Outrun Arcade Machine Repair

[mlynn]

Hi, many years ago I bought an Outrun Machine from eBay:
http://www.lynn3686.com/outrunrestoration.html

I have always wanted an Outrun machine but for various reasons it has never been repaired properly. I now have time to continue this project and some new parts I have purchased through the years.

The monitor was in storage and has now been returned to my house. The power supplies are 30+ years old and it is missing 2 panels: front and base.

Questions:
1. Monitor and mounting bracket.
The monitor is beyond repair, the board at the back was filthy, the front of the screen had bad burn-in. It has gone to the skip. The monitor was a 110V Nanao.

I have saved the mounting bracket because it had a Sega serial number on it. It was held on with 4 10mm bolts, and the chassis was held on with 2 screws at the back. I thought it best to save the metal mounting bracket because it fits Outrun perfectly and would allow someone else to return it to original stock if they want in the future.

The monitor mounting bracket is filthy, not only with dust and dirt but it seems to be some kind of grease.

Is it safe to clean the mounting bracket with hot soapy water?
Do I have to treat it with any oil or thermal grease before putting it back in the cabinet?

2. Monitor replacement.
I also need a suitable replacement monitor that would be easy to fit, looks good and safe to use.

I really need to buy a new switching transformer for the game boards, and I think a separate LCD monitor is the safest way to go however that might mean a multiplug inside the cabinet. Hopefully a local electrician can do all the electrics for me as I am not qualified to do this.

3. Front Panel replacement
With holes cut for pedals and coin boxes.
I take I should use 18mm Black Melamine Faced Chipboard but the dashboard should fit to this panel on hinges so it can be opened from the front.

4. Base Panel replacement
5. Power supplies
If an LCD monitor is used I would need a GBS8200 video adapter, multiplug and replacement JAMMA power supply for +5V 16A (80W - the shaker needs 48W I think). I really don't want that dangerous looking 110V transformer in the cab.

I'm sorry if these are dumb questions but I really need advice.

 

[Ace`]

You skipped a Nanao monitor and are fitting an LCD? oh the horror. The
picture with an LCD and GBS8200 will look awful, an LCD in general will
look awful and either be 16:9 which is wrong or too small. Where as Nanaos are known to give some of the best image quality out of any arcade monitors, did you at least save the chassis?

If you're set
on using an LCD you might as well fit a pc with mame too.

 

[Flinnster]

Wow all I'd say is after buying NOS parts, please don't kill this by fitting an LCD monitor!

Get a proper CRT in there and do it justice!

You have a fair project there but not impossible. Look at some of the restore threads on here and elsewhere on t'internet and you'll soon find that hot soapy water, multi-surface cleaner and wipes, black paint, vinegar and even coke can be your friends in the right places.

Oh, and CRTs can be repaired too.. but too late for that I guess.

Flinnster2020-02-04 22:54:23

 

[dj_yt]

It's a real shame you skipped the monitor - nanaos are great monitors even with burn-in. They are generally fixable, and there are people on here like gunblade who will service the chassis and so forth.

You're fine to clean all the metal parts with water, degreaser etc.

Unfortunately I can't help you with wiring up an LCD. My restore is here if you want to take a read.

 

[mlynn]

Thanks everyone for the advice. It really is very difficult to get good people to help in Scotland.

The problem with the monitor was it had been in storage for 8 years at my dad's house, and he passed away last month. We had so much stuff to move I simply couldn't store the monitor. I am also very worried about having an open chassis inside the cab. If I can find a suitable monitor and if I local electrician to fit it then I would consider using one, but the control board would have to be clean - the old one was absolutely caked!

 

[John Bennett]

If you can’t get a proper monitor, better off making a CRT TV work than an LCD. Not too hard to do- a bit of rewiring into the SCART.

 

[antray84]

My Outrun has an LCD in.....Its how it came from the seller and why I got it at a price I could afford.

It plays fine and looks ok, but others are right in that Outrun especially looks better on a crt due to it being such a vivid colourful game. Will replace mine when finances allow.

Worth a look around for a CRT at least. Even a VGA CRT is better. New 4.3 lcd monitors are generally gonna be quite pants chinese ones on ebay.

 

[beckscc2010]

In case you dont know this website

http://www.aaldert.com/outrun/power-scart.html beckscc20102020-02-05 06:41:47

 

[John Bennett]

The picture is arguably too good on an LCD. A 15kHz CRT (arcade or TV) obscures the blockiness with scanlines, dot pitch and bloom effects. It’s how it should be and it looks lovely.
There is also no lag with CRT - can’t say that of LCDs (or anything where a cheap converter board is involved, such as a computer CRT).

