DE Star Wars leg bracket other advice please?

Purity

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Hope some of you guys can help out a pinball noob with a few questions:

Q1)I've managed to remove two of the leg brackets so far from my Data East Star Wars as the threads are knackered. I bought some new universal leg brackets from PinballHeaven who assured me that these were suitable for this pin.

So I've attempted to fit the new brackets and they don't fit, nor do they have the three holes to secure the bracket properly to the cabinet like the originals. You can see the difference in the brackets below.

Bracket1.jpg


Bracket2.jpg


Bracket3.jpg


So where do I get some suitable ones from?

Q2) I have found a number of loose wires/connectors under the playfield. Can anyone tell me where they go, or why they might be disconnected?

Wires.jpg


Q3) The plastic on this coil is broken, and the connection is broken. Can I just solder this back, or should I replace the entire coil? I think this is the slingshot coil 23-800?

If I should replace the coil how do I take the old one off?

Coil1.jpg


Coil2.jpg


Thanks for your help
 

Big Phil

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Those brackets should fit. I just replaced mine. Put the leg bolts in and tighten them up. Then put the small screw in.

Regarding the coil, just re-solder and test to see if it still works.
 

forcefulfil

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+1
so long as the bolt centeres are the same,then thats all that matters,if your really arsed u could always drill 2 more holes in the bracket

but once the legs are bolted in there gonna be solid
 

Purity

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Thanks guys. The bracket collars are slightly bigger than the holes and don't fit, however someone has advised me to just turn them around so the flat side is towards the cab (woodwork) and the collars are towards the inside. The bolts should hold them steady and the single hole is just to stop the plate moving when removing the leg

Sound like good advice?
Purity2013-11-03 17:57:05
 

Alpha1

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Purity said:
Thanks guys. The bracket collars are slightly bigger than the holes and don't fit, however someone has advised me to just turn them around so the flat side is towards the cab and the collars are towards the inside. The bolts should hold them steady and the single hole is just to stop the plate moving when removing the leg

Sound like good advice?

Yes

Collars pointng away from the woodwork.
 

taito6581

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I'd replace that coil. with the mechanics moving its going to crack more and suddenly you could find yourself with a loose copper wire that holds about 50v wobbling inside the cabinet.

Coils can be replaced by de-soldering both connections (be sure to note down which one went where, use the diode on the coil as a guide) and unscrewing the assembly. The metal rod inside the coil should slide out so you dont have to disassemble your entire slingshot.

One of the cabinet wires seems to be for the shaker motor (bottom one). Middle could be for an extra tilt sensor (optional, and admittingly guessing). No idea on the top one.
 

pooman2084

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Most of my pins have unconnected wires, even the newer Sterns. If everything checks out in the switch test, I wouldn't worry about it Ben.

I'd be tempted to change that coil, or at least put some tape around it to stop it coming off and shorting.
 

Purity

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Cheers Lloyd. I will do a temporary repair on the coil, with a view to replacing it as soon as possible

I'm certain the cables on the left are unused. But not so sure about that brown wire on the right. I will trace it to see where it goes. There has been some hacking of the cables around this area. I can see some tape and chocblocks have been used
smiley5.gif
. No idea why though
 

guddler

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I think those disconnected cables are for a shaker motor. A lot of games have those wires yet the game has no support for a motor so they just lie in the cab disconnected. As far as the brown wire goes, if everything works as expected, leave it (maybe tape it up).

I once made the mistake of trying to undo what looked like a bodge only to see a very big blue flash so I put the "bodge" back in. While these things are often done badly, they're usually done for a reason!
 

pooman2084

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If it is any consolation, I had Andy 'The Legend' Netherwood come and check the electronics over before I sold it to you. He redid some of the molex connectors in the back box as some numpty had soldered the GI straight to the male pins and the GI was flickering. This also fixed an intermittant kick back issue I was having with it.

I may have a couple of DE connectors in my tool box that I got with the pin, but I don't think I need them, I'll check later.

Like Martin said though, sometimes it's best to leave a previous repair if it doesn't look like it will cause other issues.
 

Purity

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Yes, I agree, I wasn't going to unravel what someone else had done, I was merely trying to understand what the loose wires had done, or were connected too.

I intend to fix the leg brackets, get the legs on, sort the coil, and a couple of other playfield issues, and then power on and run through the tests to see if everything is ok
 

pooman2084

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I really miss my SW.

The sound / dots package hits just the right balance between faithfulness and cheese. People complain about the sound, but I think it is all kinds of awesome, especially the AT AT mode.

Have you got the new balanced ROM for it? I've not tried it, but hear it is a real improvement. You get a proper ball save too.
 

Purity

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pooman2084 said:
I really miss my SW.

The sound / dots package hits just the right balance between faithfulness and cheese. People complain about the sound, but I think it is all kinds of awesome, especially the AT AT mode.

Have you got the new balanced ROM for it? I've not tried it, but hear it is a real improvement. You get a proper ball save too.

I have to sell it in March due to no space. Really don't want too but it will have to go
Purity2013-11-08 12:05:01
 

Alpha1

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Shame the 25th anniversary roms didn't update code to include shaker logic! That would have been supa awesomz
Alpha12013-11-08 13:50:23
 
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