1 yellow pair and 2 sets of red pairs with some fuses on them. Those connect using a connector to the isolation transformer and like I mentioned the red pairs have fuses on them. I'm not sure what the yellows or reds are offhand, but they should be either 120v or 100v. Maybe connecting the stepdown to the isolation transformer using the red pair would stop the issues?

The step down was originally from a UK Scud race, maybe the isolation transformer in combination with that step down is causing the issues on your electrical ring?

I'd also put some better connectors to replace those contact blocks where I removed a load of hacked cabling, the contact blocks I used were just a temp measure tbh.

2: Subwoofer doesn't work which was mentioned before you bought the cab.

Taken from a post further up the thread:

For reference, for surround sound to front/rear/subwoofer:
Jumpers on the amp needs to be set to: Jp1 = 9 + Jp2 = 2

I was pretty sure it was the subwoofer when I tested it mate, did you try swapping the seats over to see if the D2 seat works on your UK OR2 cab? The other thing would be to check the amp and low pass on the UK cab as well, then we can know for sure where we stand regarding what doesn't work and what does. If I remember correctly you mentioned you 'thought' the sub worked as you had 3 there?

3: No sound during attract mode on the front RH speaker which was also mentioned:
It's 100% the DSB2 mate, read further up the thread where I document it. I swapped over the DSB2 before you arrived and the problem moved onto the cab you took away.

4: Slight glitch sometimes which again was mentioned:
Now this had me stumped, sometimes it works and sometimes it glitched slightly.
It may be a voltage issue or a PSU issue. You mentioned you were going to swap out the PSU for a Naomi one, if you do that in combination with new connection blocks and double checking the voltages it may solve the issue. Failing that it's likely to be a minor glitch with the Videoboard which may or may not be repairable.

If I remember correctly the diags in the game didnt throw up any errors, not that I can remember anyway.

Well I hope these issues can be sorted out easily, I now pass the baton to you and this thread now is in you capable hands after I killed it!

Some pics of the twin before dismantling which shows your cab on the right.

Cheers.

Vamino2015-04-20 15:54:15

 

[Outrun2]

Thanks for taking the time to give me your thoughts mate - I know we discussed these issues on the day but it's good to have this info in black and white. I can re-read and make sure I'm not missing anything obvious - my brain isn't what it was!!

I understand the three different transformers now, the smaller stepdown was confusing me but I now see that takes the 100v further down to 14v for the sound amp. All this happens on the main transformer in UK cabs of course so took a while for the penny to drop. This must all be ok as when the cab powers up it runs fine. I will re-check all voltages though, including the 5v and 3.3v further down the line as I've heard the Model 3 PSUs can be dodgy.

By the way, what is that white block thing attached to the power plate? Can't get to that bit until I remove the back cover which as you know won't be easy in this situ!

I'll check the sub in my frankenstein F355 single but I'm 99% sure it was a worker. I need to start ruling stuff out but don't want to break anything in the process. I was going to try changing the jumpers to match my 4.1 OutRun2SP setup but if you know the jumpers on the current settings work then it can't be that.

I have go another DSB2 to try so that should solve the missing sound from the front right speaker although I think I'll resist installing it just yet as I'm paranoid I'll blow something while attempting to fix the sub-woofer! I know you had a large pile of scrap parts mount up while you were getting to grips with it and I don't want to add to it!!

 

[Vamino]

No worries mate.

You mean this white box?

It's a trip switch, I may be wrong but I wouldn't have thought that would cause issues.

If you want to make it truly bulletproof, using the step down/Naomi PSU etc from a later UK cab would probably be the way to go. Like I said I didn't have any issues with it tripping the consumer unit so left it as is.......The only time I tripped out the consumer unit was when I plugged 240v straight into the isolation transformer on the 1st half of the cab which is still at Paul's house. I was winging it then and didn't know any better until Craig set me straight.

I'll definitely be upgrading the PSU's to a Naomi ones on my twin at some point, I'll be watching your progress upgrading the PSU to get some hints.

When I originally bought it from the OP, a large number of parts were faulty in some way, hence the mountain of parts at the end! It seemed like it could have been a donor cab or something, as there just seemed to be too many faulty parts if you know what I mean.

The jumpers were fine as far as I can remember, I'll ask Paul to take a pic of the jumpers on the amp on the cab at his place just to verify. I know the sub works on that cab.

Cheers.
Vamino2015-04-21 13:26:33

 

[Vamino]

Just seen this picture from the amp Paul sold recently:

It looks like I gave you false info!

I've also asked Paul to take a pic so hopefully he should post one soon.

Cheers.