Missile Command
- Thread starter PAC-MAN
- Start date
When I got a monitor for Shaun (river9999uk) to put in his one I put a Kortek in an original Electrohome (or possibly WG) frame (with a slight adaption to hold the chassis) and it worked great!PAC-MAN said:Nice one!
I have another WG to stick in it if it goes mental!
tb20002014-08-14 14:30:35
forcefulfil
EDOT King
Gawwwjussssssssssss!
good to see the resto king bak in action! forcefulfil2014-08-14 16:04:57
good to see the resto king bak in action! forcefulfil2014-08-14 16:04:57
Nice restoration Al, impeccable as usual.
Sweet job Al
Mint fresh
Look forward to having a go next week if it's up and running
Mint fresh
Look forward to having a go next week if it's up and running
Al if you get 5 minutes, could you cover in more detail how you dealt with this situation?
I'm working on a cab with very similar problems, and think I know what I should be doing (you described it as "filling and sanding"), but it would be really useful to understand how you repair corners like these?
I'd like to know if you can work with the basic shape and what's there (brushing and sanding off the worst of it then filled), or whether they just need to be hacked right off and effectively rebuilt with filler and new t molding groove made.
Cheers
T
I'm working on a cab with very similar problems, and think I know what I should be doing (you described it as "filling and sanding"), but it would be really useful to understand how you repair corners like these?
I'd like to know if you can work with the basic shape and what's there (brushing and sanding off the worst of it then filled), or whether they just need to be hacked right off and effectively rebuilt with filler and new t molding groove made.
Cheers
T
Obviously Al is the expert on these things, and I'm sure he will give you the answers you need, but if it was me, I'd remove any really loose bits, and then cover the area in a wood hardener.
Then fill in that whole area with filler and reshape and sand down until it was flush. Then cut a new t-moulding groove.
Hope that helps?
Purity2014-08-22 20:19:55
Then fill in that whole area with filler and reshape and sand down until it was flush. Then cut a new t-moulding groove.
Hope that helps?
Purity2014-08-22 20:19:55
aeroflott said:Al if you get 5 minutes, could you cover in more detail how you dealt with this situation?
I'm working on a cab with very similar problems, and think I know what I should be doing (you described it as "filling and sanding"), but it would be really useful to understand how you repair corners like these?
I'd like to know if you can work with the basic shape and what's there (brushing and sanding off the worst of it then filled), or whether they just need to be hacked right off and effectively rebuilt with filler and new t molding groove made.
Cheers
T
Here's one I made earlier
Hey Tony,
I used a drill with a 6mm drill bit and took out off the really knackered, rotten timber, hovered away the loose and then I applied wood hardener. Then I think I used Sikaflex (I nearly used fibreglass matting and resin but I think the remaining void was too tight) which is a strong/flexible marine adhesive/sealant/filler used in the same manner as a silicone cartridge and gun and squeezed the stuff up into the remaining void leaving about 5mm to the bottom of each rotten side which then enabled me to fill the rest and finish using P38. Although it was rotten it hadn't lost it's shape. Once the corners were sanded flush and reshaped I used a standard Jack saw to cut the T-molding slot.
Cheers, Al
Edit -Try not to use two part filler to completely build up any corners and if you do have to try and do it in 3,4,5,6 stages as if you do it in one it will be weak and if it takes a knock.....will probably snap the joint and will be held in by the T-molding. The other option is to use dowels with a newly cut corner like Jon did if the corner has come away or messy.
PAC-MAN2014-08-22 22:40:57
I used a drill with a 6mm drill bit and took out off the really knackered, rotten timber, hovered away the loose and then I applied wood hardener. Then I think I used Sikaflex (I nearly used fibreglass matting and resin but I think the remaining void was too tight) which is a strong/flexible marine adhesive/sealant/filler used in the same manner as a silicone cartridge and gun and squeezed the stuff up into the remaining void leaving about 5mm to the bottom of each rotten side which then enabled me to fill the rest and finish using P38. Although it was rotten it hadn't lost it's shape. Once the corners were sanded flush and reshaped I used a standard Jack saw to cut the T-molding slot.
Cheers, Al
Edit -Try not to use two part filler to completely build up any corners and if you do have to try and do it in 3,4,5,6 stages as if you do it in one it will be weak and if it takes a knock.....will probably snap the joint and will be held in by the T-molding. The other option is to use dowels with a newly cut corner like Jon did if the corner has come away or messy.
PAC-MAN2014-08-22 22:40:57
Thanks for your tech input James
BTW....the D7700 looks absolutely stunning.....the picture is too crisp for words.
Now I have a major problem, after scoring 5,800 I don't want to sell it
Very cool game, I really don't know what to do with it.
BTW....the D7700 looks absolutely stunning.....the picture is too crisp for words.
Now I have a major problem, after scoring 5,800 I don't want to sell it
Very cool game, I really don't know what to do with it.
PAC-MAN said:Thanks for your tech input James
?
BTW....the D7700 looks absolutely stunning.....the picture is too crisp for words.
?
Now I have a major problem, after scoring 5,800 I don't want to sell it
?
Very cool game, I really don't know what to do with it.
Outbuilding time...
