Retroman839
Senior Member
Snk game converted to capcom
Not sure what this is ?
Also will this need a snk to jamma ?
I have tried the capcom classics to jamma but not getting anything ?
Snk convert to capcom ?
- Thread starter Retroman839
- Start date
Snk game converted to capcom
Not sure what this is ?
Also will this need a snk to jamma ?
I have tried the capcom classics to jamma but not getting anything ?
Retroman839
Senior Member
Bottom left corner
Retroman839
Senior Member
1942 \ Vulgus is its own pinout ?
Not capcom classic ?
Not capcom classic ?
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I don't know. Have you considered that the board is dead? Anyway a conversion to galaga X with C64 Music is something I'd go for.
EDIT** I just checked, 1942 and capcom classic are complete different. The Powersupply should have go in short circuit protection. So your board might not be fried.
EDIT** I just checked, 1942 and capcom classic are complete different. The Powersupply should have go in short circuit protection. So your board might not be fried.
Retroman839
Senior Member
I really do like glaga ..
I hope not fried nothing happend no heat or smoke or anything ..
I looked .. looks like I would have sent 5v some the ground .. not 😌 good.
No sign of any thing not going to know
Until I get the right adaptor
I hope not fried nothing happend no heat or smoke or anything ..
I looked .. looks like I would have sent 5v some the ground .. not 😌 good.
No sign of any thing not going to know
Until I get the right adaptor
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Ah Haaa!! You just invented a new topic theme …….
“”SUNDAY CONFESSIONS”” It could end up being a very popular read ??
To be fair the 1980s was an awful time for game companies using non standard edge connection and not all on flat finger style either … like the ones with molex O P Q pin plugs
we bought brand new licenced identical jamma pcbs with close or consecutive serial numbers where a couple of odd ones didn’t have the pin 7 ‘idiot key’ removed (world cup90) so not all solid finger edges mean bootleg !
“”SUNDAY CONFESSIONS”” It could end up being a very popular read ??
To be fair the 1980s was an awful time for game companies using non standard edge connection and not all on flat finger style either … like the ones with molex O P Q pin plugs
we bought brand new licenced identical jamma pcbs with close or consecutive serial numbers where a couple of odd ones didn’t have the pin 7 ‘idiot key’ removed (world cup90) so not all solid finger edges mean bootleg !
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Retroman839
Senior Member
I’m going to make my own ..
I mean I f**+++*d up puttin Capcom Classic on it .. I feel I owe it to it now
And only adapter I can find is in oz!
( Austrália not the other place
If you are not sure of the pinout of a PCB you can find the +5V and GND pins of the edge connector with a multimeter.
Use an LS chip on the PCB find which parts of the edge connector are power since you know which pins on an LS are +5 and GND.
I've made adapters for completely unknown PCBs by using this method then using an oscilloscope to find the video output.
Use an LS chip on the PCB find which parts of the edge connector are power since you know which pins on an LS are +5 and GND.
I've made adapters for completely unknown PCBs by using this method then using an oscilloscope to find the video output.
Retroman839
Senior Member
Cool
Retroman839
Senior Member
Nothing like that happend ..
So I’m hoping he’s ok
Retroman839
Senior Member
Where would that shotkkey Ls chip be located usually ? Directly from the 5v+ line in from jamma edge ?
And if I did short 5v to ground would it most likely be this little guy that would have taken the hit ?
Does this ls have protection shut down built into it ?
LS is simply any 74LS?? logic chips that are all over the PCB.
Looking at your PCB there are two 20 pin LS chips next to the DIP switches near the edge connector.
On a 20 pin LS chip GND will always be pin 10 and +5V will always be pin 20. Just set your multimeter to continuity then put one probe on pin 10 of the LS chip and use the other probe to find the pins on the edge connector that are connected directly to that. Those will be the GND pins.
Then do the same with pin 20 of the LS to find the edge connector pins that are +5V.
Looking at your PCB there are two 20 pin LS chips next to the DIP switches near the edge connector.
