Recently finished getting Indy 500 up and running in my upright SR cab, it’s a pretty easy process but I thought I would document it here for future reference and in case anyone else is thinking of attempting a similar conversion.
I’m really pleased with this as it doesn’t require any cutting of the wiring of the cab and all that’s needed to switch back to SR is removing one adapter and swapping out the stack, so pretty much plug and play.
Of the many different Sega driving cabs available, the white SR uprights are probably the easiest M2 cabs to convert to different games, for the two following reasons….
These cabs (unlike the black uprights, which are all converted Daytona’s) lack force feedback.
They also feature the up/down shifter, rather than the 3 micro switch 4 speed, however with SR being designed for a 4 speed, they include a little PCB to emulate the three outputs of the 4-speed shifter. This is rather handy, as by using the little PCB you can play 4 speed games or by bypassing the PCB you can play up/down shifter games.
Wiring up the 2B stack….
This process isn’t too troublesome, however there may not be enough length on the RGB Cable to reach, on the 2A the RGB connector is on the right-hand side but on the, 2b it has been moved to the left, an adapter is easy enough to knock up, an extra 10-15cm would provide plenty of length to reach.
Part Numbers…
B5P-SHF-1AA (straight header)
H5P-SHF-AA (female Connector)
SHF-001T-0.8BS (contacts)
The connectors on the 2a and 2b filter board are largely the same although the numbering has changed. This is the way I wired mine, although on the 2a there are three power connectors and on the 2b there is only 2 so just use the ones that reach the easiest and leave the other one unplugged. Probably good practice to wrap a little bit of insulation tape around the unused one.
2A CN1>>>>>2B CN11
2A CN2>>>>>2B CN8 (11pin on 2A ---- 9pin on 2B)
2A CN3>>>>>2B CN9
2A CN8>>>>>2B CN6
2A CN10>>>>>2B CN13
2A CN11>>>>>2B (Unused)
2A CN12>>>>>2B (unused)
2A CN7>>>>>2B CN3
2A CN13>>>>>2B CN5
2A CN14>>>>>2B CN12
I have added wiring colours to this diagram (borrowed from solid-orange) to help explain where everything goes.
The power output connector on the 2b filter board is only nine pin but the connector in the cab is 11 pin, I had brought a connector to make up an adapter but had to use it for something else, so just plugged in the connector so the ground cables were making contact, the 5v connections are overhanging but there only for the light up buttons so not too important.
Filter board strangeness….
Depending which filter board you have, some of the connections might not be wired up, on the one I had the steering and the accelerator were wired however the brake was not, the filter board was missing the little resistor, I pinched one from a spare filter board, if you have any inputs not working its worth double checking this, I was rooting around with a multi meter for ages until I noticed there was no resistor thingy in place.
In the right gear…..
As I mentioned above this cab has a rather strange setup where it uses a little PCB to emulate the outputs usually found in the 4 speed shifter cabs, it converts the input from a standard 2 micro switch up/down sequential shifter into three outputs expected by SR, to connect a sequential game the little PCB must be disconnected, and the cables coming from the shifter must be directly connected to the cables going to the filter board.
I made a little connector using one of these (I don’t think the connector is actually JST but this seemed to fit just fine.
BE11P-SHF-1AA
Converter PCB and my little adapter shown in the photo.
And that’s pretty much it, and I’m chuffed how it turned out, and so far, I’m loving being able to play Indy, it’s a very good game in its own right, and with 2b mainboards being pretty cheap it’s a game worth getting if you have a model 2 driving cab, and thanks again to channel27 for sending me the rom board.
With regards to other Model 2 cabs and this conversion, (please correct me If I make any errors here) this conversion would also be straightforward on Touring cars, perhaps even easier as the 2b and 2c share the same filter board pinouts.
For sit down SR’s the FFB will be a problem, and without changing lots of stuff I don’t think its possible, so if anyone does consider installing Indy in a sit down, its going to be missing FFB, and the 4 way shifter will also cause problems, I don’t know enough about the 4 way shifter to advise what would happen if you have one of those, but if your happy with automatic and no FFB its worth doing.
