Shinobi System 16B Fix Log

smarty

Ready Player One
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Well done Chris, good work.
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dj_yt

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So in the end, I replaced:

Desuicide

1 x 68K Processor

2 x EPROMs

Fix Graphics Problems

2 x EPROMs

1 x SRAM

Fix Sound

1 x YM2151

1 x YM3012 (Unnecessary)

final_pcb.jpg


Things I'm still finding tough:




I still find desoldering difficult, unless I snip the legs of the old ICs and pull the pins out one by one. This isn't a problem when the old chips are duff. But it's a bit of a shame when you're uncertain whether a component is broken.

Is this my cheapo Duratool station, or do I just need more practice? I'm getting better, but it still feels more difficult than it should. If I had a Hakko, would the components just drop out, rather than requiring a few rounds of solder/suck/solder/suck/tug!?

dj_yt2016-01-17 18:31:11
 

RGP

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My own advice on de-soldering would be:

1) Apply new solder to the pins to be desoldered first

2) Clamp the board in a vertical position

3) Place nozzle of desolder tool over pin - touching one side of the leg

4) Squeeze trigger and hold for a second or two moving the nozzle around the leg to ensure all the solder is removed.

5) Repeat from 3 for all pins involved.

6) Hold board up to light, if you can see light through both sides try wiggling the pin with your finger.

7) If persistent, clamp board vertical, apply heat with soldering iron on leg on other side of board while desoldering on solder side with tool.

duratool de-soldering rigs are not the best in the world but they will do the job - keep the nozzle cleared using a reaming tool and keep the tip clean.

Theoretically the chip should either press out from the reverse side or be easily wiggled out with a pair of angle nosed pliers - don't exert much force doing it this way as you can lift traces easily on some boards.

Get a second hand Metcal SP440 or Hakko and change all the filters on it and you'll have a better experience.

If you get a really persistent pin - take a break and let the board cool, then apply lots of solder to that pin and then desolder - it should clear out.

I went through this trouble, I generally can remove all IC's without snipping pins so I can test them out of circuit.
 

dj_yt

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That's a good summary and is pretty much what I do, with the exception of the PCB holder. Did you buy one from somewhere, or did you Macgyver a solution?

I'll keep an eye out for a second hand Hakko I think.
 
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