AaronBoone
Active member
ActRaiser said:I just want it running.. it's my new toy so I'm not too fussed about the wiring.. as long as I can play Mr Do and Bomb Jack in my music studio I don't care
Isn't the cab on Gumtree and eBay?
JAMMA conversion (60-in-1) help required (please)
- Thread starter ActRaiser
- Start date
Isn't the cab on Gumtree and eBay?
ActRaiser said:I had a bootleg Bomb Jack PCB in there.. a very knowledgable guy bought a cab off me and sent me the link to that loom after I asked him how to install a 60-in-1 board.. the wiring is fine but the connector on the end is a horrible butched plastic thing with solder all over it.. I didn't think simply taking this off and wiring it to a jamma adapter was an option(?) As I've taken all the wiring out (except for the soldered joystick wires) I think i'm too far into the new JAMMA loom installation to turn back.. I just want it running.. it's my new toy so I'm not too fussed about the wiring.. as long as I can play Mr Do and Bomb Jack in my music studio I don't care
For future info, taking off the adaptor and re-wiring to JAMMA is an option and a much better one. It would have been much cheaper (A decent JAMMA connector is about £2-£3), better quality (both wiring and connector) and MUCH easier as you would have only needed to solder a few wires at one end.
It was, but I took it down.. once I made the decision to keep it and convert it to a 60-in-1.. well, when I started ripping all the wiring out in actual fact, haha.
Same with the Time Crisis cab.. I bought it and cleaned it up and hoped to get it working, but I don't really know what I am doing and it's time consuming when I should really be doing work. So I am trying to sell it.. and I want to make a little bit of money on it due to the time and effort spent lugging it to my house and cleaning it from top to bottom.
Same with the Time Crisis cab.. I bought it and cleaned it up and hoped to get it working, but I don't really know what I am doing and it's time consuming when I should really be doing work. So I am trying to sell it.. and I want to make a little bit of money on it due to the time and effort spent lugging it to my house and cleaning it from top to bottom.
Us lot of experienced arcade nerds would definitely do that, buy Rob is very new to this.
Rewiring a bodged bombjack back to a jamma edge connecter wouldve a daunting task for him, so I suggested getting a pre made one. They work, even though the power wires aren't very substantial. He could always swap them out if need be.
Rewiring a bodged bombjack back to a jamma edge connecter wouldve a daunting task for him, so I suggested getting a pre made one. They work, even though the power wires aren't very substantial. He could always swap them out if need be.
Another benefit to just changing the micro switches is nice new fresh connections...
Imagine cutting/desoldering/or whatever method of poison only to find the switches are either sluggish, sticky or faulty...
While you are at it, just change the buttons to whatever flavour of colour you desire...
What £25 for the lot roughly for a much much smarter sexier looking project..
It really is a novice job if you take your time.....
Doddle.
"only saying, just my tuppence worth
"
Imagine cutting/desoldering/or whatever method of poison only to find the switches are either sluggish, sticky or faulty...
While you are at it, just change the buttons to whatever flavour of colour you desire...
What £25 for the lot roughly for a much much smarter sexier looking project..
It really is a novice job if you take your time.....
Doddle.
"only saying, just my tuppence worth
Agreed, however, de-soldering and cleaning all those spade terminals is not an easy job. (i once used a crap non-adjustable soldering iron I bought from maplins in the 80's for about £3 and melted the internal microswitchesvirtvic said:
If it was me, at this stage, I would still get a better loom due to the soldered switches (mo had some lovely JAMMA looms from Electrocoin digital fruit machines but think they are all gone now) and solder and heatshrink to current loom. But for ease for a noob, replacing the microswitches as mentioned above would be the easiest way.
I've managed to desolder all the microswitches.. and have removed all the original wiring.. however, I have discovered a problem (?)
I have wired up the power fine and next step is the monitor.. however, the plug that goes on the monitor board is not the same as the one on my new loom.. the previous one has six holes and there are six pins on the board.. one is not used though.. The new loom plug has the same coloured wires in there, but it's only 5 holes. here's a photo to make it easier
Can I just connect this? and I have already forgotten which way round it went.. is there a way of knowing?
This is the board where it has to go :
thanks
ActRaiser2017-09-07 15:06:10
I have wired up the power fine and next step is the monitor.. however, the plug that goes on the monitor board is not the same as the one on my new loom.. the previous one has six holes and there are six pins on the board.. one is not used though.. The new loom plug has the same coloured wires in there, but it's only 5 holes. here's a photo to make it easier
Can I just connect this? and I have already forgotten which way round it went.. is there a way of knowing?
This is the board where it has to go :
thanks
ActRaiser2017-09-07 15:06:10
I had exactly the same issue recently with the same monitor. You will hit another issues in that the pins sizes are a slightly different as well (and from memory also the spacing).
Only a very small amount of voltage going through that cable, so you will need to cut the wires on each and connect them. If you can't solder to the JAMMA loom, then just do very tight wist in single line (so it looks like a single wire and heatshrink them together very tightly. Then pull on both wires to make sure they are properly connected.