I’m really pleased with this as it doesn’t require any cutting of the wiring of the cab and all that’s needed to switch back to SR is removing one adapter and swapping out the stack, so pretty much plug and play.
Of the many different Sega driving cabs available, the white SR uprights are probably the easiest M2 cabs to convert to different games, for the two following reasons….
These cabs (unlike the black uprights, which are all converted Daytona’s) lack force feedback.
They also feature the up/down shifter, rather than the 3 micro switch 4 speed, however with SR being designed for a 4 speed, they include a little PCB to emulate the three outputs of the 4-speed shifter. This is rather handy, as by using the little PCB you can play 4 speed games or by bypassing the PCB you can play up/down shifter games.
Wiring up the 2B stack….
This process isn’t too troublesome, however there may not be enough length on the RGB Cable to reach, on the 2A the RGB connector is on the right-hand side but on the, 2b it has been moved to the left, an adapter is easy enough to knock up, an extra 10-15cm would provide plenty of length to reach.
Part Numbers…
B5P-SHF-1AA (straight header)
H5P-SHF-AA (female Connector)
SHF-001T-0.8BS (contacts)
The connectors on the 2a and 2b filter board are largely the same although the numbering has changed. This is the way I wired mine, although on the 2a there are three power connectors and on the 2b there is only 2 so just use the ones that reach the easiest and leave the other one unplugged. Probably good practice to wrap a little bit of insulation tape around the unused one.
2A CN1>>>>>2B CN11
2A CN2>>>>>2B CN8 (11pin on 2A ---- 9pin on 2B)
2A CN3>>>>>2B CN9
2A CN8>>>>>2B CN6
2A CN10>>>>>2B CN13
2A CN11>>>>>2B (Unused)
2A CN12>>>>>2B (unused)
2A CN7>>>>>2B CN3
2A CN13>>>>>2B CN5
2A CN14>>>>>2B CN12
I have added wiring colours to this diagram (borrowed from solid-orange) to help explain where everything goes.
The power output connector on the 2b filter board is only nine pin but the connector in the cab is 11 pin, I had brought a connector to make up an adapter but had to use it for something else, so just plugged in the connector so the ground cables were making contact, the 5v connections are overhanging but there only for the light up buttons so not too important.
Filter board strangeness….
Depending which filter board you have, some of the connections might not be wired up, on the one I had the steering and the accelerator were wired however the brake was not, the filter board was missing the little resistor, I pinched one from a spare filter board, if you have any inputs not working its worth double checking this, I was rooting around with a multi meter for ages until I noticed there was no resistor thingy in place.
In the right gear…..
As I mentioned above this cab has a rather strange setup where it uses a little PCB to emulate the outputs usually found in the 4 speed shifter cabs, it converts the input from a standard 2 micro switch up/down sequential shifter into three outputs expected by SR, to connect a sequential game the little PCB must be disconnected, and the cables coming from the shifter must be directly connected to the cables going to the filter board.
I made a little connector using one of these (I don’t think the connector is actually JST but this seemed to fit just fine.
BE11P-SHF-1AA
Converter PCB and my little adapter shown in the photo.
And that’s pretty much it, and I’m chuffed how it turned out, and so far, I’m loving being able to play Indy, it’s a very good game in its own right, and with 2b mainboards being pretty cheap it’s a game worth getting if you have a model 2 driving cab, and thanks again to channel27 for sending me the rom board.
With regards to other Model 2 cabs and this conversion, (please correct me If I make any errors here) this conversion would also be straightforward on Touring cars, perhaps even easier as the 2b and 2c share the same filter board pinouts.
For sit down SR’s the FFB will be a problem, and without changing lots of stuff I don’t think its possible, so if anyone does consider installing Indy in a sit down, its going to be missing FFB, and the 4 way shifter will also cause problems, I don’t know enough about the 4 way shifter to advise what would happen if you have one of those, but if your happy with automatic and no FFB its worth doing.