On a 20 pin LS chip GND will always be pin 10 and +5V will always be pin 20. Just set your multimeter to continuity then put one probe on pin 10 of the LS chip and use the other probe to find the pins on the edge connector that are connected directly to that. Those will be the GND pins.
Then do the same with pin 20 of the LS to find the edge connector pins that are +5V.
Retroman839
Senior Member
Thx lurch
Will do this after work .
Looking at the pinout my 5v from the capcom classic jamma converter
Went down the …. Gnd (12v+ ).
Any ideas on the severity of this ?
And I don’t understand the gnd (12v+ ?
Why the ground is 12v+ in brackets ?
Just to add …The ground & 5v rails are usually the huge tracks running round the top and bottom edges of the pcb and have a branch rail to every chip in each row of ICS …. and once you have 5v and gnd from the 74****** chips and video ((if it has life?)) the colours don’t matter if they are mixed up as blue sky might just appear red etc sync and a colour mixed up usually just gives fine vertical hold appearance ?
Get a croc clip probe wire and just as a precaution put say 150 ohm resister in series with its clip .. clip it to a known gnd point ….
If you have video on screen great! But probing with a multimeter first identify all edge fingers that have approx 5v
Using your home made resistive probe just run along the fingers the only one that should react is coin credit (or perhaps service/test) mark that one and while you only have a single credit the only one to react will be player one start…. Player two start found with 2 or more credits on screen. From there you should be able to also find left right up down for both players (often back to back on some older boards) same for jump, shoot, bomb etc.
The control panel button switches just ground these outputs under normal use so probing with a resisted wire just as precaution probably won’t do any harm if it hits a more live pin ?
12 v is related to to sound section on the pcb and usually 5v 12v and -5v will have beefier traces to the finger edge too..
Finally speaker one side to ground often works and you don’t have many vacant pins left - especially running tracks towards the amplifier of volume pot ?
One edge connector wired to suit if all goes well ! ? But it does help if the pcb generates some sort of picture on screen obviously…. Hope that helps any novice newbies on here ? Take care when doing this anyway but it’s better than working blind and connecting in error !
Some edge fingers have multiple random placed ground points eg for video gnd or other extra gnd wires find them with a multimeter to the main ground pads and note where they are it saves overloading the ground pins on the loom plug with more wires than necessary ..
Any unused pins now are maybe metering outputs or perhaps not used anyway or maybe for second or third coin entry values on some old boards ( most later boards have just one credit input and depend on an associated credit pcb at the coin mech )
Get a croc clip probe wire and just as a precaution put say 150 ohm resister in series with its clip .. clip it to a known gnd point ….
If you have video on screen great! But probing with a multimeter first identify all edge fingers that have approx 5v
Using your home made resistive probe just run along the fingers the only one that should react is coin credit (or perhaps service/test) mark that one and while you only have a single credit the only one to react will be player one start…. Player two start found with 2 or more credits on screen. From there you should be able to also find left right up down for both players (often back to back on some older boards) same for jump, shoot, bomb etc.
The control panel button switches just ground these outputs under normal use so probing with a resisted wire just as precaution probably won’t do any harm if it hits a more live pin ?
12 v is related to to sound section on the pcb and usually 5v 12v and -5v will have beefier traces to the finger edge too..
Finally speaker one side to ground often works and you don’t have many vacant pins left - especially running tracks towards the amplifier of volume pot ?
One edge connector wired to suit if all goes well ! ? But it does help if the pcb generates some sort of picture on screen obviously…. Hope that helps any novice newbies on here ? Take care when doing this anyway but it’s better than working blind and connecting in error !
Some edge fingers have multiple random placed ground points eg for video gnd or other extra gnd wires find them with a multimeter to the main ground pads and note where they are it saves overloading the ground pins on the loom plug with more wires than necessary ..
Any unused pins now are maybe metering outputs or perhaps not used anyway or maybe for second or third coin entry values on some old boards ( most later boards have just one credit input and depend on an associated credit pcb at the coin mech )
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Retroman839
Senior Member
Iv matched the jamma pinout pins to the 2 diffrent jamma converters
And it seems that is the only clash off possible harmful volt pins