Only a very small amount of voltage going through that cable, so you will need to cut the wires on each and connect them. If you can't solder to the JAMMA loom, then just do very tight wist in single line (so it looks like a single wire and heatshrink them together very tightly. Then pull on both wires to make sure they are properly connected.
Ah.. this is turning out to be a bit of a nightmare and I am really starting to regret starting this project.
What do you mean by the pins sizes are slightly different?
So I need to cut off the plastic plug bit (as shown in my photo above) and then solder the wires to each pin on that monitor board? That sounds like a total nightmare. I don't even know what a wrist is .. I didn't understand any of that part I'm afraid
Is there any chance you can explain in simpler terms or, better yet, show me a photo or link me to a guide or video please?
What do you mean by the pins sizes are slightly different?
So I need to cut off the plastic plug bit (as shown in my photo above) and then solder the wires to each pin on that monitor board? That sounds like a total nightmare.
I don't even know what a wrist is .. I didn't understand any of that part I'm afraidIs there any chance you can explain in simpler terms or, better yet, show me a photo or link me to a guide or video please?
OK - this is the easy bit (you have done the hard bit) get yourself some heatshrink tube from maplin or amazon (small size) only cost £1 or so.
Then cut wires from both connectors and strip them then connect like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVwdwdifCTs
(just the first youtube I came across, not the best vid, but you get the idea - imagine the led he is using is another wire).
simonden2017-09-07 15:30:46
Then cut wires from both connectors and strip them then connect like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVwdwdifCTs
(just the first youtube I came across, not the best vid, but you get the idea - imagine the led he is using is another wire).
simonden2017-09-07 15:30:46
Ok, that doesn't look so bad..
I just pulled one of the wires out of the original plastic plug.. it popped out and has a tiny metal housing around the end.. it goes back in ok too.. Can I just pop them all out then do the same on the new JAMMA plug and put them into the old casing where the corresponding colours go? I assume the blue and white striped one is where the black would go (see my photos)?
I just pulled one of the wires out of the original plastic plug.. it popped out and has a tiny metal housing around the end.. it goes back in ok too.. Can I just pop them all out then do the same on the new JAMMA plug and put them into the old casing where the corresponding colours go? I assume the blue and white striped one is where the black would go (see my photos)?
Ok, that doesn't look so bad..
I just pulled one of the wires out of the original plastic plug.. it popped out and has a tiny metal housing around the end.. it goes back in ok too.. Can I just pop them all out then do the same on the new JAMMA plug and put them into the old casing where the corresponding colours go? I assume the blue and white striped one is where the black would go (see my photos)?
Would you also mind confirming which way around the plug goes into the board, using my photo as reference.. i.e. is TH1 where the red goes or white?
I just pulled one of the wires out of the original plastic plug.. it popped out and has a tiny metal housing around the end.. it goes back in ok too.. Can I just pop them all out then do the same on the new JAMMA plug and put them into the old casing where the corresponding colours go? I assume the blue and white striped one is where the black would go (see my photos)?
Would you also mind confirming which way around the plug goes into the board, using my photo as reference.. i.e. is TH1 where the red goes or white?
As your new connector won't fit so you can either desolder your old and new monitor wires from their Jamma connectors and solder the old ones onto the new Jamma one, or cut both monitor plugs off and graft the old plug to the new wires, strip and twist them tightly in line and heat shrink them. No need to solder wires to the monitor chassis pins.
Desoldering from a new Jamma loom can be a pain because of the heatshrink, if you get really stuck or don't want to solder, use a terminal screw block, dead easy
Desoldering from a new Jamma loom can be a pain because of the heatshrink, if you get really stuck or don't want to solder, use a terminal screw block, dead easy
Hey guys.
So.. I've wired up everything.. just finish the joysticks - that was a real chore! phew!
I've got loads of wires left over.. Coin1 Coin2, Service switch, Test Switch.. They don't correspond to the coloured wires that were hooked up to the board inside the front door.. so I have no idea where to put them.. do I need them at all? If not, can I just cover them in tape and leave them inside the cab or must I cut them off the loom?
Likewise, there seems to be a small handful in a bundle with a black long plastic connector on them (see photo below). what's this for?
Nearly there.. haven't eaten all day.. haha!
SO if you guys could help me with these last few things I feel like I can get it done very soon..
thanks
So.. I've wired up everything.. just finish the joysticks - that was a real chore! phew!
I've got loads of wires left over.. Coin1 Coin2, Service switch, Test Switch.. They don't correspond to the coloured wires that were hooked up to the board inside the front door.. so I have no idea where to put them.. do I need them at all? If not, can I just cover them in tape and leave them inside the cab or must I cut them off the loom?
Likewise, there seems to be a small handful in a bundle with a black long plastic connector on them (see photo below). what's this for?
Nearly there.. haven't eaten all day.. haha!
SO if you guys could help me with these last few things I feel like I can get it done very soon..
thanks