Sega Rally 3 rebuild and conversion
- Thread starter Bods
- Start date
Got another piece of metal to sandblast so thought I might as well do these brackets, originals have quite a bit on rust on
Photos not brilliant, phone probably needs cleaning and with lights its rubbish but put them in the blackening stuff save painting them
Cut out and bent to fit over the top, not sure if this is what it shoule look like but it covers what it needs to so should be close, got holes drilled so it bolts in place and then gave it sandblast before welding the corners and gap on sides
Retroman839
Senior Member
Nice neat work 👍
I wouldn’t have known looks as good as any original part.
I wouldn’t have known looks as good as any original part.
Amazing job so far mate.
Well done.
The software side of things kicked my ass on a previous attempt, and I'm no slouch when it comes to PC stuff. I had random issues with graphics cards having to use a specific resolution from a specific port to run on a 31khz CRT, it took all the fun out of setting up the front end and became something I despised trying again.
The PC I used wasn't quite up to the task as well, not sure how much better mame is to play Ridge Racer these days, but when I tested it on a 3rd gen Intel i5, there was a bit of slowdown in places.
Well done.
The software side of things kicked my ass on a previous attempt, and I'm no slouch when it comes to PC stuff. I had random issues with graphics cards having to use a specific resolution from a specific port to run on a 31khz CRT, it took all the fun out of setting up the front end and became something I despised trying again.
The PC I used wasn't quite up to the task as well, not sure how much better mame is to play Ridge Racer these days, but when I tested it on a 3rd gen Intel i5, there was a bit of slowdown in places.
Cheers Mate
Yeah that's the hardest part really, getting everything to work can be a nightmare, LCD should help with setting up gfx side and most later games Sega rally onwards all look good.
Just working on controls now which shouldn't be too bad, just looking at altering wiring for it now, Pedals had thrown me as it needs separate pots connected to 1 axis but think I know now
looking at manual of SR3 now to sort wiring, be good to test it out playing SR3 on original cab in Teknoparrot
Boards arrived Monday which was perfect and quicker than I expected, an ebay purchase "Untested" from Bucharest
Looking at the few pictures on them online jumpers all same, plug in USB and NOTHING I don't like to think so many people are dishonest and just the minority so take a chance, wonder why they have a power connector if not used but then some are far more populated than others like the one Jollywest used in his machine so maybe for powering outputs or something
Had a search around net but not finding much, manuals for Global VR stuff don't even mention wiring for pedals, nothing on Jumpers either, so what is JP10 for?
Assume the leds near USB should light when connected to PC but nothing on them, so wasn't looking good, okay lets try and jumper on JP10 even though no one else seem to have one on
Bingo Bongo we have power
Then I instrall drivers and all good its shown in windows but last time I setup anything like game controllers it was on Windows XP so I couldn't where it shows it working and tested inputs, ah right its there lol under Game Controller Settings and not in Properties like old days so I connected up a 5k pot and test steering
Which all works, what a relief so need to test other inputs now but can't see it having issues
Looking at the few pictures on them online jumpers all same, plug in USB and NOTHING
I don't like to think so many people are dishonest and just the minority so take a chance, wonder why they have a power connector if not used but then some are far more populated than others like the one Jollywest used in his machine so maybe for powering outputs or something Had a search around net but not finding much, manuals for Global VR stuff don't even mention wiring for pedals, nothing on Jumpers either, so what is JP10 for?
Assume the leds near USB should light when connected to PC but nothing on them, so wasn't looking good, okay lets try and jumper on JP10 even though no one else seem to have one on
Bingo Bongo we have power
Then I instrall drivers and all good its shown in windows but last time I setup anything like game controllers it was on Windows XP so I couldn't where it shows it working and tested inputs, ah right its there lol under Game Controller Settings and not in Properties like old days so I connected up a 5k pot and test steering
Which all works, what a relief so need to test other inputs now but can't see it having issues
Okay I should have looked at the manual, it seems the cover I made should have a lip on the back that sits on the plastic the strip light shines through on the top, though I like how I've done it so it covers all the back on it and not an issue as I can always add a bit on slightly higher up to sit on the plastic
We need more buttons for all the games and before I start connecting them to I/O board, had a hunt for some spare buttons, not sure what I had left
Cool I have a spare fully populated board still but non have the coloured caps
But I have some on this panel with one burnt which happens to be blue which original panel has, how lucky
The older ones aren't PCB mounted so just swap over the top part
swapped over and switches all working
Cool I have a spare fully populated board still but non have the coloured caps
But I have some on this panel with one burnt which happens to be blue which original panel has, how lucky
The older ones aren't PCB mounted so just swap over the top part
swapped over and switches all working
The original board has 6 wires already which is pretty handy but they aren't wired to the 5 switches so I checked where they go, start is pin 7 ground for all on 12
the 3 on pins 1, 2 and 4 need to be in 8, 10 and 11
Now I need to sort out wiring all these up, the credit button and Handbrake
the 3 on pins 1, 2 and 4 need to be in 8, 10 and 11
Now I need to sort out wiring all these up, the credit button and Handbrake
Flyback2021
Active member
Looking Fantastic! Great job
Quite frustrating the other day, I thought weather good I'll get outside and get a new plate done for the buttons, nice bit of metal from my old fridge or freezer i scrapped and got cracking, using original 2 button one to get start and blue button done and then used the other plate with 4 buttons to do the rest
