DIY cabinet tips

[Robbiedog]

Hi all,

New member here, apologies if this has been done to death (I couldn't see a thread covering it and this seems like the right place to create one) but I was wondering if any of the long term builders here have an good tips for someone who is starting cabinet builds.

For example I like to save a template for each cabinet I build, I realised it's a lot easier to make a template out of 9mm MDF (to cut and sand) and then router cut 18mm panels from it.

I only need the template for the front profile of the cabinet, so not too wasteful.

Also I was wondering how to mount the sensor for my marquee light, but co-incidentally was watching a video on youtube and realised the sensor can go behind the marquee artwork (and the remote will work through the artwork). Slightly embarrassing as I was planning on punching a hole in my artwork (or drilling a hole for it next to the speakers).

This got me thinking about all the other obvious things I haven't thought of.

 

[ShinraArcade]

Sensor? I assume this is an energy saving idea so that the light goes off when your not near the machine? If so I didn't realise people were doing this.

In fact from my point of view you want the Marquee light to stay on so that you can see it from a distance if your playing a game then your not looking at the marquee..

 

[ShinraArcade]

Do you make many cabs then?

When I wanted to make a couple of identical cabs I used a template from some plain wallpaper then just stencilled around it.

Maybe you could upload pictures of your cabs here:

http://www.ukvac.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=373307&PID=1116353&title=home-made-mame-cabs#1116353

 

[Robbiedog]

Sensor, I use the LED strip (£2 from EBAY) in the marquee, it's just the sensor for the remote (a little IR receiver on the USB lead).

I'm on my 4th cabinet, first was a full size Robotron style cabinet, then a half sized Nintendo, a bartop and currently just screwing together a Daytona (ish) cabinet, PS3 based with force feedback. I should put the prototype up on the wall of shame thread (off cuts of wood and clamps whilst I got all the heights and distances right).

The reason for the template was mainly that I thought I would screw something up making the first cabinet, so wanted the template for the second time around.

Then I saw some videos about "small change arcades" (an American company that remakes original arcade cabs into half size cabs), after seeing that I wanted to make a half sized Nintendo cab, and did a template for that (as I could see me making a few of them with different control types), now I've just got in the habit of it I guess.

I'll post some pictures later, lol they're not a patch on some of the builds you guys do (plus I'm still working on the artwork).

 

[ShinraArcade]

Ahh I see, when I read sensor I immediately thought it was a PIR. Do you need to turn the lights on and off or just personal preference. I prefer to just wire them to come go on and off with the cab power.

Yeah seen some really polished cabs, obviously got some perfectionists on here! Personally I scrimp way to much to achieve anything close.

 

[Robbiedog]

I have a question about T molding, I use a short piece with the barbs cut off to make sure my 19mm t molding is central on my 18mm board (the proof really is in how it feels under your fingers I find). Fit's nicely into the slot and goes in and out easily.

But I was watching a YouTube video and they recommend a plastic shaving tool, after they fitting the t molding they shaved down the edge, this seemed a bit odd to me.

Does anyone else trim their edges?

 

[urbanledge]

I shaved down Nintendo flat tmold once.
Tmold was imperial and my ply was metric so the tmold was a little over each side(.5mm)?

But as you said it felt bad under the hand.

I set up a jig with my router and shaved a mm off the tmold (before its fitted to the cabinet).

Then I cut my tmold track off center by a mm so it fit on 100% perfect.

Took time but I felt it was worth it.

The trimmer would have been easier .