Handy link for the scart. I’d have put an RGB amplifier in there personally, but maybe overkill on Outrun.John Bennett2020-02-05 08:22:26

 

[Bods]

Sure it was a Nanao Monitor anyway? depends where the cab was made I guess

but you really should of kept it and just left it in the machine if no where else for it

The Power Supply is Atari type. same as whats in my Champ Sprint Cab so I would of thought it was made in Ireland but why does it say 220v, unless it was one shipped to Germany or other EU country

Electrician isn't going to know much about this stuff like we don't know their job fully, so I wouldn't really take any advice from them or get them to do any work, the only part he would know is the plug and mains lead to the Power Supply, after that it's electronics and low voltage

Your better off learning about it yourself from the start, if you have to rebuilt parts of the cab the rest I wouldn't worry about as you can get plenty of advice from here

Think I would start by taking some photo's of where your at and uploading here.

Get some others with Upright cabs to take photo's of the inside to help with the wiring, specially if there Ireland built cabs with same psu setup.

You could fit LCD but I would consider it Temp job to get it running with aim to fit CRT when you can

If you have issues with it in the future you will have learnt most of the things you need to know rebuilding it yourself

 

[mlynn]

Does anyone know of a replacement coin door with exact dimensions for Outrun please? This is so that the stripe stickers and everything line up exactly. Thanks in advance.

 

[mlynn]

I have a new door panel, front and side support brackets and matting. All good. I also have a new switching power supply which should allow my friend to bench test it before I do further work on the cabinet.

I have examined the wiring loom and I am a bit concerned:
1. The previous owner put a coin credit controller on which is rated at 12V, but I understand that Outrun only uses 5V from the Switching power supply. Could that have put strain on the old switching PSU and damaged it? This is connected to the wiring loom via a 9-pin (3x3) connector. Is this the correct entry point to wire up a credit button?

2. All the fuses are good except the one that is missing was for the marquee light, so I assume the marquee light has blown. Not a big problem as I intend to replace it with an LED light.

3. My machine contains an Atari Audio II Amplifier.

There are no rectifiers on my power supply board and only the 5V connected through the switching power supply, so how did the shaker and audio amplifier ever get enough power?

 

[Eddhorse]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

It is hard to tell from some of the pictures but you should check out some of the other Outrun restore threads on here.
Power supplies can be restored or replaced. The LCD will be a tricky replacement as you mentioned due to brackets and connectors and cables.
It will be easier to get replacement arcade monitor. All artwork can be reproduced by the Arcade Artshop.
https://www.arcadeartshop.com

It won't be easy but arcade machines never are. If you aren't up to the task then I would suggest selling this and getting a working driving game.

 

[beckscc2010]

If i remember well the atari audio 2 is also a 12vdc power amplifier?

 

[mlynn]

Thanks Becks, yes I think it could.
My switcher didn't have anything connected to the 12V DC so I was wondering how it could get a 12V supply at all? Also, the C220 coin mech also uses 12V and I believe the Green start button has a 6V bulb.

Is it permissible to use the 12V from the switcher? How are other cabs that use the Atari Audio 2 connected? I hope to check it out with an electrician in the coming weeks.

 

[nurtuo]

How are other cabs that use the Atari Audio 2 connected?

Are you saying your OutRun has an Atari Audio 2 fitted inside it?

 

[Denis]

I also have an OUTRUN arcade machine original standard version 1986. I have a broken chassis with a broken pin from the back of the monitor (it came out when removing the chassis). Its not supposed to but was corroded. I have been told it cant be repaired and the repair shop is reputable.

Anyone know where/how i could find a replacement CRT monitor?

 

[mlynn]

It is very hard to find CRT monitors these days. Would a VGA monitor or Trinitron CRT be suitable for example? Some are 15kHz. I heard that some SUN Microsystem monitors were rebadged Sony Trinitron. They were excellent but very heavy. They are bound to have had daily industrial use for a couple of years, but might still work and have had less use than Arcade Monitors.

I once read that Nanao monitors would stay bright forever whereas the later Samsung monitors that Sega used weren't as good.

I hope you kept the monitor. Could they find a replacement chassis for that monitor?

mlynn2022-10-06 23:32:29

 

[Denis]

Hi Mlynn,

Thanks for the feedback.

The Chassis was sent to a repair shop in Perth and hes v good and has a lot of experience with these machines. He said the tube is dead and the chassis was only compatible with that tube so hes looking for a complete replacement. The pins are part of the tube and moulded in the glass, usually if one comes out so does the tube vacuum, the pins cant be put back in.

Meanwhile yes i have kept everything.

 

[mlynn]

After many years I finally bit the bullet and got help from Graham at Unit Seven (in Scotland) with repairing my cab.

It's being converted to a MAME cabinet but I have kept all the original circuit boards, wiring loom, audio amplifier etc. The cost of recommissioning the power supplies and testing and repair of the circuit boards would be too expensive. There is still a lot of work to do but it's getting there.

I have updated my progress here with some pictures:

Outrun Restoration