Sega Rally 3 rebuild and conversion
- Thread starter Bods
- Start date
Flyback2021
Active member
Great progress !
heart in mouth I dared to rate the thread it seems like anything can happen when you go near those buttons !!
t but luckily outcome I wanted .
heart in mouth I dared to rate the thread it seems like anything can happen when you go near those buttons !!
t but luckily outcome I wanted .
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been able to desolder the connector on the switch panel and reverse it, luckily i can solder back this way, then reverse wires in connector so now it fits in the cab
You can see from them back to back how bent the pcb on original is because it doesn't fit in with connector in place but that can't happen when you have 5 switches so it wont fit
Does now though
Next I need to add 4 more wires to the connector and wire the grounds separate for this switch matrix setup
You can see from them back to back how bent the pcb on original is because it doesn't fit in with connector in place but that can't happen when you have 5 switches so it wont fit
Does now though
Next I need to add 4 more wires to the connector and wire the grounds separate for this switch matrix setup
Was trying to find a 2 pin socket to go on the rear fan but hadn't got this type, got 3 pin and bigger
Then I had a thought when I saw this connection further down, chop that one out and join it up and use socket for fan, bit of time but saves money
Job Done
Then I had a thought when I saw this connection further down, chop that one out and join it up and use socket for fan, bit of time but saves money
Job Done
I can see why others have used an Ipac for the buttons as it is a bit of a pain having to add all the extra earth wires, some have separate ones like handbrake but many are common ground like the shifter which has a 4 pin socket in connects too but not all the way
So I chopped the linked common
Already have spade connector and wire is just right length to go to 4 pin connector, pin from spare connector soldered on and done
Just a shame it then goes to a 3 pin connector not far after this one, nothing made easy, time to copy the fan resolver and remove it from the equation
So I chopped the linked common
Already have spade connector and wire is just right length to go to 4 pin connector, pin from spare connector soldered on and done
Just a shame it then goes to a 3 pin connector not far after this one, nothing made easy, time to copy the fan resolver and remove it from the equation
Connector erased and pin and black wire from another spare connector to get it further down to cab base
Managed to feed the single wire through the cable ties which saves cutting them all and using new ones but then we get to the main connector in the base which has no spare connections, so I used spade connector so this can be unplugged with the main one so shifter wires sorted, handbrake and start button ready to connect to the board
Managed to feed the single wire through the cable ties which saves cutting them all and using new ones but then we get to the main connector in the base which has no spare connections, so I used spade connector so this can be unplugged with the main one so shifter wires sorted, handbrake and start button ready to connect to the board
Retroman839
Senior Member
If you need any more connecters
I might have them I got lots of spares 👍
I orderd a load and didnt uses em .. on my vts in the end as just got by with others I had ..
Amp up & Jst..
I might have them I got lots of spares 👍
I orderd a load and didnt uses em .. on my vts in the end as just got by with others I had ..
Amp up & Jst..
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I think were okay cheers anyway matey, not much more to do wiring wise, got all the buttons connected apart from Credit. the Shifter and handbrake done so when SR3 running now it's like playing it an original well will be when the FFB is powered up, that's next job and coin tower if I can find some metal to fix it on with
Retroman839
Senior Member
Cool ..
Good progress ..
For coin box
Is it not normally bolted on ?
Good progress ..
For coin box
Is it not normally bolted on ?
Didn't find any other free metal over weekend but I got some literally the week before, slightly thinner would have been ideal but this will do
Pizza Boxes keep coming in handy for templates
Bolted on the side frame it will look good when painted black, hole for cables to coin tower
I knew these bolts would come in handy at some point, from an old metal framed chair I think, perfect so no big nuts sticking out the back
Pizza Boxes keep coming in handy for templates
Bolted on the side frame it will look good when painted black, hole for cables to coin tower
I knew these bolts would come in handy at some point, from an old metal framed chair I think, perfect so no big nuts sticking out the back
Had a move about of the boards to fit things in, took ones out no longer needed, and added a 24v psu I had lying around to power the Force Feedback, it had 24V psu's like one for audio amp, non of them high enought powered for the FFB which backs up what Andygeezer was saying about the lame Original FFB boards in these cabs as it only 150w psu for it which is half the amps required for this board, it's got 10amps of industrial psu in it now lol, could do with a cover over it though
Connected up and tested but something not right when FFB enabled, it was throwing the wheel either left or right when you turn it off center, could only assume it's the motor connected wrong way round, no where can I find which way it should connect, connector with purple wire (24v +) input to FFB board is on left, I had just connected the original connector how it was which is wrong way, it needs the Purple which goes to Motor Red wire on left side same as input, now it's working perfect, so I tested it out on The Need For Speed Underground for a bit, machine is working awesome on this
Had a few of the Need For Speed games in late 90s and think I got a demo of Underground, was blown away with it at the time, was amazing for 2003, Last time I had a proper go on it was years back with the first FFB PC wheel I bought, Thrustmaster Ferrari one I think which was quite good but Wheel clampled to desk and having to chase the pedals around the floor got a bit annoying but it was also great on System16 emu with outrun and FFB plugin, also Chase HQ on Raine Emulator
So playing this on a decent arcade cab with quality wheel and pedals and decent seat setup was pretty good fun
Of course I'm driving Honda and winning brings back some good memories playing this again
Connected up and tested but something not right when FFB enabled, it was throwing the wheel either left or right when you turn it off center, could only assume it's the motor connected wrong way round, no where can I find which way it should connect, connector with purple wire (24v +) input to FFB board is on left, I had just connected the original connector how it was which is wrong way, it needs the Purple which goes to Motor Red wire on left side same as input, now it's working perfect, so I tested it out on The Need For Speed Underground for a bit, machine is working awesome on this
Had a few of the Need For Speed games in late 90s and think I got a demo of Underground, was blown away with it at the time, was amazing for 2003, Last time I had a proper go on it was years back with the first FFB PC wheel I bought, Thrustmaster Ferrari one I think which was quite good but Wheel clampled to desk and having to chase the pedals around the floor got a bit annoying but it was also great on System16 emu with outrun and FFB plugin, also Chase HQ on Raine Emulator
So playing this on a decent arcade cab with quality wheel and pedals and decent seat setup was pretty good fun
Of course I'm driving Honda
and winning brings back some good memories playing this again
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