If holes don't quite align I just file it out to inside of red line and finish with step drill again and it was all good
at the point I'd finished it and fitted the buttons I thought you frickin idiot, the buttons are spaced out to far apart using the VR Racing one as template
Right I'll start again lol so I do the first part the same with original plate for first 2 then how do i align the other 3 as they need to be perfect for pcb to fit on back, okay I use the back of switches to draw around first
Brilliant, reason I did buttons first is its easier doing the holes when you have a bigger bit to hold, I tested out my new Makita drill to do all this also make sure batteries are okay, got this one done in record time before it gets dark
so then the next part of the frustration, nope not the pcb fitting on the back that aligns pretty good, but when I go to fit in the dash it doesn't go back all the way on right side, so problem is the connector on PCB that sticks out and stops it, so how did the original one fit in then? well because its only go the blue button it just bends the end of the pcb
So now I have to alter the connection of the board, that's quite a bodge for a sega cab to not give it enough space
If holes don't quite align I just file it out to inside of red line and finish with step drill again and it was all good
at the point I'd finished it and fitted the buttons I thought you frickin idiot, the buttons are spaced out to far apart using the VR Racing one as template
Right I'll start again lol so I do the first part the same with original plate for first 2 then how do i align the other 3 as they need to be perfect for pcb to fit on back, okay I use the back of switches to draw around first
Brilliant, reason I did buttons first is its easier doing the holes when you have a bigger bit to hold, I tested out my new Makita drill to do all this also make sure batteries are okay, got this one done in record time before it gets dark
so then the next part of the frustration, nope not the pcb fitting on the back that aligns pretty good, but when I go to fit in the dash it doesn't go back all the way on right side, so problem is the connector on PCB that sticks out and stops it, so how did the original one fit in then? well because its only go the blue button it just bends the end of the pcb
So now I have to alter the connection of the board, that's quite a bodge for a sega cab to not give it enough space
Well this has made up for the other day, I got the pedals and wheel connected up last week or before, tested out on need for speed PC games and working great, trouble is this board has combined pedals on one axis and when you try to setup Teknoparrot it doesn't work, someone saying model 2 emu is same as that needs separate pedals so bit of an issue
My later type immersion boards have the 2nd connector for accelerator and work separate so that will be okay but with a box already to check in the settings for separate it makes you think what if the other components are fitted but how many does it need because the firmware must be setup for it already so having seen page with links to Jollywest's board pics and others have mentioning the same idea, one says only needs Resistors R22/R72 but no mention of the values
Thanks to the big photo of fully populated board I can just about work out what they say
R72 105 so 1m and R22 243 24k is what it looked like to me with the bigger picture than below
and looking at the op amp LM324 and checking with meter where R22 and R72 go it connects to the same pins on the missing LM324 as the one present which go to R70 105 with yellow digits same and R14 243 so its right
Some hunting around my pile of old circuit boards from various stuff, I find an LM324 on old PC motherboard and the 2 resistors on some others boards
Working on my desk and couldn't find any of my tweezers or anything suitable so its not best job but solder the LM324 and resistors in place, got a 3 pin connector and plug and soldered that on and connected pot to Accelerator and Bingo Bongos it's working accelerator on Z axis in settings
So a rewire of the pedals on the cab with steering and brake on big connector and accelerator on the 3 pin
This is great news as were now cooking on Gas and Brake, time to test out Teknoparrot again and after setting things up right, configure the wheel and pedals I had a few goes on Sega Rally 3, Outrun SP and then Need For Speed High Stakes and all working perfectly so I don't need to worry about upgrading the board or anything now as it does what we need
Back to the switch plate issue again now
My later type immersion boards have the 2nd connector for accelerator and work separate so that will be okay but with a box already to check in the settings for separate it makes you think what if the other components are fitted but how many does it need because the firmware must be setup for it already so having seen page with links to Jollywest's board pics and others have mentioning the same idea, one says only needs Resistors R22/R72 but no mention of the values
Thanks to the big photo of fully populated board I can just about work out what they say
R72 105 so 1m and R22 243 24k is what it looked like to me with the bigger picture than below
and looking at the op amp LM324 and checking with meter where R22 and R72 go it connects to the same pins on the missing LM324 as the one present which go to R70 105 with yellow digits same and R14 243 so its right
Some hunting around my pile of old circuit boards from various stuff, I find an LM324 on old PC motherboard and the 2 resistors on some others boards
Working on my desk and couldn't find any of my tweezers or anything suitable so its not best job but solder the LM324 and resistors in place, got a 3 pin connector and plug and soldered that on and connected pot to Accelerator and Bingo Bongos it's working accelerator on Z axis in settings
So a rewire of the pedals on the cab with steering and brake on big connector and accelerator on the 3 pin
This is great news as were now cooking on Gas and Brake, time to test out Teknoparrot again and after setting things up right, configure the wheel and pedals I had a few goes on Sega Rally 3, Outrun SP and then Need For Speed High Stakes and all working perfectly so I don't need to worry about upgrading the board or anything now as it does what we need
Back to the switch plate issue again now
