Monitor question

John Bennett

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[ukvac] Monitor question
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Hi

I have a hanterex monitor that seems to crackle a lot when it is switched and
for the first 5-10 minutes? Each crackle causes a little bit of interference.

Any ideas?

Ivan

DATA Imported from archives: originally posted by (ivan@rcp.co.uk)
 
d-type

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RE: [ukvac] Monitor question
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*Discharge the tube* (disclaimer: don't blame me if you zap yourself - seek
professional advice), whip the sucker off and give the glass of the tube a
good rub with a dry cloth to get rid of the gunge that's probably letting
your monitor arc out. Clean the sucker also and pop it back on.

D-type

>
 
JCRS

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Re: [ukvac] Monitor question
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You may find its the LOPT depleteting.. Removing dust from around it, and
the UHT can sometimes help...

Be careful though..
 
zepromz

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Re: [ukvac] Monitor question
At 19:27 18/09/00 +0100, jcrs wrote:

>You may find its the LOPT depleteting.. Removing dust from around it, and
>the UHT can sometimes help. Be careful though.

This begs the question: Why exactly are you pouring milk into your monitor
in the first place, and might that have something to do with a dodgy
flyback :)

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zepromz

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RE: [ukvac] Monitor question
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At 20:26 18/09/00 +0100, D-Type wrote:

>BE CAREFUL: Don't drop the foil lid in. That could be very nasty!

Yeah, bad MOOve space calf. Thats what yoghurt if you whey around
with high voltage equipmilk.

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John Bennett

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Re: [ukvac] Monitor question
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In article <3.0.32.20000918200411.0138b680@popmail.dircon.co.uk>, 3prom
<eprom@dircon.co.uk> writes
>>You may find its the LOPT depleteting.. Removing dust from around it, and
>>the UHT can sometimes help. Be careful though.
>
>This begs the question: Why exactly are you pouring milk into your monitor
>in the first place, and might that have something to do with a dodgy
>flyback :)

It's OK, it's ultra heat treated, so it should last for ages. If it
wasn't UHT I would be concerned at the monitor going off. (which the
vector ones seem to do on a regular basis.)

--
Clive Mitchell

DATA Imported from archives: originally posted by Clive Mitchell (clive@emanator.demon.co.uk)
 
P-Man

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Re: [ukvac] monitor question
> When fitting a new chassis to a monitor....
>
> If the HV suction cup does not make an air-tight seal on the tube - would
> that cause the picture to not appear ???
> (I get static from the screen but it looks like it ain't switched on)

Nope, if you get static from the screen then it means the field difference
is up, this is normal. What you want to check is the neck of the tube, you
should see a faint orange glow.. that is the heaters for the guns.. if you
don't see a glow, you won't get a picture.

the rubber cap is not an air seal, it merely shields the anode contacts from
the outside world, avoiding it arcing out like lightnening, or to avoid
stray wires coming in contact etc..

> And if Yes is the answer, I have had a go at trying to get it to fit
tight -
> could I seal around it with silicone as a last resort??

That is a method really only used when you have bad 'creeping' (you will see
blue sparky lightning things 'feeling' their way out from under the cap and
over the glass tube surface) not a very good thing, just make sure the glass
tube isn't dusty, and that the cap makes good contact. No need for silicone.

> I'm asking the obvious I bet - I have a feeling the problem lies
> elsewhere.....

what is the cab/game/whatever doing?

i read you previous posts..

is this the tehkan world cup? if so, i don't think its your monitor. if you
were fooling with DIP switches, i would immediately point the finger at the
board..

if its not the world cup, then ignore me :)

> Cheers all,
>
> Mike

seeya!

Andy



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John Bennett

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Re: [ukvac] monitor question

> is this the tehkan world cup? if so, i don't think its your monitor. if
you
> were fooling with DIP switches, i would immediately point the finger at
the
> board..

.....they remember....

Er, Yup, It's that monitor....

Still no joy with it - You know what's it's like.....finding the
time...waff...waff......

Someone posted me saying he doubted that the dips would effect the
monitor....
..more likely to have been me switching on/off the game too many
times........

I got this (working) Hantex 20" Polo for my PolePosition, which I'm gonna
try in place of the 'duff' monitor.
If it was the pcb....????

I'll no doubt be back with another question............

Cheers anyhow for now!
Mike.



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DATA Imported from archives: originally posted by Mike Stapley (merics@btinternet.com)
 
P-Man

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Re: [ukvac] monitor question
> > were fooling with DIP switches, i would immediately point the finger at
> the
> > board..
>
> .....they remember....
>
> Er, Yup, It's that monitor....
> Someone posted me saying he doubted that the dips would effect the
> monitor....

what did i say? :) Points the finger >to the board< :)

> ..more likely to have been me switching on/off the game too many
> times........

that also...

do the usual checks, power supply, check power is getting to the board,
check interconnect cables on the board.. re-seat the roms if you can..

its got to be a board prob from what you say, just knocking the board by
flicking dips you might have inadvertantly knocked a cap off that affects
power ..

so many things, divert your attention away from the monitor, do basic
checks, did the game actually work beforehand? if it did, try coining it up
and starting a game.. does it? if it doesn't, then you are definately
looking at the board for the cause...

> I got this (working) Hantex 20" Polo for my PolePosition, which I'm gonna
> try in place of the 'duff' monitor.
> If it was the pcb....????

do the game board checks before you do anythgin drastic (well, time
consuming) like that.

> I'll no doubt be back with another question............
>
> Cheers anyhow for now!
> Mike.

seeya

Andy



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Macro

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Re: [ukvac] Monitor question

The only monitor I have had with this problem, and what I suspect is the
usual cause anyway is the heater is gunked up / worn / buggered.

as you go on to mention, the usual fix is to try one of the tube blaster
things - in the case of my one, it decided that my tube was beyond
redemption! (So I got another monitor for the cab)

I suppose it could be a low voltage on the heater, so you could check
that first - normal 24v on Hanty's (from memory), don't know how
standard that is across other makes / models ...

> I was also wandering if a blast on the tube rejunvenator would
> assist, but i don't want to do this is it's not really required.
 
John Bennett

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[ukvac] Re: Monitor question
Try replacing the caps on the tube's base PCB first, then go for the
caps close to the LOPT.

Dave



DATA Imported from archives: originally posted by David Smethurst (david@smethurst75.fsnet.co.uk)
 
A

andrewhannay

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Cheers,
Definitely not the game board, happens to all of them.
Bad fly back? - As in the flyback transformer?
Andrew

>
 
A

andrewhannay

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It's hard to describe.
But if you look at a letter on the screen then it's wobbling all over like
pixel noise.
It only wobbles in one plane (I think)
Andrew

>
 
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Hard to say without seeing it, but it could be;

Grounding problems perhaps

Bad flyback (is the 30W resistor too hot to touch?)

Degaussing problem *cough* unlikely!

Problem with the gameboard? Have you tried a different game with it?

My money is on the flyback&#8230;

Pobster

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A

andrewhannay

Guest
Cheers,
Want to catch this fault before it goes.
Already lost one monitor on another machine tube coils making a sizzling
sound (or round that area).
Andrew

>
 
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Yep, sorry did mean the flyback transformer&#8230; I guess it could also be the
horizontal output transistor on the way out? So many things to check! :eek:)
That&#8217;s not very likely I guess, unless perhaps it&#8217;s ground is dodgy? More
likely it&#8217;d just die than exhibit that behaviour (although anything is
possible I guess&#8230;)

Measure your B+ voltage and see if it&#8217;s 1 &#8211; steady, 2 &#8211; correct&#8230;

Pobster

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