So after reading a few threads like the following:
http://www.gamoover.net/Forums/index.php?topic=22819.0
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=105186.0
(both same op)
I though I would like to have a go.
there is an old cab kicking about thats done nothing for years and has no monitor or game boards. A crt tv and a computer later we should have a working MAME for the kids.
I gave them a working logitech ex for a week to see how strong it would be and how long it would last if mounted directly to the shelf so that I did not need to hack it. The steering wheel started working loose after a couple of days and eventually ripped out the threads. Not good. maybe solid mounting the unit allows greater lateral pressure on the connecting shaft?
So I sourced a HAPP non ffb steering mech with 5k pot and set about hacking the boards.
I followed closely what others have done but found that I was getting intermittent button press results. Mainly the directions and the four action buttons. The start,Select, L3/R3 buttons etc were 100% fine.
I was only getting about a 70% button press success rate.
Should have checked the buttons fully before starting. Dammit! so hit ebay and bought another wheel.
Done exactly the same process and again I was still only getting about a 70% button press success rate. I changed the wire type and thickness several times to see if this would help.... Nothing changed.
I am using the logitech software and test programmes downloaded from this site here:
http://www.logitech.com/en-gb/support
I then looked at the black pressure pads. They are different from the select and start buttons on the bottom board. (the ones that have a 100% success rate)
Hmmmmm, Is there something in the circuit that reads the resistance of the button press/force? Thus allowing varying levels of function in games? like the harder you press a button the faster you accelerate for instance?
I scraped off the black resistance pads from between the copper contact pads to see if this would stop any current bleed over and re soldered the wires, And..... Nowt- still the same
Now this is where I admit to being far from an expert with this sort of this sort of thing. I needed to somehow bypass the diodes and resistors mounted on the boards but the circuits look complicated.
So I just cut them off
This left me eight wires on each side. Two of wich are the 24v diode feed and returns. Just six wires on each side for all of the functions
Trial and error old skool time! I soon had me finding a common earth for four functions and a common for the other two functions on each side. then The rest is feeds to complete circuits.
Blue tape is not permanent
I have used a glue gun to seal the boards away from damp as it will be in the garage and also to help secure the wires in place once soldered (bottom board).
Time for a test....
100% for the start select buttons ect from the bottom hacked boards and 90% from all of the functions on each side boards. Success?!?!
This leaves me wondering what the other builders and hackers of these systems have done to overcome this issue or have they just kept quiet and doubted their soldering skills? I have had this with two wheels now and the second I fully tested before hacking and it worked perfectly!
Anyway I have little or no skill with this kind of thing but I hope this thread can help others with the same issue?
Pictures of the cab will be uploaded once all buttoned up and finished.
Deathrow2012-09-25 21:36:43
http://www.gamoover.net/Forums/index.php?topic=22819.0
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=105186.0
(both same op)
I though I would like to have a go.
there is an old cab kicking about thats done nothing for years and has no monitor or game boards. A crt tv and a computer later we should have a working MAME for the kids.
I gave them a working logitech ex for a week to see how strong it would be and how long it would last if mounted directly to the shelf so that I did not need to hack it. The steering wheel started working loose after a couple of days and eventually ripped out the threads. Not good. maybe solid mounting the unit allows greater lateral pressure on the connecting shaft?
So I sourced a HAPP non ffb steering mech with 5k pot and set about hacking the boards.
I followed closely what others have done but found that I was getting intermittent button press results. Mainly the directions and the four action buttons. The start,Select, L3/R3 buttons etc were 100% fine.
I was only getting about a 70% button press success rate.
Should have checked the buttons fully before starting. Dammit! so hit ebay and bought another wheel.
Done exactly the same process and again I was still only getting about a 70% button press success rate. I changed the wire type and thickness several times to see if this would help.... Nothing changed.
I am using the logitech software and test programmes downloaded from this site here:
http://www.logitech.com/en-gb/support
I then looked at the black pressure pads. They are different from the select and start buttons on the bottom board. (the ones that have a 100% success rate)
Hmmmmm, Is there something in the circuit that reads the resistance of the button press/force? Thus allowing varying levels of function in games? like the harder you press a button the faster you accelerate for instance?
I scraped off the black resistance pads from between the copper contact pads to see if this would stop any current bleed over and re soldered the wires, And..... Nowt- still the same
Now this is where I admit to being far from an expert with this sort of this sort of thing. I needed to somehow bypass the diodes and resistors mounted on the boards but the circuits look complicated.
So I just cut them off
This left me eight wires on each side. Two of wich are the 24v diode feed and returns. Just six wires on each side for all of the functions
Trial and error old skool time! I soon had me finding a common earth for four functions and a common for the other two functions on each side. then The rest is feeds to complete circuits.
Blue tape is not permanent
I have used a glue gun to seal the boards away from damp as it will be in the garage and also to help secure the wires in place once soldered (bottom board).
Time for a test....
100% for the start select buttons ect from the bottom hacked boards and 90% from all of the functions on each side boards. Success?!?!
This leaves me wondering what the other builders and hackers of these systems have done to overcome this issue or have they just kept quiet and doubted their soldering skills? I have had this with two wheels now and the second I fully tested before hacking and it worked perfectly!
Anyway I have little or no skill with this kind of thing but I hope this thread can help others with the same issue?
Pictures of the cab will be uploaded once all buttoned up and finished.
Deathrow2012-09-25 21:36:43
