I wonder if anyone has any idea what my missile command problem is , i brought it 6 months ago and the seller said its been stored for aprox 7 years i had the cpu/power and aduio boards tested both were given the thumbs up , but when fire it up i get the monitor and the marque on but no red light on the cpu board checked the fused on the power block( good) but cant seem to find voltage anywhere apart from monitor and marque so the problem is power block not supplying the power supply /sound board im not the best with eletrics but im sure its something simple. Any ideas would be appreciated thanks
missile command
- Thread starter leslie
- Start date
forcefulfil
EDOT King
check the holders too,ive had fuses not making contact correctyl yet metered fine in situe
Im assuming that youve checked the fuses with a multi meter, if not, best to do so as a visual inspection not good enough.
Perhaps, the easiest way to check if the diodes are working is to check that the rectifier board (on which the diodes sit) is outputting the correct voltages. Whilst you're at it you might as well check the other voltages:
You should see the following voltages off the 12 pin molex on the power brick:
Pins 1&2 = 10.3VDC
Pins 4&6 = 25VAC
Pins 4&5 = 12.5VAC
Pins 11&12 = 6.3VAC
Perhaps, the easiest way to check if the diodes are working is to check that the rectifier board (on which the diodes sit) is outputting the correct voltages. Whilst you're at it you might as well check the other voltages:
You should see the following voltages off the 12 pin molex on the power brick:
Pins 1&2 = 10.3VDC
Pins 4&6 = 25VAC
Pins 4&5 = 12.5VAC
Pins 11&12 = 6.3VAC
Well, if fuses all check good, but you're not getting any voltage readings at the molex then either the wiring has been cut in several places under the brick or you have a mostly dead transformer. Neither seems likely, but all things are possible.
Are the coin door lights on?
Are the coin door lights on?
Ok re checking fuses (i put the probes on the ends of the fuses , remove spade connectors and place probes on spades all good ) just a quick thought i have 4 molex connectors for volt conversion white pink and brown i have the brown connected is this correct for 240v (there are no cut burnt or broken wires and the monitor and marque power up ?
well the strange thing is i have the Manuel and it states the voltage selectors as black, orange ,green , red i have brown,pink,white and yellow , (im using brown) ive taken the brick out of the machine but im sure the coin door did not light up
I'm sure the brown plug is correct. The coin door will not work if you remove the Power Brick.
Do you have experience on working on other cabs? Such as Williams, like a Stargate, as point of reference so I can explain easily what does what? These use Linear PSU's too.
Equites2013-06-26 00:23:19
Do you have experience on working on other cabs? Such as Williams, like a Stargate, as point of reference so I can explain easily what does what? These use Linear PSU's too.
Equites2013-06-26 00:23:19
The voltage selection block is USUALLY:
100V Violet (May have faded to pink by now perhaps? - unlikely though)
120V Yellow (May have faded to white by now perhaps? - unlikely though)
220V Blue
240V Brown
With some variation for the different power bricks in different games. If your using brown, then you're using 240V which is correct so leave the voltage selection plug as it is.
I don't have a missile command, I'm 100% going from reading the schematics but basically, if your monitor and marquee are lighting up then the input side of your transformer is fine (as we'd expect).
So, with that in mind, measure the 6.3V. This is AC so make sure the meter is set to an appropriate AC range. According to the schematics, pins 11 & 12 of the molex are, as has already been said the 6.3V for the coin door lights. Ignore whether they're lit up (the bulbs may be blown or missing for all we know!). The schematics show the two wires as "BU" - that could mean blue but without the cab in front of me I couldn't say for sure.
Those two wires come straight from the transformer windings to the molex with nothing in between. No fuses or anything. So measure them again. If you're getting no voltage then sorry, but either the wires are broken or your transformer is! It's rare quite frankly, but I guess it can certainly happen.
Since from what everyone is saying about the colours of the voltage selection plugs, it does sound like it's not the original power brick. But I really couldn't say on that as I don't know all possibilities of what Atari chucked out of their factory back in the day!
100V Violet (May have faded to pink by now perhaps? - unlikely though)
120V Yellow (May have faded to white by now perhaps? - unlikely though)
220V Blue
240V Brown
With some variation for the different power bricks in different games. If your using brown, then you're using 240V which is correct so leave the voltage selection plug as it is.
I don't have a missile command, I'm 100% going from reading the schematics but basically, if your monitor and marquee are lighting up then the input side of your transformer is fine (as we'd expect).
So, with that in mind, measure the 6.3V. This is AC so make sure the meter is set to an appropriate AC range. According to the schematics, pins 11 & 12 of the molex are, as has already been said the 6.3V for the coin door lights. Ignore whether they're lit up (the bulbs may be blown or missing for all we know!). The schematics show the two wires as "BU" - that could mean blue but without the cab in front of me I couldn't say for sure.
Those two wires come straight from the transformer windings to the molex with nothing in between. No fuses or anything. So measure them again. If you're getting no voltage then sorry, but either the wires are broken or your transformer is! It's rare quite frankly, but I guess it can certainly happen.
Since from what everyone is saying about the colours of the voltage selection plugs, it does sound like it's not the original power brick. But I really couldn't say on that as I don't know all possibilities of what Atari chucked out of their factory back in the day!
If you've got the brick out of the cab then you won't get a reading from anything at all. The AC harness needs to be plugged in. You can jumper it, but just stick it back in the cab - plug everything in as it was before. Switch on. Check molex as outlined several posts above.
Ok fellas just a quick up date on the missile command . put brick back in cab to test power noticed that some of the wires on the other transformer had been messed around with. Also i have no connection on pins 11&12 and have no DC volts on pins 1&2 , this is what i do have 1 2 3 4 &5 Ac 2.8 / pin 6=19.7 pin 7 = 14.1 pin 8=3.8 and pin 9=0.5 this leads me to believe the block is from another machine when i look under the molex i see pin 1 2 &3 orange/ 4&5 purple/ 6&7 red 8&9 yellow and 15 gray any thoughts?